personally i much prefer the pro approach
In my specific case i most likely will end with 4 powerful magnets good only as door blocks because their domes have aged badly They are 2" when i measured a 915 Hz fs i almost fainted What a delusion I was expecting at least half that
and they are also different one to the other
however looking around i see that hand coating of soft domes is quite normal
i should try some coating Adding mass the fs should go done I can coat a little and measure
But coating with what ? acrylic paint ? sprayed on the top of the dome ?
this is bad because i was getting a little excited by vintage drivers hunting 😎
Pro approach: you win some you lose some. In a pa setting servicability, weather resistance, eg factor in. Maximum SPL is very important. Other factors less. This doesn't naturally line up with home hifi expectations.
If you add mass to lower Fs then the hf extension will change as well. They won't go up as far as they do with a lighter dome.
What do you mean with "vintage drivers"? What age? In my own definition of "vintage drivers" these are units older than 1965 and I can't think of a vintage dome tweeter. But I understand different people see that different. 😉
If you add mass to lower Fs then the hf extension will change as well. They won't go up as far as they do with a lighter dome.
What do you mean with "vintage drivers"? What age? In my own definition of "vintage drivers" these are units older than 1965 and I can't think of a vintage dome tweeter. But I understand different people see that different. 😉
Hi ! what i meant is that i would be jumping around happy if replacement parts for domes mids and tweeters were available and easy to replace
if i burn or ruin a dome or coil i could keep the magnet and replace only the moving assembly
i guess that magnet should have some value if well built
But the mistake was mostly mine I got the wrong the drivers the first time
i thought that having same 2" dome like the very good ones also the TS parameters should have been similar I am attaching the datasheet of the excellent ones The poor people ATC
The 2nd pair were on speakers i paid just 50 euros totale And they are 3 ways with very good Sipe tweeters and unkown woofers I have not open them yet I am in the audio transplant mode To take quality parts out of speakers mostly vintage to be used for other projects Mix and match
I would also love to mod speakers
👍
i will have to use a tweeter anyway I have at least 20 pairs of different dome tweeters to try Tweeters are the last of the problem
The midrange is the real and only problem Like Latins used to say in medio stat virtus virtue stands in the middle
they meant middle between extreme behaviours of course I use it for audio response
about 50 years or so They were used in Europe by many speakers manufacturers
i would like to try also AR and JBL drivers but usually they are in speakers that still cost a lot of many
For instance there is a guy here selling a pair of speakers from Telefunken using the same cone mid of the dq10 and a very nice Seas big dome tweeters for only 50 euros He has an immense storage of old things I am trying to convince him to let me measure the drivers before buying at a higher price
I love this impedance meter immensely I would measure even my moka machine
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I didn't explain my opinion properly. I agree the oil and iron mixture would conduct heat better than air, but what I meant was that this was not the reason ferrofluid was implemented in speaker drivers, and the thermal effect would be minimal. I took the power handling differences to be due to damping of cone movement, but I do take your point about this and agree it is more likely to be about the coil failing from overheating.
Again, though, the amount of ferrofluid in the gap is very minimal and it is difficult to imagine it conducting much heat. But of course, this is just speculation with no scientific reason. It's me saying 'surely that little bit of stuff wouldn't conduct much heat?'.
To be honest, I probably hadn't thought about it enough. 🙄
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a viscous oil in the voice gap could slow down the displacement of the coil former assembly
Some brands use a titanium former because the titanium move faster up and down in the gap than an aluminum former
Pure titanium is a non-magnetic metal and does not react to magnetic fields like instead Al does
However titanium is a worse heat conductor than Al
The damping can be realized treating the diaphragm or using different materials to make it
Some brands use a titanium former because the titanium move faster up and down in the gap than an aluminum former
Pure titanium is a non-magnetic metal and does not react to magnetic fields like instead Al does
However titanium is a worse heat conductor than Al
The damping can be realized treating the diaphragm or using different materials to make it
there is a video about Raidho speakers where they show clearly the different behaviour of a titanium former vs aluminum former when they move inside the gap in the magnet
also Morel used them
https://www.morelhifi.com/en/technology/titanium-voice-coil-former
also Morel used them
https://www.morelhifi.com/en/technology/titanium-voice-coil-former