Hi,
Got a visit from my neighbor yesterday while enjoining my ACA + Korg, apparently it was to loud. Enter Honey Badger.
Still going through all the docs here and creating BOMs so I can pull the trigger on the parts, and of course have a ton of questions.
As the amp section is pretty much as is regarding the PCBs and parts (except some transistors and caps, still figuring that out...), I'm not sure about the PSU. I see there are two on the store: Nelson's bipolar PSU and Universal PSU.
The idea is to go with the 2x150W stereo config, and update to mono-blocks later if needed....
1. Which PSU to go with?
2. One or two PSU boards?
3. What spec toroidal to match with the PSU board(s)?
As always, much appreciated for all the help!
Cheers!
Got a visit from my neighbor yesterday while enjoining my ACA + Korg, apparently it was to loud. Enter Honey Badger.
Still going through all the docs here and creating BOMs so I can pull the trigger on the parts, and of course have a ton of questions.
As the amp section is pretty much as is regarding the PCBs and parts (except some transistors and caps, still figuring that out...), I'm not sure about the PSU. I see there are two on the store: Nelson's bipolar PSU and Universal PSU.
The idea is to go with the 2x150W stereo config, and update to mono-blocks later if needed....
1. Which PSU to go with?
2. One or two PSU boards?
3. What spec toroidal to match with the PSU board(s)?
As always, much appreciated for all the help!
Cheers!
No clue, I guess whatever it needs to be to work with the supplied parts list without any heavy mods.
Is the rail voltage flexible? I thought I need to aim for a specific value for everything to be dialled in correctly… Sorry I’m a noob 🤪
Is the rail voltage flexible? I thought I need to aim for a specific value for everything to be dialled in correctly… Sorry I’m a noob 🤪
50Vp into 8 Ohm is 150W.
Usually, you need 5 to 10 Volts headroom beyond output voltage swing. That would be 2x55 Vdc to 2x60Vdc. As transformers are usually specified in AC, that would be 2x40Vac.
Usually, you need 5 to 10 Volts headroom beyond output voltage swing. That would be 2x55 Vdc to 2x60Vdc. As transformers are usually specified in AC, that would be 2x40Vac.
Ok so if I understand correctly, something like 2 x 40 V, 6.25 A which is 500VA or 500W?
Should that be able to drive 2 x 150W or my math is wrong (probably lol)?
Should that be able to drive 2 x 150W or my math is wrong (probably lol)?
I found this in the build guide that's linked off the diyaudiostore for the Honey Badger: "The transformer used was an AnTek AN-8445, 0-45V x2 @800VA."
https://www.diyaudio.com/media/build-guides/diyaudio-diyab-build-guide-v1.0.pdf
jeff
https://www.diyaudio.com/media/build-guides/diyaudio-diyab-build-guide-v1.0.pdf
jeff
Do you care 4 Ohm load or bridge the stereo into mono? Basically that will double the wattage output.
If so, you might want to consider upscaling to 800VA.
If so, you might want to consider upscaling to 800VA.
Why don't you read through some of the docs linked off the store: https://diyaudiostore.com/products/honey-badger
jeff
I did but not all things are clear to me, that's why I'm asking questions here. Also I did search the threads on the forum and there are so many conversations about things that are touching the subject but not explaining directly what I need that I could not extract the needed information with confidence.
I'm an IT engineer, been doing it for almost 20 years, and trying to get into this hobby as I love music and soldering. And I need all the help I can get from you guys, otherwise I'm gonna burn money for nothing and burn my house down.
So far I've completed Akitika preamp kit, Akitika 2x50 amp kit, ACA kit, Korg kit, and now I'm planing to do the HB and probably (not decided yet) ANK L4 Mentor preamp kit. The end goal is to build them all (all the F's, Aleph and whatewer I can find out there), that's why I'm selling all of the completed ones so I can finance more projects.
Also I like building speakers and so far I did a HiVi 3.1 with upgraded crossovers and CSS 1TD-X (almost completed) and already looking which pair I will build next.
Before starting with this hobby a year ago, my last experience with the subject was in highschool (more than 20 years ago) as I had electrical cicuits and a few simmilar classes. Whatewer I learned then is mostly gone by now, so starting from scratch.
Hope this explains more about where I'm comming from and why I'm asking things that most of you guys are probably already sick of hearing. My appologies for that. But to be honest, when it comes to fiddling with 800W devices, even if I'm 100% sure that I found my answers, I will still try to doublecheck with you guys, just because I want to stay alive.
To summarize what I have so far:
1. 800 VA 45-0-45 toroidal
2. PSU board is P-PSU-1V20 but on the store is P-PSU-1V30. Is V30 just the newer version of V20 or I need to look elsewhere?
Still working on the parts hunt, once done will post what I have and probably more related questions.
Thanks for everything! Cheers!
