Car Stereo to home PC audio or boombox project - issues 3.5mm aux noise - Jaycar noise loop made things worse

Hello,

I bought a used JVC car stereo to use for the computer audio. I currently use one of my Technics amplifers but thought I could use the JVC car stereo for the computer. Another plan, for the car stereo was to create a boom box with it, already have the JL audio speakers for it. If i went the boom box rout i would still need the aux functioning.

Currrently i run my Technics amp through the computer via 3.5mm to rca cable (home made and very good - no issues with it).

The JVC car stereo, was a good buy and unit looks in great condition and came with all the brackets, remote and wiring harness. I was able to power it, etc with a power adaptor, hook up the speakers. I got a cheap 3,5mm to 3.5mm cable - sound was quite slightly distorted and humming noise as in grounding. I put the Multimeter probe into the JVCs 3.5mm aux input to its chassis and i had no continuity.

The ground loop islolator i got, make things worse, it was not the most expensive nor the cheapest -- around 25$.

This is my thought i like to share, and whether or not its possible without harming the PC or JVC stereo. I would ground the earth of the plug to the chassis of the car stereo.

Another thing, could it be the power adaptor as it has a screw terminal and maybe its best i cut and solder the wire.

jvc-car-stereo-either-pc-sound-or-diy-boom-box-ground-noise-v0-s3s1gypeij4e1.jpg

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I have considered using an auto stereo because they support Bluetooth, memory cards, HDFM,... and not a lot of useless stuff you find in "home stereos". I suspect that if you have noise on an aux / 3.5mm input, you probably have ground noise from the power supply. Switch mode power supplies often have poor line filter grounding. The "safety ground" of a SWPS is not just for safety because the Y-cap (etc) filter uses ground as a noise current sink. The lack of a power line ground leaves the switching noise and half the line voltage on the system ground.
 
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What power adaptor you use ? I assume 12v - 14.4v , what Amperage?.

Thanks Bruno, i got it from ebay and quite a cheap one. 12v 5A 60watt. Maybe i should have purchased the 10A version. I have seen some 14v ones, i was sure the car stereos are 14v?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285480305814?var=587422416670
Get or diy a shielded ( cable braiding ) jack cable. that would fix your noise problem. As for distortion I suspect your power adapter does not have enough power.

The CD plays well, why thought it wasnt a power problem, however maybe the aux requires more power. I made up a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable using the Mogami 2944 cable console cable. I have to look at what cable you are talking about.
I don't see a DC connection between any of the 3 terminals in the jack and ground.

What happens if you ground the case of the computer to the case of the head unit? Confirm 0v AC and 0v DC between the chassis of the two components before making the connection.
Thanks Perry for the service manual so it has no dc connection between any of the 3 terminals in the jack - ground. How would i go about confirming 0v dc or ac on each component

@steveu
I am using just a power adapter, like the sorts you got with laptop computers. I got mine from here a 12v5a one, it has screw terminals on the lead as in the below pic
What i thought also, what a great computer system to use the car stereo, compact also and beats computer active speakers etc as its cheaper to set up. Maybe i should have used the old computer power supply its 250w, but old (2007 vintage). Possible to solder the wires and heatshrink over them


This is how ive connected it
P1580834.JPG
 
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Thank you Perry, so ground to the computer case and red probe to the metal chassis of the car stereo (head unit is plastic). I have an old trusty DDM, DC 20v 200v maybe i should set it, so if nothing between them, that means i can ground? both chassis to remove noise? Both units on, but not connected via 3.5mm cable?
 
Could use a battery as a ballast with a high amp charger, its what the power supply in the H/U is designed for
Thanks Harry, that sounds a bit expensive to set up, but that through re car battery did cross my mind. I need it more compact for the boom box , though if i use the computer set up, might be an option

@PerryBabin
Thanks Perry, i havent tested the pc or head unit for voltage yet, but i can put my hands on the metal case of the car stereo when it was playing a cd, which it did perfectly. If i can tough both, that means no voltage and i can attach grounds to both cases
 
Thank you @Perry Babin , both of them powered up, with the 3.5mm cable attached to both? negative probe on metal chassis of head unit and +ve probe on computer case - multimeter set to 20v dc and if i get 0v i can go head and see if grounding both can reduce the noise. I am sure the 12v 5a adaptor is powerful enough to power the headunit as the cd works well
 
Right. 0v between them means that it's safe to connect them together.

5a should easily be enough. Some head units may draw more than that driving 4 speakers to full power but at idle, the head unit won't draw near 5a.
Thanks Perry. I had 0V DC between the 2 components, however the hum was there and slightly distorted sound lacking bass. CD is lovely and crisp, so either the aux uses more power hence maybe it could go to 6A or fault with the aux or the sound setting on the headunit. I has different audio set ups. I fixed the hum issue by connecting a wire to the earth of the aux plug to the case of the headunit, its dead quite

@Harry72
Thanks Harry, CD plays pefectly, so maybe the aux draws more power. I fixed the hum, and on aux sound is tinny and a bit distorted - so curious with the cheap PSU, maybe try their 8amp or so.