Hi everyone,
I’m currently in the planning phase of building high-end floorstanding speakers and would love to get some advice from the community to make the right decision.
My Situation:
I have a relatively large and open living room, roughly 8m x 9m (72m²) which will serve as my main listening room. Due to layout and placement constraints, I can’t pull the speakers more than 1.5 feet (~45cm) from the front wall. So rear-ported designs are not ideal, I’m focusing only on front-ported or sealed floorstanders that can perform well close to the wall.
After extensive research on Troels Gravesen’s site, I’ve shortlisted the following designs that meet the above criteria:
It doesn’t have to be a Troels design as long as the project is well-documented, uses premium drivers (Scan-Speak, SBA, Accuton, or higher), and the total cost remains under €5,000 for the complete build (minus the cab of course). I'm open to recommendations from other designers or kits, provided there’s enough guidance to ensure a solid build.
Thanks in advance!
Awni
Attaching a photo of my living room, which is currently under renovation. there’s no door on that wall, it's just being repainted but the speakers will be placed in front of that wall basically.
I’m currently in the planning phase of building high-end floorstanding speakers and would love to get some advice from the community to make the right decision.
My Situation:
I have a relatively large and open living room, roughly 8m x 9m (72m²) which will serve as my main listening room. Due to layout and placement constraints, I can’t pull the speakers more than 1.5 feet (~45cm) from the front wall. So rear-ported designs are not ideal, I’m focusing only on front-ported or sealed floorstanders that can perform well close to the wall.
After extensive research on Troels Gravesen’s site, I’ve shortlisted the following designs that meet the above criteria:
- Illuminator-5
- Illuminator-4
- Jenzen Illuminator
- Jenzen NEXT T29
- SBA-10
- NEXT-4
- ATS-4
It doesn’t have to be a Troels design as long as the project is well-documented, uses premium drivers (Scan-Speak, SBA, Accuton, or higher), and the total cost remains under €5,000 for the complete build (minus the cab of course). I'm open to recommendations from other designers or kits, provided there’s enough guidance to ensure a solid build.
Questions:
- Which of the Troels designs listed (or others) would work best for my room size and placement constraints?
- Any particular models with especially strong imaging, sound staging?
- Thoughts on the differences between the Jenzen designs vs. SBA-10/NEXT-4, especially in a large room?
- Any non-Troels projects I should seriously consider under this budget?
Thanks in advance!
Awni
Attaching a photo of my living room, which is currently under renovation. there’s no door on that wall, it's just being repainted but the speakers will be placed in front of that wall basically.
Attachments
One: I envy you that large room!
Two: the large windows and the stone floor are both very hard surfaces that needs to be taken care of regarding reflections.
There is a German magazine Klang & Ton with 6 issues/year that has several such speakers with complete measurements, crossover values and so on
Here is a list
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/kit_journal_klang_und_ton_en.htm
and there is Hobby HiFI as well
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/kit_journal_hobby_hifi_en.htm#floorstandung
Or if you want to blow that glass wall to the next postal district
https://www.hifikit.se/hogtalare/golvhogtalare/jubel.html
Two: the large windows and the stone floor are both very hard surfaces that needs to be taken care of regarding reflections.
There is a German magazine Klang & Ton with 6 issues/year that has several such speakers with complete measurements, crossover values and so on
Here is a list
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/kit_journal_klang_und_ton_en.htm
and there is Hobby HiFI as well
https://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/kit_journal_hobby_hifi_en.htm#floorstandung
Or if you want to blow that glass wall to the next postal district
https://www.hifikit.se/hogtalare/golvhogtalare/jubel.html
Larger room means bigger acoustic problems no? 😆
Reaaaally interesting stuff here, a lot of closed options.
Hoolyyy Molly, haven't seen this one before, this is Swedish based I am assuming?
Thanks mate
To aid with your own selection: https://diyspeakerdb.com/
You can filter for Floor-standing speakers only, and also by box size.
You can filter for Floor-standing speakers only, and also by box size.
You can see the floorplan here, and basic designs. But yeah I will also get some acoustic treatments, nothing fancy though.
Attachments
Hi, I don’t get the feeling that you have been to hifi shows or the like to listen to some systems. I would recommend to first find out what kind of speakers you like, and then shortlist suitable DIY projects that go down that path.
Eg high efficiency (horn/coax) vs lower efficiency box speakers, open baffle or electrostatic/ribbon speakers, full rangers etc
The music genres you listed all have relatively low complexity so not sure if electrostats or highly resolving but low efficiency column speakers are the most satisfying bets. If I had such a big room, I would seriously consider getting myself a 15” tannoy, monitor gold or newer, and build an appropriately sized (200-300l) enclosure for it. Or a MEH with a sub, eg Scott Hinson’s design. Or Perry Marshall’s largest effort, I think that’s the Bitches Brew. But point source speakers really do have something.
This is not to say that I don’t like my just completed OSMCs. They are rear ported but work rather well with 20cm space against a tightly packed bookshelf. So the tower version of it is also a recommendation. I don’t think your placement constraint rules out rear ported speakers as long as they are not placed into the corner. But if I had your amount of space, I would go for a speaker that only works there. So 15” tannoy it is. Or if Troels, then The Loudspeaker 1/2.
Eg high efficiency (horn/coax) vs lower efficiency box speakers, open baffle or electrostatic/ribbon speakers, full rangers etc
The music genres you listed all have relatively low complexity so not sure if electrostats or highly resolving but low efficiency column speakers are the most satisfying bets. If I had such a big room, I would seriously consider getting myself a 15” tannoy, monitor gold or newer, and build an appropriately sized (200-300l) enclosure for it. Or a MEH with a sub, eg Scott Hinson’s design. Or Perry Marshall’s largest effort, I think that’s the Bitches Brew. But point source speakers really do have something.
