Hi all! So there is an old thread on this Chip. That it is very power hungry and noisy
And the thread poster wanted to have a dedicated PSU. Although I’m not sure why they talked about grounding it… if I understand it right. Isn’t the right way to do it is to have a PSU that have 5 volt to VDD and VSS ? And leave it grounded in the board.
The data sheet shows Pin 12 and 24 wouldn’t that solve the power issue ?
Is there someone out here that have experience in this!? 🙏
And the thread poster wanted to have a dedicated PSU. Although I’m not sure why they talked about grounding it… if I understand it right. Isn’t the right way to do it is to have a PSU that have 5 volt to VDD and VSS ? And leave it grounded in the board.
The data sheet shows Pin 12 and 24 wouldn’t that solve the power issue ?
Is there someone out here that have experience in this!? 🙏
Just add an additional 7805 dedicated for the SAA7220, leave GND as it is. In most Philips CD players the 5V is fed over some fusible resistors a 4.7Ohms. This is the perfect spot to inject the dedicated 5V.
LM7805 or equivalent 3 terminal voltage regulator. You need at least the 1A rated types. 78L05 and 78M05 are not suitable.
SAA7220 needs ~500mA maximum althoug I never measured it IRL.
SAA7220 needs ~500mA maximum althoug I never measured it IRL.
Ahh thank you. Alright at least my theory was right with VDD AND VSS then I guess. Any knowledge with NOS? And do you have anny experience with the 7220 PSU modification ?
Why don't you tell us what device exactly your're talking about?
After playing around more than 15yrs with the TDA1541 - forget all that non-oversampling stuff. The SAA7220 is part of that "famous" Philips sound. You're on the right track by spending that IC its own power, but don't invest much more.
You know, by 2025 a TDA1541 based DAC is just a sounding device, you'll never bring it to the ultimate Hifi-nirvana. Beside that, If you're on that trip, go back and get a TDA1540 device (CD104, CD304 and so on).
After playing around more than 15yrs with the TDA1541 - forget all that non-oversampling stuff. The SAA7220 is part of that "famous" Philips sound. You're on the right track by spending that IC its own power, but don't invest much more.
You know, by 2025 a TDA1541 based DAC is just a sounding device, you'll never bring it to the ultimate Hifi-nirvana. Beside that, If you're on that trip, go back and get a TDA1540 device (CD104, CD304 and so on).
The device is a Revox b226-S
It’s the single crown TDA1541
Ok. So that NOS is no good idea?
Could you please elaborate on your history? It would be interesting
Although I really like the Lite DAC ah. With Philips’s tda 1543 x8 but maybe it’s a way different sound…
It’s the single crown TDA1541
Ok. So that NOS is no good idea?
Could you please elaborate on your history? It would be interesting
Although I really like the Lite DAC ah. With Philips’s tda 1543 x8 but maybe it’s a way different sound…
By 2025, there are much better measuring - and - sounding D/A units out there.
The value of that Revox is its original condition - it is like with old cars (and that Revox is the equivalent to an old Porsche!).
I beg you - if that thing is working - leave that as it is. Replace the electrolytic capacitors at most, maybe upgrade the opamps.
Please leave that device as original as possible!
If you want the ultimate sound, get yourself any >800€/$ SMSL/Topping - and from time to time, enjoy your unmodified Revox.
If you really want to start modding a TDA1541 player, look out for a Philips CD620/CD630 or the older CD640/CD670 (there are much more out there).
For the "real" Philips sound signature, you'll ultimately end at a TDA1540 device, that is by now CD104, CD204 or CD304 (or the Marantz equivalents).
The value of that Revox is its original condition - it is like with old cars (and that Revox is the equivalent to an old Porsche!).
I beg you - if that thing is working - leave that as it is. Replace the electrolytic capacitors at most, maybe upgrade the opamps.
Please leave that device as original as possible!
If you want the ultimate sound, get yourself any >800€/$ SMSL/Topping - and from time to time, enjoy your unmodified Revox.
If you really want to start modding a TDA1541 player, look out for a Philips CD620/CD630 or the older CD640/CD670 (there are much more out there).
For the "real" Philips sound signature, you'll ultimately end at a TDA1540 device, that is by now CD104, CD204 or CD304 (or the Marantz equivalents).
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Funny thing is! I own topping DACs to 😅 but I really like the laid back sound of these old Philips dacs. They really sound natural. Sure new dacs measure better of course. Probably topping is world class with the measurements Audio science review done.
Alright… you’re begging 😅 alright I will leave that thing alone. Il by some old Philips to fiddle with. The oamps some suggestions?
Alright… you’re begging 😅 alright I will leave that thing alone. Il by some old Philips to fiddle with. The oamps some suggestions?
And another thing… I’ve seen that many devices with the 1540 and 1541 have 7210 and 7220 ?? Does the 7210 have the same noisy problem?
Duals that replace NE5532 and LM833: OPA1642, OPA1656
Honestly, in the attempt to perform the "ultimate" mods presented here in the forums I've destroyed thousands of €. Not worth it.
Do the "housekeeping" for the old devices, replace the electrolytics one-by-one, ever testing each single step and know when its good.
