Large speakers and EQ, how far have you gotten?

You can do a lot with eq, but the limit will always be how much xmax and what FS your woofer has. You can't get arround that xmax limit without going into distortion (and ultimate into destruction), and tuning way below the fs is often also not a good id.

At this point I'm more concerned about smoothness than dynamic range or lowest possible -3 dB point. For whatever reason, my 6.5" mid woofers have usable output to 20 Hz in my current room. I'm comfortable that 2x 10" subs will be overkill for my low-mid level jazz listening. I have however listened with a sub before and the difference in mid-bass transparency was really outstanding. I want to recapture that by going fully active and high passing my bookshelves.

I just had major home expenses due so this project may be put off longer than I had anticipated.
 
The smoothness is why you need a wide stroke boost, not a peaky boost. For cuts a small frequency band can be good, but not for boosting i think. Adding subs will help, also because you highpass your main speakers, so the woofer is less stressed on the same volume than without that. Just make your crossover not higher than 100Hz to keep the sound image. Below 150 bass is omnidirectional largly, and you need some headroom for the filter.
 
Pioneer SX-1010
Ah - very nice, quality receiver.
I know nothing about the Pioneer speakers so can't comment on them.
I have a question as I contemplate my next stereo speaker build. I'm considering bass modules with 2x 10" Dayton subwoofers
My personal preference is to go for a decent sized woofer, i.e. 12", for example:
https://eminence.com/products/deltalite_ii_2512

It would need EQing for low bass as the Fs is quite high, but the (rising) response is smooth to 2kHz so you could even dispense with the mid, and find a tweeter than goes down to that.

I have something like this as my garage system, 12" eminence Beta 12s + Motorola piezo, and it's an amazingly good combo. These 12" drivers can move a lot of air 🙂
 
There are better drivers today than the Deltalite, like from Beyma (12BR70) or Faital (12FE330) to do such a 2way. They go lower and are a lot cleaner in their response. Not that the Deltalite is real bad, but it's an older driver and tech moved on.

And a 10" (or even smaller) can be enough for most living rooms. I never lack bass with my Scanspeak 10" setup mention above in my living room. But a good 12" won't hurt neighter, as long as it can meet the tweeter (or fullrange) at the right frequency.
 
Man I regret how I typed this. By "sub" here I meant the lowest drivers in a large speaker OR a subwoofer.
This shouldn't change anything because for the purposes of room interaction, they are the same when talking about frequencies around or below the low hundreds since they work together, and we are concerned with the steady state response.

equalizing them separately to overcome room anomalies present in one but not the other.
This is to be expected, and it's usually necessary because their relative interaction over a mode varies between different modes since the room itself stays the same while other things such as wavelength, change. That said, at some modes they may not interact at all.

You can compare the adding of one sub (before and after) to see which modes are better and which are worse.

Well, sometimes these can be assisted with bass traps. The bass traps don't fix the nulls entirely, but they shorten the room ringing time long enough for EQ's to be able to step in.
Damping is not a bad thing, but I don't feel this is a helpful interpretation. I'd also offer that a sub can act to add or subtract, so you already have that power to control the situation.