As the title suggest..
I built a pair of Pensil 10 cabs for my Mark Audio Alpair 10P.
I built them, over Frugal Horn as they were easier but now I want to know if I'm missing out lol.
My room is 17ft x 13ft. The speakers fire across the shorter side and the staircase is open and directly behind my listening position.
Would Frugal Horns bring much more to the party?
Thanks,
Rik...
I built a pair of Pensil 10 cabs for my Mark Audio Alpair 10P.
I built them, over Frugal Horn as they were easier but now I want to know if I'm missing out lol.
My room is 17ft x 13ft. The speakers fire across the shorter side and the staircase is open and directly behind my listening position.
Would Frugal Horns bring much more to the party?
Thanks,
Rik...
While not the definitive answer you’re looking for; even though both of the rooms available for my audio systems have more than sufficient floor space & cubic volume, the contingencies of harmonious domestic habitation (aka WAF), relegated both the FH3/A7.3 and FHXL/A10.3 to the “sorry, Charlie” category. I’ve been living with Pensils A10.3 in my home theatre, and a variation of a compact footprint MTM 2 way in the living room for over 6 years now. Both are slot loaded within the general MLTL continuum, which gives them more flexible placement options.
That said, during my short duration of fun playtime with the XLs, when furniture could be pulled out of the way, it'd be hard to describe what I remember they “brought to the party” without flowerly audio tweaker verbiage, but something along the lines of larger / fuller bodied soundstage and lower octave weight would be close. Of course it’s been years since hearing the XLs in my room, or directly comparing them to each other.
FWIW, both current systems now employ dual independently DSP EQed subs; mandatory in a home theatre rig, and worth considering in a 2 channel music only system, even one with close to full range mains.
That said, during my short duration of fun playtime with the XLs, when furniture could be pulled out of the way, it'd be hard to describe what I remember they “brought to the party” without flowerly audio tweaker verbiage, but something along the lines of larger / fuller bodied soundstage and lower octave weight would be close. Of course it’s been years since hearing the XLs in my room, or directly comparing them to each other.
FWIW, both current systems now employ dual independently DSP EQed subs; mandatory in a home theatre rig, and worth considering in a 2 channel music only system, even one with close to full range mains.
Yes. This had also crossed my mind.
I neglected to mention I've moved to this system of valves and full range, from a Sony 550ES and JBL L110 combo.
Now that was a party system and one I've lived with for many years.
I do miss the bass, which the Pensil / 10P cannot quite reproduce.
Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and build a pair of FHXL's..
I only fear my woodworking skills may let me down. I know I am capable, but I tend to want to rush things..
Thanks
Two things immediately come to mind:
Are you moving to a tube amp, I won’t ask why - been there, still have one 10yo piece now gathering dust - but rather; what type / power level?
If you’re looking to replace a pair of old JBL party speakers, I’m not sure that the XLs would fill that void. You might rather want to consider adding a pair of small subs (8 - 10”) to your Pensils, and incorporate proper bass management - i.e. high pass the Alpairs and perhaps even EQ the subs. Part of this functionality is built into all modern AVRs, and even some recent integrated 2 channel amps, but the latter part is very easily accomplished with the likes of miniDSP, etc.
It’s all about use case, of course. As I’ve described numerous times, my current HT system is in an approx 340sq ft room and runs all MA drivers in the main bed layer, I’ve got 3 A10.3 in the front LCR row high passed at 100hz, and smaller Pluvia 7 and A6s as surrounds at 120Hz. While my listening levels are quite below 105dB reference, even on the biggest blockbuster smash-em crash-em extravaganzas, I’ve yet to damage any of them.
Are you moving to a tube amp, I won’t ask why - been there, still have one 10yo piece now gathering dust - but rather; what type / power level?
If you’re looking to replace a pair of old JBL party speakers, I’m not sure that the XLs would fill that void. You might rather want to consider adding a pair of small subs (8 - 10”) to your Pensils, and incorporate proper bass management - i.e. high pass the Alpairs and perhaps even EQ the subs. Part of this functionality is built into all modern AVRs, and even some recent integrated 2 channel amps, but the latter part is very easily accomplished with the likes of miniDSP, etc.
It’s all about use case, of course. As I’ve described numerous times, my current HT system is in an approx 340sq ft room and runs all MA drivers in the main bed layer, I’ve got 3 A10.3 in the front LCR row high passed at 100hz, and smaller Pluvia 7 and A6s as surrounds at 120Hz. While my listening levels are quite below 105dB reference, even on the biggest blockbuster smash-em crash-em extravaganzas, I’ve yet to damage any of them.
Yes.
I've had tube amps before the Sony. I've also used class d. The latter lacked "soul" to my ears. Good for some of the more modern electronic music which I do like, but poor in other respects.
The Sony /JBL combo played most things well, but despite playing with many amps, I'd never dabbled with full range speakers.
I understand now, I'll never get the full bottom end with my new combo (EL84 15WPC) Alpair 10P, I was a bit naive in that respect but as I sit here now, listening to FKA Twigs LP1 at low/medium volume, I am really impressed at what they can do.
Anyway, my plans may change now as I've literally just pulled the trigger on a pair of MAOP Alpair 10. 2.🤣
Back to the drawing board....
Personally I think you will really not gain much replacing the Pencils with FHXLs. Your room is on the smallish side which makes placement more of a challenge like Chris said. And the FHXL footprint is quite large.
If you want more bass then subs would be the way to go, again like Chris said.
If you want more bass then subs would be the way to go, again like Chris said.
We’ve all experienced the FOMO / analysis paralysis syndrome - some of us multiple times - but don’t worry, it’ll pass, eventually. 🙂
It looks like you’re in the UK; if you’ve recently pulled the trigger on a pair of MAOPs (loved my MAOP7s of a few years ago), does the dealer have any offerings of sub-woofer kits?
On this side of the pond, there are some great options from Parts Express or CSS. I recently slapped together a second pair to put a set of ancient RFA84 car subs to use, and in the just over 2cu ft ported box that WinISD modelled for them they’re doing just fine. Not having a proper table saw or decent sized shop, they took longer than I was able to achieve before retirement, but then again- retirement without health issues means lots of time to kill, so. 😉
edit: I should also add that I’d be inclined to look at moderately priced 8 - 10” mid-bass drivers such as Dayton or Peerless that are available from SoundImports rather than larger “true” subs. I think you’ll get far better value for your money, as well as they tend to have smoother performance near the top of their usable pass bands, which allows for less aggressive filters. Just my tuppence worth.
It looks like you’re in the UK; if you’ve recently pulled the trigger on a pair of MAOPs (loved my MAOP7s of a few years ago), does the dealer have any offerings of sub-woofer kits?
On this side of the pond, there are some great options from Parts Express or CSS. I recently slapped together a second pair to put a set of ancient RFA84 car subs to use, and in the just over 2cu ft ported box that WinISD modelled for them they’re doing just fine. Not having a proper table saw or decent sized shop, they took longer than I was able to achieve before retirement, but then again- retirement without health issues means lots of time to kill, so. 😉
edit: I should also add that I’d be inclined to look at moderately priced 8 - 10” mid-bass drivers such as Dayton or Peerless that are available from SoundImports rather than larger “true” subs. I think you’ll get far better value for your money, as well as they tend to have smoother performance near the top of their usable pass bands, which allows for less aggressive filters. Just my tuppence worth.
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