BTW, I'm creating a package that could be used by all beginners like me or anyone that want's to build this amp but doesn't have time or knowledge to search and hunt all the bits and peaces from different threads here, and different vendor websites. What I'm thinking of including is:
1. PSU parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
2. Amp parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
3. Soft start parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
4. Speaker protection parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
5. Any other parts vendor specific lists if any
6. Direct links to purchase all needed PCBs, transformer, chassis and auxiliaries
7. Build documentation
The idea is to have all bundled up in one place and organized.
Please let me know if you see any value in this and if you think there is something else I could include to it to make this build more straight forward...
Cheers!
1. PSU parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
2. Amp parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
3. Soft start parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
4. Speaker protection parts list that is directly importable to digikey basket with resolved specs for specific build
5. Any other parts vendor specific lists if any
6. Direct links to purchase all needed PCBs, transformer, chassis and auxiliaries
7. Build documentation
The idea is to have all bundled up in one place and organized.
Please let me know if you see any value in this and if you think there is something else I could include to it to make this build more straight forward...
Cheers!
Hi,
Have some questions regarding the PSU parts. I did read the Hagerman article and did some searching on the forums, but still need help on choosing the components. The transformer is AnTek 45 0 45 800VA and I plan to use two standard V3 PSU boards which would than be dual mono configuration if I understand the logic correctly. Please correct me on this one!
These are the specs I would like to confirm with you guys before going any further, as these will dictate by next loudspeakers build. In the above configuration, are these specks correct?
2 x 150 W @ 8 Ohm
2 x 250 W @ 4 Ohm
1 x 300 W @ 8 Ohm – bridged
1 x 500 W @ 4 Ohm – bridged – is it stable??
Diodes
FEP30DP-E3/45 VS. MBR20200CT
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...onductor-diodes-division/fep30dp-e3-45/604818
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/smc-diode-solutions/MBR20200CT/6022132
First one is standard and the second one is Schottky, otherwise specs are very similar. Prices are $4 vs $2 CAD respectively. According to my research, Schottky shoud be “better” as it prevents the transistor going into saturation. Is this one of the examples where cheaper is indeed better or should I stick to the standard operating mode transistor FEP30? Any benefits of going with the FEP in my use case, as I could save $30 here easy?
Resistors
R1 – R8 → replace with jumper if CRC filtering not required
R_Optional1 – R_Optional6 → replace with jumper if CRC filtering not required
What value to go with? The transformer is AnTek 45 0 45 800VA + dual standard PSU boards.
Do I need Optional1 – Optional6 and if yes, what value?
Did a bit of a research on CRC filtering, there is a good thread here on the forum, but still puzzled is that what I need for my setup? If it’s better to have it in this situation, I will definitely go with it. Please advise...
R9 – R10 same question…
RS1 – RS2 same question…
Capacitors
From the build guide: “Recommended capacitance is a total of 40,000uf per rail. If you are using the diyAudio PSU board, that would be 4 X 10,000uf caps per rail for a total of 8 caps. If the recommended AnTek AN-8445 transformer is used, a minimum of 75V working voltage is recommended.”
This "working voltage" part mentioned, I assume he is refering to the operating voltage of the caps?
C1 – C8 – 10,000 uf, 75V or higher?? Please advise.
Also, can someone please point me to the exact caps to buy for C1 - C8 (link to digikey would be awesome) as what I’ve found is $25 per cap. Totally lost on this one lol.
CX1 – CX2, CS1 – CS2 → again not sure about the specs, please advise for this specific build
PCBs have been ordered and as soon as I collect all the answers here, I’m pulling the trigger on the PSU components.
My apologies for the long post, trying to compress everything as much as possible...
Much appreciated! Cheers!
Have some questions regarding the PSU parts. I did read the Hagerman article and did some searching on the forums, but still need help on choosing the components. The transformer is AnTek 45 0 45 800VA and I plan to use two standard V3 PSU boards which would than be dual mono configuration if I understand the logic correctly. Please correct me on this one!
These are the specs I would like to confirm with you guys before going any further, as these will dictate by next loudspeakers build. In the above configuration, are these specks correct?
2 x 150 W @ 8 Ohm
2 x 250 W @ 4 Ohm
1 x 300 W @ 8 Ohm – bridged
1 x 500 W @ 4 Ohm – bridged – is it stable??
Diodes
FEP30DP-E3/45 VS. MBR20200CT
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...onductor-diodes-division/fep30dp-e3-45/604818
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/smc-diode-solutions/MBR20200CT/6022132
First one is standard and the second one is Schottky, otherwise specs are very similar. Prices are $4 vs $2 CAD respectively. According to my research, Schottky shoud be “better” as it prevents the transistor going into saturation. Is this one of the examples where cheaper is indeed better or should I stick to the standard operating mode transistor FEP30? Any benefits of going with the FEP in my use case, as I could save $30 here easy?
