Sorry for the rough sketch.
Personally i would do something like i scribbled on your drawing, if it is not too much of a headache.
Divide the Bass enclosure into 2 parts, then you double the frequency of the internal standing wave so it is easier absorb/ damp out.
A irregular shaped enclosure volume is usually a good thing for midranges, and give a little more volume for the bass drivers.
A little 'cup' behind the tweeter to isolate it from the rest.
Downside is a little less thermal power handling, as there is less air volume to cool it.
As for the rest, it looks like those baffles are in need of a inside chamfer for the driver mounting holes. Might be the pics fooling me.
The amount of 'mids' seems high compared to bass drivers in terms of membrane area, but i don't know the design and drivers well enough.
Be sure you have enough capability on the bottom end,🙂
It is taking shape quite nicely.
Personally i would do something like i scribbled on your drawing, if it is not too much of a headache.
Divide the Bass enclosure into 2 parts, then you double the frequency of the internal standing wave so it is easier absorb/ damp out.
A irregular shaped enclosure volume is usually a good thing for midranges, and give a little more volume for the bass drivers.
A little 'cup' behind the tweeter to isolate it from the rest.
Downside is a little less thermal power handling, as there is less air volume to cool it.
As for the rest, it looks like those baffles are in need of a inside chamfer for the driver mounting holes. Might be the pics fooling me.
The amount of 'mids' seems high compared to bass drivers in terms of membrane area, but i don't know the design and drivers well enough.
Be sure you have enough capability on the bottom end,🙂
It is taking shape quite nicely.
Attachments
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Thanks Arez 👍
I was thinking of splitting the woofers into 2 & 2, & I also have to have the crossover somewhere so I'll probably make a double wall, with a removable door so you can access it.
It will only play from 80 hz, but i also thought on "how to" use the 8 pieses of peerless_fsl_0512r01_08 "the best way"
And in pair´s it´s easy to get an even impedance ( 2x2 to 16 ohm and 8 ohm at the xover)
If i use 5 of them as woofers and 3 for midrange, they will have different impedance and with that different output.
And maby you can "take advantage" of that point-source-wise, but for sure it give you many workinghour´s 😉
About chamfer for the driver mounting holes, it will be done if needed.
From the beginning i was thinking about mounting them from behind, and make "waveguides" in the MDF for all of them, but It will be extremely difficult if a driver needs to be replaced in that case.
And i don´t want to make an dismountable backside for the hole speaker ( it´s 3 pieses at backside)
Everything is a compromise
Yes the chamfers will be beneficial even at that thickness, especially for the 'mids'.
It avoids internal diffraction from that 90 degree edge.
It creates a cavity resonance, that is more or less visible both in the FR and CSD plots.
That and the non paralell walls is what i'd do to the mid enclosure for improvements if desired.
Necessary it is not though.
A simple example with a 3mm thicker baffle then yours:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm
Also Jim Moriyasus writeup, a study of midrange enclosures (speak builder magazine 2000 NR7/8).
It avoids internal diffraction from that 90 degree edge.
It creates a cavity resonance, that is more or less visible both in the FR and CSD plots.
That and the non paralell walls is what i'd do to the mid enclosure for improvements if desired.
Necessary it is not though.
A simple example with a 3mm thicker baffle then yours:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm
Also Jim Moriyasus writeup, a study of midrange enclosures (speak builder magazine 2000 NR7/8).
Is that needed with Audax TW025A28 do you think?
It will be hard to find "cup", that work with 125 x 175 waveguide-hole.
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So projects continue and now i have sanded all surfaces & rounded the edges on one of the cabinetts.
In my mind before i started, i see a slim "invisible" tv-speaker in front of me, but the "real thing" is another storry.
It´s heavy and relatively large with it´s 155 high x 23 wide x 23 deep in cm.
Have glued nr 2 this evening, but have the backside and xover-space left to do.
And i becomes much work when you dont have semiproffesional worktools, and also work at the kitchen table.
In my mind before i started, i see a slim "invisible" tv-speaker in front of me, but the "real thing" is another storry.
It´s heavy and relatively large with it´s 155 high x 23 wide x 23 deep in cm.
Have glued nr 2 this evening, but have the backside and xover-space left to do.
And i becomes much work when you dont have semiproffesional worktools, and also work at the kitchen table.
Attachments
Pics for them ho wish to se more of consept.
Hard to get better for the cost or 10 times more!
Angle in the cabinette is 2,5 then 5 grades, so drivers pointing to listener.
And place for the xover at the back.
Hard to get better for the cost or 10 times more!
Angle in the cabinette is 2,5 then 5 grades, so drivers pointing to listener.
And place for the xover at the back.
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