If you enjoy the B226, then go watch out for a TDA1540 based CD Player, this list is your friend:
https://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/the_complete_d_a_dac_converter_list/
After many TDA1541 players (no Revox though...), I've settled to a CD304 (there's even a MK2 with TDA1541). Go, get yourself one of these units, don't touch the CDM0/1 if it is working, and modify from there - but that could be another story for a couple of years.
Honestly, in the attempt to perform the "ultimate" mods presented here in the forums I've destroyed thousands of €. Not worth it.
Do the "housekeeping" for the old devices, replace the electrolytics one-by-one, ever testing each single step and know when its good.
If you enjoy the B226, then go watch out for a TDA1540 based CD Player, this list is your friend:
https://www.dutchaudioclassics.nl/the_complete_d_a_dac_converter_list/
After many TDA1541 players (no Revox though...), I've settled to a CD304 (there's even a MK2 with TDA1541). Go, get yourself one of these units, don't touch the CDM0/1 if it is working, and modify from there - but that could be another story for a couple of years.
Man what a library 😳
Thanks ! But just quick? Is the 7210 a noisy thing to? Or leave that thing alone?
(Not the revox) in other Philips devices let’s say
Any thoughts on the Pioneer PD-91 ?
Thanks ! But just quick? Is the 7210 a noisy thing to? Or leave that thing alone?
(Not the revox) in other Philips devices let’s say
Any thoughts on the Pioneer PD-91 ?
TDA1540 has the SAA7000 and SAA7030 in the "oversampling" path, those ICs are supplied by +5V and +12V (older IC technology), so compared to the SAA7220, they split their power demands over two ICS and two voltage rails where only the +5V is common with the TDA1540 DAC IC.
But that is splitting hairs, IMHO you're on a one-way track. Don't get yourself hang up by that "noisy oversampling filter IC" topic. It doesn't suddenly make a B226 compete with a modern DAC.
If you have the €€€/$$$ send your unit to https://nanocamp.de/ or http://www.romangross.com/ to be modified, if not - just do as I recommended before.
But that is splitting hairs, IMHO you're on a one-way track. Don't get yourself hang up by that "noisy oversampling filter IC" topic. It doesn't suddenly make a B226 compete with a modern DAC.
If you have the €€€/$$$ send your unit to https://nanocamp.de/ or http://www.romangross.com/ to be modified, if not - just do as I recommended before.
If you want the ultimate "raw" CD player, look at the listing for the units with PCM63/PCM1702 DACs. Mainstream units came from Denon, Kenwood and Pioneer.
Forget everything they tell about "stable platter"(Pioneer), "fixed laser" (Sony) and so on, that was all marketing ******** and engineers playing games at the end of the CD lifetime when DVD came around. The most elaborate disc mechanism was the Philips CDM0/1 with all its disadvantages.
Forget everything they tell about "stable platter"(Pioneer), "fixed laser" (Sony) and so on, that was all marketing ******** and engineers playing games at the end of the CD lifetime when DVD came around. The most elaborate disc mechanism was the Philips CDM0/1 with all its disadvantages.
What a comedian 🤣If you want the ultimate sound, get yourself any >800€/$ SMSL/Topping - and from time to time, enjoy your unmodified Revox.
@Badula many people consider cd77 a reference cd player, even today, and that beast has tda1541a and tube analog stage 🙂 That chip is very good, and measurements aren't everything, especially with chifi run of the mill DS dacs, horrible without going into really high price range. With modern tech, tda1541a implementation is amazing, and giving NOS a try is not something i would avoid.
Ohhh damn… We have a fight, so 2 people saying the complete opposite. The AMR cd 77? Might I ask do you own that thing? Or have you listened to it?
Unfortunatelly no. But the creator of that beautiful beast is here on forums @ThorstenL
On the other hand i listened to the price ranged toppings (smsl same 💩). Sounds worse than dacs you can find in miros topic here (you can really tell when listening to an artist in a recording studio, and then played on a device, many here don't get a chance). But you do get nice looking box, and ease of use, also, well, a ready made plug and play device so theres that.
On the other hand i listened to the price ranged toppings (smsl same 💩). Sounds worse than dacs you can find in miros topic here (you can really tell when listening to an artist in a recording studio, and then played on a device, many here don't get a chance). But you do get nice looking box, and ease of use, also, well, a ready made plug and play device so theres that.
Hmm… don’t know if I agree there. The little topping E30 mark 2 on USB interface is really good… and also the measurements.
But on the CD77.. you’re probably right! Although I have listened to many “audiophiles “ in my listening years.. and the conclusion is.. that it almost just opinions.. you know? It’s always their own gear or the gear they selling or!!! The gear they listened to that is always the “best”
But on the CD77.. you’re probably right! Although I have listened to many “audiophiles “ in my listening years.. and the conclusion is.. that it almost just opinions.. you know? It’s always their own gear or the gear they selling or!!! The gear they listened to that is always the “best”
Keep the Revox original, only recap it. Forget NOS, it's nonsense. Try a PCM63 (or PCM1702, PCM1704, AD1862, AD1865) based machine. Or a Philips CD202, CD204, CD303, CD304, CD304MK2. Or a Naim CD3, CDi, CDS1, CDS2, CDS3 (BTW there is a CDi on PFM for a good price at the moment).
And also check here for the chips!
And also check here for the chips!
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