Has anyone routed a rebate into the insides of the side panels as per (I think) the flat packs. ?
I'm building from scratch and could just glue them in place, but thought about trying this.
I only have basic diy tools and can do one side easy enough probably, but what would be the easiest way to mirror it perfectly on the other side?
Short of a lot of measuring and marking, is there an easier way?
Thanks..
Rik
I'm building from scratch and could just glue them in place, but thought about trying this.
I only have basic diy tools and can do one side easy enough probably, but what would be the easiest way to mirror it perfectly on the other side?
Short of a lot of measuring and marking, is there an easier way?
Thanks..
Rik
We had dados on one side with our flatpaks. Makes them easier to assemble.
dave
dave
Thanks Dave.
The question is, what's the easiest way to make sure the rebates are identical each side, given I only have basic tools.?
I have a tape measure, 4ft spirit level (which I use for a straight line), metal right angle or square, and not much else.
I guess it's just a case of measure 20 times, then cut 🤣
The question is, what's the easiest way to make sure the rebates are identical each side, given I only have basic tools.?
I have a tape measure, 4ft spirit level (which I use for a straight line), metal right angle or square, and not much else.
I guess it's just a case of measure 20 times, then cut 🤣
If you have some spare material, you could cut a piece which lines up with the panel edges, and acts as a guide for routing the rebates. You'd have to measure and cut the guide piece carefully, but it should make cutting the rebates accurately much easier, and they ought to match up nicely.
Many times with various saws and one build in recent times when Santa finally gifted me a suitably large/powerful router. Anyway, that's what adjustable and/or clamped in place metal, lumber, etc., 'fences' are for. 😉
I wonder... with just basic tools/ skills, perhaps it's more productive to set up the table saw to make perfectly square cuts and then set the width once to cut all the internal pieces (anything not a side) to eliminate potential gaps and optimize gluing strength.
if you cut dados for the interior horn, would you rabbet the other pieces into the side edges. or cut several different widths of ply,?
just tossing that out there
if you cut dados for the interior horn, would you rabbet the other pieces into the side edges. or cut several different widths of ply,?
just tossing that out there
Um, no. I think we're straying from the issue in hand here...
I'm ok cutting the pieces out, I was just looking for an accurate way of marking and cutting a rebate for the internal pieces..
😊
I understand that. We're on topic.
I was simply saying that with precisely cut pieces, the need for rebating is reduced or eliminated.
as well, if you butt the other pieces these internal guys need to be a different width. that increases complexity of the build.
just my opinion.
I was simply saying that with precisely cut pieces, the need for rebating is reduced or eliminated.
as well, if you butt the other pieces these internal guys need to be a different width. that increases complexity of the build.
just my opinion.
Ah, ok I get you.
Yes, I see your point. I guess I thought rebating would be a bit more professional, and also add strength to the build.
Perhaps I may be biting off more than I can chew and settle for a flush butt joint. I have after all, only got one shot at it.