Greetings from India

Namaste 🙏

If you can provide the basic criteria of what you need and what you expect of them, it can help enthusiasts to offer useful guidance/suggestions.

Criteria like configuration, size of drivers, size of the cabinets, how high & low in frequency and the peak SPL you need them to deliver, what genres of music you will want them to reproduce, etc. And of course the cost you are willing to sustain! 🙂
 
  • Like
Reactions: MrKlinky
Hello,
The build is for Home Theater a 2-way with bass-reflex port with the drivers as :
Tweeter - Dayton Audio ND20FA-6
Woofer - SB Acoustics SB16pfcr25-8
The cabinet size is not yet decided somewhere around 8-10 L made with 19 mm MDF tuned to 150 Hz with 2nd Order Butterworth High pass at 4000Hz Low pass at 150Hz.
I am making due with what I am finding locally. The total budget around 20,000 inr.
I am always open to suggestions as I am a TOTALLY a newbie.
 
Location?

Give them to a local fabricator of boxes, they will set them in the box for you.
For them it is every day work, just tell if you want extra bass....that is how I got my boxes made.
Ask in the electronics market, if you have one in your city, speaker repair men may know who does it.

What about the mid range / full range drivers? This above is tweeter and woofer only...
 
Then only box and crossover can be designed / selected...

Car accessory shops get boxes made for sub-woofer in cars, they also will tell you who will do the work.
MDF dust can be toxic, let that be done by professionals with proper ventilation equipment.
 
Dust off the board, wipe / blow at shop before bringing home.
Sometimes laser cutting service will give better accuracy, no dust, worth thinking about.

I use chip board screws to hold them together, use PVA emulsion, (wood glue, eg. Fevicol) before screwing up.
Only wood glue may not be strong enough. Chip board screws are different from wood screws, different shape, easily available.

Get best quality board, cheap ones are affected by moisture.
PVC foam board is an excellent alternate choice. No moisture issues, acoustically similar to particle board, a little expensive maybe.

Fevicol is a popular brand here, no ties.
 
Last edited:
I second Michael Chua's Lark SM, have done a test build and really liked the sound. Unfortunately, I have the old SB16 frame shape, which is a pain to flush mount - so I didn't!

Would the Vifa really double your cost - due to the US$ appreciating, the price of Dayton drivers, at least in Oz, is increasing much faster than SB and Vifa.

Re your original idea, I think 4,000Hz is too high a XO point for the SB16, I'd suggest 2500 or lower.

Geoff
 
Do you have to pay duty etc on second hand goods? If not, and you wanted to use a different tweeter to the ND20FA, , you could always put an advertisement in the 'wanted to buy' section here.

You can get SB Acoustics, so you could consider using the SB26ST-C0005, which is used with the SB16pfc in an Australian commercial kit.

https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/lsk-m6s-monitor-kit~23797

Of course, the speaker is the intellectual property of its seller, but it may give you some ideas about cabinet size, etc. You certainly wouldn't want to import it, cabinet and all - that would be very, very expensive.

The SB26 can cross much lower than the ND20, whose 'resonant frequency' is stated as 2,000Hz, so you wouldn't really want to cross it much below twice that, i.e. 4,000Hz. The SB resonant frequency is stated as 870Hz, so a crossover point of 1800 - 2000Hz with the SB16 should work.

Only a suggestion

Geoff
 
After spending a few hours visiting forums, reading guides and watching YouTube tutorials one thing I realized is that building and designing a speaker is very hard since you have to consider many factors. So I have decided to follow a speaker build by Paul Carmody (famous for Overnight Sensation) the Swope HT (only the TM Surround) the only change I think I will do is instead of sealed it will be ported and tuned at 100Hz