I've been trying to figure out why there's car amplifiers that use 12-16vdc and produce 1,000+ watts rms easily but there's no easy solution to power class d amps boards in a car? I want to be able to power some class d amplifiers that require 32-36vdc in my car. If a car amplifier can do it why aren't there any power supplies available to boost 12v to 36v for this purpose? The only things I've seen even close to working are the cheap boost converters on eBay, Amazon, and AliExpress but the quality, lack of directions, and even worse the believability of the specs are less than ideal. I would have tried them anyway if I thought there was a chance they would work without introducing noise or other headaches.
Hi,
Looking at the specs, these models from Amazon should be ok for $59.99.
12 to 48V / 10A - 480W.
I don't have experience with them, I just searched the web.
Application:
12V DC battery as input power to 48V DC appliances as output load.
Specifications:
Input Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Input Voltage Range: 10V-16 DC
Output voltage: 48V DC
Output Current: 10 Amp
Output Rated Power: 480W
Efficiency: 97% (half load); 95% (full load)
Weight: 550g
Features:
1. 100% full power and stable current output, non-isolated module.
2. Industry grade DC 12V to DC 48V step up converter, efficiency up to 95%.
3. Die-cast aluminum shell, epoxy potting, cooling by free air convection; Waterproof level IP68 and anti-shock protection.
4. Protections: Over-current, Over-voltage, Over-temperature, Over-load and Short-circuit, auto-recovery when device is back to normal operating.
5. Certificates: CE/RoHS, 1 year warranty, lifetime up to 100,000 hours.
Package included:
1 x DC 12V-48V 10A Step up Converter
https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Conve...verter+step+up+12v+to+48v,aps,180&sr=8-6&th=1
Looking at the specs, these models from Amazon should be ok for $59.99.
12 to 48V / 10A - 480W.
I don't have experience with them, I just searched the web.
Application:
12V DC battery as input power to 48V DC appliances as output load.
Specifications:
Input Rated Voltage: 12V DC
Input Voltage Range: 10V-16 DC
Output voltage: 48V DC
Output Current: 10 Amp
Output Rated Power: 480W
Efficiency: 97% (half load); 95% (full load)
Weight: 550g
Features:
1. 100% full power and stable current output, non-isolated module.
2. Industry grade DC 12V to DC 48V step up converter, efficiency up to 95%.
3. Die-cast aluminum shell, epoxy potting, cooling by free air convection; Waterproof level IP68 and anti-shock protection.
4. Protections: Over-current, Over-voltage, Over-temperature, Over-load and Short-circuit, auto-recovery when device is back to normal operating.
5. Certificates: CE/RoHS, 1 year warranty, lifetime up to 100,000 hours.
Package included:
1 x DC 12V-48V 10A Step up Converter
https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Conve...verter+step+up+12v+to+48v,aps,180&sr=8-6&th=1
48v is too much I need a max of 36vdc. I'm also very suspect of the claimed 95% efficiency. That seems pretty small to output 480 watts as well. If it did close to that I assume I could fry an egg on it.
Look at LED drivers and similar from Meanwell and their competitors.
40 WRMS is enough in a car.
1000W is absurd, unless it is PMPO.
And you need to listen to traffic, ambulances and so on, so the sound level should not be too high.
You can also buy 12-110V converters intended for RVs, and use that to power whatever yo need, use mains operated equipment.
I am not responsible if that breaks your local laws.
40 WRMS is enough in a car.
1000W is absurd, unless it is PMPO.
And you need to listen to traffic, ambulances and so on, so the sound level should not be too high.
You can also buy 12-110V converters intended for RVs, and use that to power whatever yo need, use mains operated equipment.
I am not responsible if that breaks your local laws.
My subwoofer amplifier delivers 1000 watts RMS and my 4 channel amplifier is 400 watts rms in my truck. I feel like I could use more power. No laws broken here
I'm trying to find a way to use a few class d amp boards to have at least 6 maybe 8 channels and run an active system.
I'm trying to find a way to use a few class d amp boards to have at least 6 maybe 8 channels and run an active system.
1000W RMS is like 85 Amps, add 400W is like 35 Amps.
That is 120 Amps total. Pretty hefty supply needed.
Buy a supply that can drive an RV oven, should work for you.
Are you deaf?
You run that at full volume?
That is 120 Amps total. Pretty hefty supply needed.
Buy a supply that can drive an RV oven, should work for you.
Are you deaf?
You run that at full volume?
I have an ammeter that reads up to 100 amps and have maxed that out before. I usually run it around 60 amps at 14.2v. I have 0awg wiring, 2 batteries, and a high output alternator. I am only getting about 90db volume from it before it starts to sound bad.
90 dB off 1400 Watts in a car / truck...something is off.
Check the speakers and wires thoroughly.
And also the amplifiers.
I expected at least 130 dB at full power.
Check the speakers and wires thoroughly.
And also the amplifiers.
I expected at least 130 dB at full power.
Is having hearing damage instantly a worthwhile goal? Seems contradictory with the audio hobby in a way.
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What???
On the serious side look at speakers with better sensitivity ratings.
