Back to my car speakers to home speakers project. I tried to simulate things in WinIsd. I used two similar entry-level car speakers data from another brands to get approximate of mine, as there is no actual data available. I got very promising response curves with 36 liter box and 55Hz tuning on both cases. Basically those curves looked the same with very slight dip around 60-80Hz, but one had more low frequencies in overall. So I probably try to build that box to see what happens.
Questions:
Where do I want this 1st port resonance at, or does it even matter in full range speaker?
Would it be better to build same volume box using folded triangle method (with the total length of 1560mm)? And would it be benefical to make that wall between slightly slanted? At least I haven't seen one, but should that be useful to reduce any standing frequencies? How about making the box kind of a pyramid shaped?
Questions:
Where do I want this 1st port resonance at, or does it even matter in full range speaker?
Would it be better to build same volume box using folded triangle method (with the total length of 1560mm)? And would it be benefical to make that wall between slightly slanted? At least I haven't seen one, but should that be useful to reduce any standing frequencies? How about making the box kind of a pyramid shaped?
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That was pretty inaccurate description from me. I meant that the speaker could have triangular shape if you look it from top, so that it gets narrower towards the back. That has absolute nothing to do with the pyramids...dunno where I got that word in my head 🙄
Nanobit, you risk to spend monney for a poor result without a basic amount of knowledge, as far the goal is to winn monney and have good sound.
If it is about learning it is another story. But you need stuffs to measure, datasheets and aproximations like you targett are useless and even less datasheets from another models.
my 2 cents
A trade off as explained could start from the studies of a ready made "simple" DIY kit, and try to start from there to learn about the basic of filtering.
Dickason loudpspeaker coocbook is a good invest as the fundamentals understanding to beginn with.
If it is about learning it is another story. But you need stuffs to measure, datasheets and aproximations like you targett are useless and even less datasheets from another models.
my 2 cents
A trade off as explained could start from the studies of a ready made "simple" DIY kit, and try to start from there to learn about the basic of filtering.
Dickason loudpspeaker coocbook is a good invest as the fundamentals understanding to beginn with.
It matters if you want some semblance of sound quality and you aren't extraordinarily lucky when it comes to picking random values out of thin air. Ported enclosure design is best done with proper Thiele/Small parameters and in a simulator where you can see what excursion and roll-off are doing. There are too many degrees of freedom and significant interactions to just wing it and get predictable results. Additionally, two speakers that kind of look alike can have completely different parameters. That's why I originally suggested a simple sealed enclosure if you just want to try something.
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Diyiggy, I'm not risking anything. I have some scrap boards lying around, and those speakers already. I also have enough tools for this project. I'm not gonna buy anything for this, just want to try something. Don't mix this for that main project.
Mattstat, of course real data would be handy, but I don't have that data, and I can't find it anywhere. Sealed enclosure would be too boring, because I already know how it will sound. Everyone does. If I can't get any lows out of it, I don't have any use for it.
Mattstat, of course real data would be handy, but I don't have that data, and I can't find it anywhere. Sealed enclosure would be too boring, because I already know how it will sound. Everyone does. If I can't get any lows out of it, I don't have any use for it.
reality is boring : most of the car speakers are 4 ohms and made for sealed spaces...
you always see you haven't all the tools at the last moment
you will see coils are not for free, even more if you can not size them because you haven't the datas.
I will be amazed if that don't cost you less than 150 euros at the end for a bad result, whatever you have the drivers and wood, and wood tooling (circular saw with good disc at minima with a guiding rail, plus campling tools during glueing, router is 50 euros at Lidl supermarket).
So you eventually if monney being budgeted for hifi, need to substracte this from your main project, if this monney reality matters.
Vented will not sound better than sealed and no chance to make a good one without proper datas or instruments to measure the drivers.... reality is boring ! At least you are adverted ! 🙂
good luck ! 🙂
final advice : buy the Genelec, the Neuman, the kit or the Triangle and with the difference Dickason coockbook to have better basic knowledge as you don't believe me or any of the good trained guys here.
