@MrHifiTunes Looks fine 👍 One thing, C36 and C37 -- either C0G or leave it empty, this capacitor affects the sound and C0G is proven as better 😊
Your previous question regarding the MSB adjustment, this was just for experimentation, but it turns out that the AD1862 is precisely set up from the factory.
Your previous question regarding the MSB adjustment, this was just for experimentation, but it turns out that the AD1862 is precisely set up from the factory.
All my MLCCs are C0G which remain more stable in the long run. But these are from a box with multiple values and I don't know what it is.
I can put in some other value (33p), but not sure if that's OK.
Are the Panasonic ECA's a good choise to replace the EOL nichicon's?
I can put in some other value (33p), but not sure if that's OK.
Are the Panasonic ECA's a good choise to replace the EOL nichicon's?
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I usually check without the chips in the sockets that all the voltages are present where they should be. Then I stick the chips in and that usually works. For the R I/V I leave two short wires so that I can change them later.
Blue LEDs usually shine too brightly. Whichever one you put, let it be for 20mA.
Close to first test of a new Miro AD1862 build and wanted to check with the experts here.
JLS I2s over USB powered by two separate discrete power supplies to H1: 1,2 and H3: 17,19 inputs per the specs sheet. Cut the underside trace. J4 closed and left B5 open. H3: pins 11,13,14,15 engaged.
Did I get it right?
Thanks very much,
Jim
JLS I2s over USB powered by two separate discrete power supplies to H1: 1,2 and H3: 17,19 inputs per the specs sheet. Cut the underside trace. J4 closed and left B5 open. H3: pins 11,13,14,15 engaged.
Did I get it right?
Thanks very much,
Jim
@JKiriakis Can you show a pic of the DAC without the JLSounds mounted?
Just want to check if you have configured it correctly since you are using external PSU for the 'clean side' .
Just want to check if you have configured it correctly since you are using external PSU for the 'clean side' .
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Looks like you are missing one data line connection. You have only 3 pins soldered, 4 are needed.
Upd: oh, @zoom777 already pointed out 🙂
Thanks @zoom777 and @eclipsevl. Added Pin 9, removed J4 and closed J3 and J6. Now on to fixing the negative rail of shunt regulator powering D1 output, the final task before first full fire-up. Appreciate your help!
hi miro,
regarding the #1,460 PSU 1 not only for AD1862, can i use 1/4W resistors for those four resistors: 100R, 300R, 1K, and 3K3?
regarding the #1,460 PSU 1 not only for AD1862, can i use 1/4W resistors for those four resistors: 100R, 300R, 1K, and 3K3?
Why PCM2706? At least in China it is super cheap to buy Amanero clone, incomparably better USB/I2S device.
