Hello,
I just started working on this project after putting it off for a few years. The idea is: Portable, battery powered, tube shaped, stereo, two way speaker with built in subwoofer, that you can carry with a shoulder strap. The sub will be Tang Band W5-1138SMF, but the rest of the drivers Im not sure. Even after hours of searching I wasnt able to find any affordable miniature two way with good reputation that also has both drivers easily buyable. Currently my only idea is to use Helium (Dayton ND91-4 and Dayton ND16FA-6) but Im worried that it wont be loud enough... or is that going to be a universal problem with small woofers?
All tips and insight would be much appreciated.
I just started working on this project after putting it off for a few years. The idea is: Portable, battery powered, tube shaped, stereo, two way speaker with built in subwoofer, that you can carry with a shoulder strap. The sub will be Tang Band W5-1138SMF, but the rest of the drivers Im not sure. Even after hours of searching I wasnt able to find any affordable miniature two way with good reputation that also has both drivers easily buyable. Currently my only idea is to use Helium (Dayton ND91-4 and Dayton ND16FA-6) but Im worried that it wont be loud enough... or is that going to be a universal problem with small woofers?
All tips and insight would be much appreciated.
still apllies today: Hofmann's Iron Law: three parameters that cannot all be had at the same time. They are low-bass reproduction, small (enclosure) size, and high (output) sensitivity." Hofmann stated that designers could pick two of these three parameters, but in doing so, it would compromise the third parameter.
WHat about 2x W5? end mounted on each side, mechanically link for push/psuh vib. cancellation. SImilar to the old *boom blasters' from back when.
And use fx. a faital 4FE35/42/44.
You will have gaiend a lot of output capability, but sub will have to play higher in freq.
WHat about 2x W5? end mounted on each side, mechanically link for push/psuh vib. cancellation. SImilar to the old *boom blasters' from back when.
And use fx. a faital 4FE35/42/44.
You will have gaiend a lot of output capability, but sub will have to play higher in freq.
But I don’t have any issues with the sub, I was talking about the midrange sensitivity of the stereo “woofers”.
But thank you for the tip on that Faital, seems promising as an upgrade over the ND91. I’ll look around for some 2 way with it.
But thank you for the tip on that Faital, seems promising as an upgrade over the ND91. I’ll look around for some 2 way with it.
So I looked into the Faitals that @Arez suggested and they look absolutely great on paper! Plenty sensitive, good price, can get them in EU, specs look great, etc. The only problem with them is that I cant find any two way projects with them online. Only project with one of those Faitals that I found used Peerless XT25TG30 tweeters and thats waaaay out of budget :/
Can someone please suggest a good tweeter under 20 bucks for 4FE35 or 4FE42?
Can someone please suggest a good tweeter under 20 bucks for 4FE35 or 4FE42?
That tweeter looks promising, thanks for the tip! Hopefully it will work well with that Faital.
Next up, crossover design! Plan A was to go active with a cheap DSP board (with ADAU1701 for example), but since I would need 5 analog outputs, I would have to somehow combine two of those boards. Plan B was to use the DSP only to split the subwoofer from the "satelites" and the mid-high crossover would be passive. Are any of those options usable?
Next up, crossover design! Plan A was to go active with a cheap DSP board (with ADAU1701 for example), but since I would need 5 analog outputs, I would have to somehow combine two of those boards. Plan B was to use the DSP only to split the subwoofer from the "satelites" and the mid-high crossover would be passive. Are any of those options usable?
Ah, I see 🙂
Are you using a 2.1 amp module with this? if so what are the output voltages for the .1 and stereo outs at your intended impedance?
I bring this up because the 1158 is often overlooked as a VERY capable midwoofer all the way up to a 2.5k crossover in a design like this.
But if you're doing 2.1, there's more efficient ways to handle things........for a boombox with drivers so close to each other, FAR better served with two wide band drivers eliminating the tweeters which will just comb like crazy. Save the $$ on tweeters and XO work......a pair of Faital 3fe can do 150hz to 15k no problem.
I bring this up because the 1158 is often overlooked as a VERY capable midwoofer all the way up to a 2.5k crossover in a design like this.
But if you're doing 2.1, there's more efficient ways to handle things........for a boombox with drivers so close to each other, FAR better served with two wide band drivers eliminating the tweeters which will just comb like crazy. Save the $$ on tweeters and XO work......a pair of Faital 3fe can do 150hz to 15k no problem.
For amps Ive got one TPA3255 and can either run it in dual BTL or dual SE + one BTL, then I also have a few TPA3116 boards. So the final crossover configuration will decide which amps to use on what.
1158 is a typo, or are you referring to some other driver? If you meant 1138 then Im not sure if its good in the mids - everybody is saying that it has a lot of distortion in the mids and is only good as a sub.
The reason I want to use a two way instead of a full range is to have better off axis behavior + a bit better sound since it will also be used for regular indoor music listening at some places. But now you scared me with the combing so Im not sure what to do 😅
1158 is a typo, or are you referring to some other driver? If you meant 1138 then Im not sure if its good in the mids - everybody is saying that it has a lot of distortion in the mids and is only good as a sub.
The reason I want to use a two way instead of a full range is to have better off axis behavior + a bit better sound since it will also be used for regular indoor music listening at some places. But now you scared me with the combing so Im not sure what to do 😅
The axys that you refer to is primarily that formed by the width given by L and R separation, so that the influence inbetween the two - the flat baffle represents an obstacle itself- becomes negligible at some point. I mean a metaphorical point, not the one point in space where you get flat response, zero induced nulls and extras et all.
I guess that some multi faceted baffle, or composition of forms to mimic a small soundstage needed to form an idea of correctness in music reproduction, can be done. Always the idea of making two separate boxes together with one sub and all the cables associated - that idea is winning! and a ready made BT 2.1 with should give plenty of power -about 30+30 and 60 W or even half - I guess BT is intended as primary source.
Also, the tweeter needs to be phisically little to disappear, and I would favour a horn tweeter ( Monacor has some, or Visaton) for the highr sensitivity which can be cut via L-Pad or via softtware ( or tone controls) but happens to be never enough in indoor- outdor... dense air , humidity, eh eh ...!