😉
you always see you haven't all the tools at the last moment
you will see coils are not for free, even more if you can not size them because you haven't the datas.
I will be amazed if that don't cost you less than 150 euros at the end for a bad result, whatever you have the drivers and wood, and wood tooling (circular saw with good disc at minima with a guiding rail, plus campling tools during glueing, router is 50 euros at Lidl supermarket).
So you eventually if monney being budgeted for hifi, need to substracte this from your main project, if this monney reality matters.
Vented will not sound better than sealed and no chance to make a good one without proper datas or instruments to measure the drivers.... reality is boring ! At least you are adverted ! 🙂
good luck ! 🙂
final advice : buy the Genelec, the Neuman, the kit or the Triangle and with the difference Dickason coockbook to have better basic knowledge as you don't believe me or any of the good trained guys here.
😉
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Why does hornresp give spikes to frequency response curve, if the speaker is deeper than few cm? Seems like it wants wall right behind the magnet.
First test done, lol. Tried one car speaker without a box and then in about 6 liter cardboard box (shoebox). Then I cut reflex port to it. Last one was the best. It was promising already 🤣 Now I can proceed to the next stage.
Might be a stupid question, but I can't find an answer to this. My Pioneer stereo amp is rated for 4 and 8 ohms, and these car speakers are 3.9 ohm woofer and 3.2 ohm tweeter (measured with multimeter). I'm sure that is not a problem, but if I want to play safe, I should use them in series right? Is there any way to connect these in series with this crossover? This crossover is for tweeter only, 2 wires in and 2 wires out, do they change resistance too? If I'm connecting them parallel, the resistance will be below 4 ohms.
Might be a stupid question, but I can't find an answer to this. My Pioneer stereo amp is rated for 4 and 8 ohms, and these car speakers are 3.9 ohm woofer and 3.2 ohm tweeter (measured with multimeter). I'm sure that is not a problem, but if I want to play safe, I should use them in series right? Is there any way to connect these in series with this crossover? This crossover is for tweeter only, 2 wires in and 2 wires out, do they change resistance too? If I'm connecting them parallel, the resistance will be below 4 ohms.
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Does anyone know, what kind on cable my Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen needs for calibration. It has balanced 1/4" TRS outputs and 3-pin XLR input...so should I have balanced cable for that "calibration loop" also? Should I keep that 48V on while calibrating...probably not? There is also this "direct" button, should it be on or off?
And another question, when I connect that interface to my stereo amp (Pioneer SX-777), can I just use headphone output to amp's RCA input, or would it be better to use those same 1/4" outputs? What kind of cables?
And another question, when I connect that interface to my stereo amp (Pioneer SX-777), can I just use headphone output to amp's RCA input, or would it be better to use those same 1/4" outputs? What kind of cables?
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Ok, I'll try to sum this up myself. Apparently there is no way to get any benefit from that balanced output, when connecting Scarlett to stereo amp, so I can use either TS to RCA or TRS to RCA cables. But it's still better to use these outputs because they have stronger signal than headphone connector?
And how I understood it, this TRS to XLR cable can benefit from balanced cable (less noise), but it's not necessary. And no phantom, because there is no mic on this setup. Stupid me.
So I guess the only question remaining is that should I use DIRECT or not while doing that calibration, I guess not.
And how I understood it, this TRS to XLR cable can benefit from balanced cable (less noise), but it's not necessary. And no phantom, because there is no mic on this setup. Stupid me.
So I guess the only question remaining is that should I use DIRECT or not while doing that calibration, I guess not.
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Btw, does anyone have a good cheapskate way to calibrate SPL meter/mic? I thought that maybe I could use pink noise and multimeter to adjust my amp to give 2.83V to my 8ohm Pioneer speakers, which according to specs should give 90dB then. Any thoughts of that?
