I plan on eventually fixing up my Adcom GFA-535II then maybe finding another one or a smaller GFA series amp and using them with my GFA-545II and a crossover to three way amplify my Advent Maestros.
I'd love to use a GFA series amp for the subs to keep the amps the same series so they all have a real similar sound, but I don't know if there's a GFA series amp that is powerful enough. That said perhaps a class D amp would be best for the subs.
I'd love to use a GFA series amp for the subs to keep the amps the same series so they all have a real similar sound, but I don't know if there's a GFA series amp that is powerful enough. That said perhaps a class D amp would be best for the subs.
My wife and mum are spoiling me with a Brazilian 3K for my b'day today 🙂
This will replace the ageing 1000/1 in my car and will prolly run 4x ZR12.4Ds in my Subaru XV to replace the single 25yr old 12W7
Ain't it nice getting FREE new toys!
Not a big fan of ported cabinets.
Bandpass 4 life!
Sealed cabinets are distortion monsters.
The BP4 has LESS total internal volume than the 3ft3 sealed enclosure.
BP4 = 600 watts.
Sealed = 800 watts.
BANDPASS RULES!
BP4 = 600 watts.
Sealed = 800 watts.
BANDPASS RULES!
If I didn't already have cabinets, I'd perhaps look into bandpass.
That said I've always gotten good sound with sealed cabinets.
The only ported box I really liked was an 8" slot ported Klipsch powered sub which was part of an iPod dock system.
That said I've always gotten good sound with sealed cabinets.
The only ported box I really liked was an 8" slot ported Klipsch powered sub which was part of an iPod dock system.
Well the Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 is backordered until 6-27-2025 so I'll need a different sub that will work in that sealed cabinet as I want to go ahead and get these subs done while I have the money to do so.
https://www.parts-express.com/DS18-...rbon-Fiber-Duat-Cap-4-Ohm-294-8072?quantity=1
Saw this one.https://www.parts-express.com/DS18-...rbon-Fiber-Duat-Cap-4-Ohm-294-8072?quantity=1
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I'd be inclined just to go with this.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...C-Subwoofer-2-Ohm-Per-Coil-295-714?quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...C-Subwoofer-2-Ohm-Per-Coil-295-714?quantity=1
I'd choose the Eminence LAB15 over the Dayton any day. There are multiple reasons why.
The Dayton RSS sub has a heavier, less durable aluminum cone (prone to deforming at higher output in smaller sealed boxes). I've heard this myself and its not a pleasant sound.
The Dayton's 2.5" VC can't handle quite as much power as the 3" LAB15 VC. That's not just because of the diameter, but also due to the VC former materials and adhesives Eminence uses.
The LAB15 is also more of a musical sub than the RSS390HO.
That new Ultimax II driver has a very high Qts and overall doesn't sound very accurate, even compared to the Dayton RSS390HO. It looks impressive though from a build quality perspective.
The Dayton RSS sub has a heavier, less durable aluminum cone (prone to deforming at higher output in smaller sealed boxes). I've heard this myself and its not a pleasant sound.
The Dayton's 2.5" VC can't handle quite as much power as the 3" LAB15 VC. That's not just because of the diameter, but also due to the VC former materials and adhesives Eminence uses.
The LAB15 is also more of a musical sub than the RSS390HO.
That new Ultimax II driver has a very high Qts and overall doesn't sound very accurate, even compared to the Dayton RSS390HO. It looks impressive though from a build quality perspective.
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What would be the F3 of that Eminence in a 3 cu ft box?
Also
Parts Express is out of stock so I may have to buy it here.
https://ds18.com/products/ds18-zr15...0SF3z5gXpPfSEFahDcpMKJQpdlrmp9DRzMLQoRfCm2B51
Also
Parts Express is out of stock so I may have to buy it here.
https://ds18.com/products/ds18-zr15...0SF3z5gXpPfSEFahDcpMKJQpdlrmp9DRzMLQoRfCm2B51
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Since it's dual voice coil and I'm not sure how I want to wire it I may get a second set of the 5 way binding posts I used so that I do not have to remove the driver to configure it for 2 ohm or 4 ohm impedance
The left, labeled "sealed" in the comment box, and "Direct Radiator" is sealed.Are the photos on the left sealed or bandpass?
The right (with the +20dB honking upper peak and -3dB at 20Hz) labeled BP4 and "Horn" is the bandpass.
The light gray traces compare one to the other.
The left, labeled "sealed" in the comment box, and "Direct Radiator" is sealed.
This pic is a SEALED enclosure, hence the red "Clo".
Vtc & Atc = driver cutout and 0.75in wood.
This pic is a 4th order bandpass enclosure!labeled BP4 and "Horn" is the bandpass
Imagine 0.75in wood around EVERY solid black line.
Horn enclosures are nothing more than BP4 or BP6 enclosures with positive flare ports that provide better performance than straight flare ports.
View attachment 1421700
The right (with the +20dB honking upper peak and -3dB at 20Hz)
No ONE listens to a SUBwoofer without a low pass filter, hence...
Whatever frequencies above the low pass filter doesn't matter.
I believe someone on this forum made the statement about they stopped trying to make a SUBwoofer be a MIDBASS driver too.
Also, I only used 100hz low pass filter on the BP4 for apples to apples comparison to the sealed enclosure.
9 out of 10 times, folks are going to use an 80hz low pass filter on a SUBwoofer.
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