90 dB is rather poor for power used.
In a small/med car cabin a 90 dB rated speaker does that with = 1 watt
likely more with cabin gain.
On the serious side look at speakers with better sensitivity ratings.
90 dB is rather poor for power used.
In a small/med car cabin a 90 dB rated speaker does that with = 1 watt
likely more with cabin gain.
Never mind man, some of us have extensive background with higher end car audio. I have felt for the past 25yrs that my JL W7 sub hanging of a series 1 1000/1 could really do with another 1kwrms. Recently acquired a Taramps 2k2R monobloc and a new driver but will be installed after we change car. Not everyone gets the issues with the iron law and having to tug on the power arm to lower the size arm of the law, or how it relates to a driver's sensitivity and efficiency when designed to create the lowest of lows at realistic levels when having shoebox spaces to work with. 82 to 85dB rated drivers are nice honest indicators of quality low and loud performers, but they do demand power to get working
To the topic, Ali has some solid 1800w upsteppers in both module form and fully built PSUs. They also supply details of transistor count and even schematics on some so the knowing types on here could get a good study of them before buying. Easy site to search on but difficult to link to due to regional offering issues
You can choose the 36V option. It's even cheaper ($37.19).
Switch mode DC-DC is something naturally small and efficient - 94% is the normal for this type of product when operated at maximum power.
I've built some switching DC-DC circuits and this is what you get.
The 10A model below will deliver 360W. With 6% loss, it will dissipate 21.6W.
And listening to music, the average power will be much less than that.
1:4, 1:5 or even higher is the expected average to peak power proportion if not clipping.
So, if you use the maximum peak of 360W, the average will be something around 70 to 90W.
In this case, dissipation will be around 7 to 9W, assuming 90% efficiency, since when using the DC-DC with less power, efficiency drops (I don't have the exact curve for this product so 90% it's just an example).
On the other hand, if this DC-DC converter product fails, you can return it - the manufacturer must respond for the product it offers to the market.
I've found that what specs are on paper rarely work in the real world as you expect. My front speakers are 92db sensitivity and the rears are 90db. I'm saying that the quality of the music goes down after around 90db loudness not that it makes out at that. I haven't measured how loud it will actually play because it's too loud and I don't want to damage anything pushing it.
I've found that what specs are on paper rarely work in the real world as you expect. My front speakers are 92db sensitivity and the rears are 90db. I'm saying that the quality of the music goes down after around 90db loudness not that it makes out at that. I haven't measured how loud it will actually play because it's too loud and I don't want to damage anythig. I've found that it's best to not play an amplifier close to its rms rating and if you need 100w rms than get a 150 or better yet a 200 watt rms rated amp. I think that the tpa3255 amplifiers sound better than any car 4 channel amp that I have heard and pack a lot of power in a tiny package. I'd like to be able to hide smaller amplifier boards in the dash or in door panels close to the speakers they will be powering.
If you use an amplifier that's not specifically designed to be used in a car, you need to get a power supply that has an isolated/floating secondary.
Why not build your own supply?
Or buy one of the cheap chinese class D clones (of Brazilian design) and use its power supply.
High SPL is more about the tactile sensation than hearing anything more at high volume. The ears have an x-max just like a speaker so at high volume, you're not really hearing anything but distortion.
Low frequencies at high SPL isn't nearly as dangerous as higher frequencies. A train horn at 150dB at your ears would be dangerous. 150dB at the 40-50Hz range does nothing to your hearing. I know people who have listened to 140dB+ levels day after day and hear the same as anyone else.
Why not build your own supply?
Or buy one of the cheap chinese class D clones (of Brazilian design) and use its power supply.
High SPL is more about the tactile sensation than hearing anything more at high volume. The ears have an x-max just like a speaker so at high volume, you're not really hearing anything but distortion.
Low frequencies at high SPL isn't nearly as dangerous as higher frequencies. A train horn at 150dB at your ears would be dangerous. 150dB at the 40-50Hz range does nothing to your hearing. I know people who have listened to 140dB+ levels day after day and hear the same as anyone else.
I had 125w rms x5 ( 35v rails )
8 inch sub tube in the trunk worked brilliantly. Xover at 60hz.
could've had more but didn't want to be deaf. Sounded fantastic so the desire to crank it up was there.
A 3.3 to 1 turns ratio 5 on pri 18 on sec will deliver 35v with TL494CN
8 inch sub tube in the trunk worked brilliantly. Xover at 60hz.
could've had more but didn't want to be deaf. Sounded fantastic so the desire to crank it up was there.
A 3.3 to 1 turns ratio 5 on pri 18 on sec will deliver 35v with TL494CN
That's what I thought and have heard before that I need an isolated supply which the boost converters are not. Why is that exactly? I have a spare cheap amplifier but it has 42 0 42 supply rails.
I guess that's why it's not popular to hear of people putting tpa3255s etc into vehicles. The lack of ready made power converters is astonishing. I've thought of using lithium batteries for them but then comes the issue of charging a 8s battery. It's hard to find many chargers that are capable of charging a 8s battery and the ones that do require mains power.