I found this microphone. It's cheap and should do the trick together with your Scarlett. It's not calibrated but it will get you useful results. Supposedly very linear.
I would invest in a calibrated microphone afterwards when you know you'll be doing this as a hobby.
https://www.gear4music.fi/fi/Nauhoitus-ja-tietokoneet/Behringer-ECM8000-Mittaus-Mikrofoni/2H6
I would invest in a calibrated microphone afterwards when you know you'll be doing this as a hobby.
https://www.gear4music.fi/fi/Nauhoitus-ja-tietokoneet/Behringer-ECM8000-Mittaus-Mikrofoni/2H6
An old Quest CA-12 or CA-15, they can sometimes be found for $20 or so on eBay. But you'll need to find or make a 1" to 1/2" mic adapter. The other option is an old Radio Shack SPL meter.
There are waaaaaaay too many unknowns there to be able to give a useful level calibration. But the good news is that you don't actually need to know what the absolute SPL is for speaker design. I would say not to bother with trying to calibrate that it at this point.
The crossover will change what impedance is seen by the amplifier beyond what 1/R1+1/R2 would suggest, therefore being able to measure and model your design is strongly recommended.
You may not want to buy anything for your "test" project, but if you want better results for your main project, use it as a learning exercise beyond putting some speakers in a box and get some simple test equipment (just a jig to measure impedance and a microphone, really) and a beginners book on speaker design, it will give you some very useful experience that will make the main project turn out much better.
For affordable HT use, you might consider an Econowave kit and paint the box and spray the tweeter horn white. Also find a white metal grille (for example https://www.amazon.com/Facmogu-Ceiling-Speaker-Protector-Replacement/dp/B09WN5JZ3Z?th=1 ) to put in front of the woofer. The cabinet will not look as rounded as a Genelec, but then it is a lot less expensive.
Here is a link to an 8" one ($204 / piece); they come from 6“ （$177 / piece) to big 12" ($281 / piece). Unfortunately they are currently out of stock though I believe they make the horn in batches and it will eventually come back.
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/ht-8-kit.html
You could consider 3 6" or 8" kits for LCR.
Here is someone who made the 8" version. Picture it all white with a white speaker grille. https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/im...2d8-8e8f-47c4-9e78-62d6ec359aa5-jpeg.3308197/
Here is a link to an 8" one ($204 / piece); they come from 6“ （$177 / piece) to big 12" ($281 / piece). Unfortunately they are currently out of stock though I believe they make the horn in batches and it will eventually come back.
https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/ht-8-kit.html
You could consider 3 6" or 8" kits for LCR.
Here is someone who made the 8" version. Picture it all white with a white speaker grille. https://www.avsforum.com/cdn-cgi/im...2d8-8e8f-47c4-9e78-62d6ec359aa5-jpeg.3308197/
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I know you are right about these things, but I'm really going cheapskate way, and try to save every penny with my less important projects. I found used Sonarworks measurement microphone (basically new). It was bit more expensive than Behringer, but came with calibration file. I'm sure it's good enough for me.
Now I'm planning to make this measurement cable, but can anyone tell me, is there some real benefit to make the more complicated one, which I would need to use with my amplifier, or is the simpler one good enough: https://audiojudgement.com/measure-thiele-small-parameters-using-free-software/
My studio computer's integrated soundcard should have stereo microphone input...just in case someone want to point this requirement out.
EDIT: Apparently measurement cable with amp should be bit more accurate...but doesn't the amp quality affect for results?
Now I'm planning to make this measurement cable, but can anyone tell me, is there some real benefit to make the more complicated one, which I would need to use with my amplifier, or is the simpler one good enough: https://audiojudgement.com/measure-thiele-small-parameters-using-free-software/
My studio computer's integrated soundcard should have stereo microphone input...just in case someone want to point this requirement out.
EDIT: Apparently measurement cable with amp should be bit more accurate...but doesn't the amp quality affect for results?
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