Resistors
R1 – R8 → replace with jumper if CRC filtering not required
R_Optional1 – R_Optional6 → replace with jumper if CRC filtering not required
What value to go with? The transformer is AnTek 45 0 45 800VA + dual standard PSU boards.
Do I need Optional1 – Optional6 and if yes, what value?
Did a bit of a research on CRC filtering, there is a good thread here on the forum, but still puzzled is that what I need for my setup? If it’s better to have it in this situation, I will definitely go with it. Please advise...
R9 – R10 same question…
RS1 – RS2 same question…
Capacitors
From the build guide: “Recommended capacitance is a total of 40,000uf per rail. If you are using the diyAudio PSU board, that would be 4 X 10,000uf caps per rail for a total of 8 caps. If the recommended AnTek AN-8445 transformer is used, a minimum of 75V working voltage is recommended.”
This "working voltage" part mentioned, I assume he is refering to the operating voltage of the caps?
C1 – C8 – 10,000 uf, 75V or higher?? Please advise.
Also, can someone please point me to the exact caps to buy for C1 - C8 (link to digikey would be awesome) as what I’ve found is $25 per cap. Totally lost on this one lol.
CX1 – CX2, CS1 – CS2 → again not sure about the specs, please advise for this specific build
PCBs have been ordered and as soon as I collect all the answers here, I’m pulling the trigger on the PSU components.
My apologies for the long post, trying to compress everything as much as possible...
Much appreciated! Cheers!
If ignore the voltage sagging, bridging can quadruple the power output for the same load. Thus that will be 600W per channel into 8 Ohm.
For 4 Ohm, that will be 1200W, per channel.
To build 2 channels with bridging, you need 4 channels equivalent hardware to do so.
PS: Don't chase the wattage. Your speakers might be only rated at something like 200W. Exceeding that is not recommended.
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Got it, thanks!
Yeah, the idea was not to go higher that 300W per channel anyway, just curious what the output specs are and what output combos are stable.
Dual mono config should be more than enough for me, and that's the build I'm going for. And eventually if I'll have money to throw away, will add one more exact same chassis into the mix and drive them as two monoblocks.
Thanks so much! Cheers!
Yeah, the idea was not to go higher that 300W per channel anyway, just curious what the output specs are and what output combos are stable.
Dual mono config should be more than enough for me, and that's the build I'm going for. And eventually if I'll have money to throw away, will add one more exact same chassis into the mix and drive them as two monoblocks.
Thanks so much! Cheers!
C1 - C8
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/380LX103M080A052?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3T2mGac%2BTKhA/dpqs3b5vEY=
CX1 – CX2, CS1 – CS2
With the choice of your fast-switching soft recovery diodes, you probably won't need these... especially if the transformer secondary leads are not cut very short. To properly dampen the secondary/didoes "tank", you'll need an oscilloscope. If you over-dampen, the sound will suffer (loss of details, loss of spatial sound/air, loss of transients' attack). In other words, you need to leave just a bit of overshoot... but prevent ringing.
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/380LX103M080A052?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwFf0viD3Y3T2mGac%2BTKhA/dpqs3b5vEY=
CX1 – CX2, CS1 – CS2
With the choice of your fast-switching soft recovery diodes, you probably won't need these... especially if the transformer secondary leads are not cut very short. To properly dampen the secondary/didoes "tank", you'll need an oscilloscope. If you over-dampen, the sound will suffer (loss of details, loss of spatial sound/air, loss of transients' attack). In other words, you need to leave just a bit of overshoot... but prevent ringing.
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C1 - C8 I guess these ones will work too then?
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/nichicon/LLS1K103MELC/2548907
Regarding diodes, I don't know which one to choose. What is your recommendation, FEP30DP-E3/45 or MBR20200CT?
Thank you!!!
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/nichicon/LLS1K103MELC/2548907
Regarding diodes, I don't know which one to choose. What is your recommendation, FEP30DP-E3/45 or MBR20200CT?
Thank you!!!
I don't want to divert you from your Honey Badger project, particularly if you have already purchased parts, but you may have more success with its spiritual successor, the Wolverine. Both are fairly "complex" builds when compared to a lot of DIY projects, but the Wolverine has an exceptional (again by typical DIY standards) build document that lays out almost every single part and wire you need along with members posting thorough build videos to demonstrate proper wiring etc. of all the primary and secondary housekeeping circuits.
Best of luck with whichever you choose, and enjoy the music!
Best of luck with whichever you choose, and enjoy the music!
Thank you for the info, will definitely check it out.
Talking about success, not sure if I understand how this whole diyaudio thing is set up but will try to unpack here:
Diyaudiostore sells you boards. Then it tells you to go to diyaudio.com forum for support. Then you get crickets.
Long story short, I pay, they get success. Sweet.
Talking about success, not sure if I understand how this whole diyaudio thing is set up but will try to unpack here:
Diyaudiostore sells you boards. Then it tells you to go to diyaudio.com forum for support. Then you get crickets.
Long story short, I pay, they get success. Sweet.