This is not to say that I don’t like my just completed OSMCs. They are rear ported but work rather well with 20cm space against a tightly packed bookshelf. So the tower version of it is also a recommendation. I don’t think your placement constraint rules out rear ported speakers as long as they are not placed into the corner. But if I had your amount of space, I would go for a speaker that only works there. So 15” tannoy it is. Or if Troels, then The Loudspeaker 1/2.
Looks good, though I would move everything a bit to the left.
Treatments don't need to be fancy, just effective.
My new room is great, in fact it's the best I've ever had, without any treatment.
It does have wall to wall carpet.
@maximax77 You’re absolutely right, I haven’t attended many hi-fi shows, but I’ve spent time in a few specialized stores in the region. That was enough to get me hooked on some top-tier brands. The ribbon tweeters on the Borresen Z2 Cryo, for example, completely blew me away… had me seriously considering selling a kidney 😂
As for efficiency, I’m not too concerned. I’ve set aside around €10K for a solid Class A amp with plenty of headroom, so I’m not limited to high-efficiency designs.
In my case, I’m leaning toward low-efficiency, multi-way designs. I’d absolutely love to build something with a good ribbon tweeter, but unfortunately, none of the Troels models I listed use one. He does speak very highly of the Viawave GRT-145W-4, but I haven’t seen it used in any of his floorstanders.
Really appreciate your input, super helpful stuff 🙏
As for efficiency, I’m not too concerned. I’ve set aside around €10K for a solid Class A amp with plenty of headroom, so I’m not limited to high-efficiency designs.
I completely agree with your point, it’s best to first figure out the kind of sound you’re drawn to, then find DIY designs that follow that same philosophy.
In my case, I’m leaning toward low-efficiency, multi-way designs. I’d absolutely love to build something with a good ribbon tweeter, but unfortunately, none of the Troels models I listed use one. He does speak very highly of the Viawave GRT-145W-4, but I haven’t seen it used in any of his floorstanders.
Really appreciate your input, super helpful stuff 🙏
Not well documented but these were built for a room at least double yours in size and they are working very well. 4-way OB bass + monopole >1.5khz, active.
My point about efficiency is not so much about required amplifier wattage but more about sound. Higher efficiency designs tend to sound more lively and involving, but may or may not have linearity and neutrality issues. Not everyone prefers neutrality though, especially with Jazz and Rock.
The impedance curve of the speaker is probably more critical for amp-speaker interplay once there are enough watts for a given efficiency, but watts are cheap these days. Many commercial high end designs, think Wilson, B&W et all, have very difficult impedance curves which will sharply constrain your amp choices. Not sure if your budgets, 5k for the speaker and 10k for the amp, make sense. The speakers have the biggest sound impact. The amp only needs to work well with the speaker. If you diy it, 1-2k is the maximum you can spend on a solid state amp. Otherwise, just buy used. 5k will do though for all but the most expensive diy speaker projects.
The impedance curve of the speaker is probably more critical for amp-speaker interplay once there are enough watts for a given efficiency, but watts are cheap these days. Many commercial high end designs, think Wilson, B&W et all, have very difficult impedance curves which will sharply constrain your amp choices. Not sure if your budgets, 5k for the speaker and 10k for the amp, make sense. The speakers have the biggest sound impact. The amp only needs to work well with the speaker. If you diy it, 1-2k is the maximum you can spend on a solid state amp. Otherwise, just buy used. 5k will do though for all but the most expensive diy speaker projects.
@maximax77
Oh I get your point now.
Also for clarification, the 10k is for source+DAC+amp, my bad should've been more clear.
Oh I get your point now.
Also for clarification, the 10k is for source+DAC+amp, my bad should've been more clear.
That's a lovely setup!
Is that big glass window a problem?
Also, can we talk about that view? Can I retire next door? 😢
Never buy such expensive equipment without a home trial, with no obligation to purchase anything. You are paying for the sound.
Preferably borrow two different amps at the same time, so you can compare them on the exact speakers you would use.
A local dealer should be more than willing to loan you his demo amps, given the amount of money involved.
That said, buying speakers unheard (DIY or not) can have unexpected results, often not good, even if there are good reviews.
Preferably borrow two different amps at the same time, so you can compare them on the exact speakers you would use.
A local dealer should be more than willing to loan you his demo amps, given the amount of money involved.
That said, buying speakers unheard (DIY or not) can have unexpected results, often not good, even if there are good reviews.
A friend of mine just bought the Aavik U-280, can definitely borrow it and I can check with a couple of hifi stores here as well.
Heissmann Acoustics is definitely well documented too 👍
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/dxt-wave-xl-fusion/
https://heissmann-acoustics.de/en/dxt-wave-xl-fusion/
Hi there,
i have taken a look at your number one selection in your first post
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Illuminator-5.htm
i like the 5 way idea, to run every drive unit only in a small frequency range where the drive unit can perform at his best, but the DIY challenges in woodwork and even the soldering of the passive crossover are huge
all in all in my experience of over 40 years of DIY audio the game changer was the room correction with Dirac Live
hope it helps, Stefano
i have taken a look at your number one selection in your first post
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Illuminator-5.htm
i like the 5 way idea, to run every drive unit only in a small frequency range where the drive unit can perform at his best, but the DIY challenges in woodwork and even the soldering of the passive crossover are huge
all in all in my experience of over 40 years of DIY audio the game changer was the room correction with Dirac Live
hope it helps, Stefano