Both brands of my current irons have a temperature readout, and set tempt. Plus they can be calibrated.
In this day and age I would have expected this to be standard.
In this day and age I would have expected this to be standard.
Had 2 MX-500's but never got around even trying them (that is what old Wellers do) so I sold them recently. One even had a new tool. I got these to repair but could afterwards keep them. The only complaint appeared to be loose soldering joints.
Information on MX-500: http://colinoflynn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/MX-500P-11.pdf
Information on MX-500: http://colinoflynn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/MX-500P-11.pdf
My Weller TCP is nearly half a century old - I had to replace the heater about 5 years ago.
For about 6 years now, my daily driver is a Quicko T12-952: a slick little machine for about the price of a replacement heater by Weller.
For about 6 years now, my daily driver is a Quicko T12-952: a slick little machine for about the price of a replacement heater by Weller.
That Quicko (what's in a name?) looks good. Is the OLED display still fully OK?
Which of the sets in the link is recommended? They have different tools.
Which of the sets in the link is recommended? They have different tools.
Hi JP,
I use the tiny pencil, model T12-952. That's the third one from the left.
The range of tips is pretty amazing. You should also get the tip thermometer used to calibrate the station to each tip. It works with everything and isn't expensive. These stations heat up pretty quickly. They have automatic temperature setback (idle to 150 °C), then shut down. They have memory for a number of tips, you just select which you are using. I have a few with tips I keep loaded.
After a number of years the display is showing age but is still good. You can get kits for these, so replacing the display isn't an issue. My station is on for about 10 hours a day, sometimes longer. I have left it on by mistake over night more than I like to admit. I can't see the display from where I sit.
I keep my Solomon because it dumps a ton of heat for heavy jobs (chassis work). For really tough jobs I use both stations together. If you need more than that, time for a torch (which I also have).
I use the tiny pencil, model T12-952. That's the third one from the left.
The range of tips is pretty amazing. You should also get the tip thermometer used to calibrate the station to each tip. It works with everything and isn't expensive. These stations heat up pretty quickly. They have automatic temperature setback (idle to 150 °C), then shut down. They have memory for a number of tips, you just select which you are using. I have a few with tips I keep loaded.
After a number of years the display is showing age but is still good. You can get kits for these, so replacing the display isn't an issue. My station is on for about 10 hours a day, sometimes longer. I have left it on by mistake over night more than I like to admit. I can't see the display from where I sit.
I keep my Solomon because it dumps a ton of heat for heavy jobs (chassis work). For really tough jobs I use both stations together. If you need more than that, time for a torch (which I also have).
My weapon of choice is the JBC SL2020. I have that more then 20 years and it still works. Have changed the tip a few times. I recently bought another one of the same type, apart from the color it is identical. The tips are 20 years later still available.
Thank you, although I could have a professional Ersa I maybe will try this chinese tool. Price is very low.
You mean the T12-M8 black metal handle?
Hi JP,
That's the one. I love that small handle. The only annoying issue is lack of a good holder for it. It falls out of existing ones easily.
I may have to DIY an holder. If I do that I'll probably make it hold two handles.
I custom built a handle with a longer cord, I was able to buy the wire in addition to a kit. It works great!
That's the one. I love that small handle. The only annoying issue is lack of a good holder for it. It falls out of existing ones easily.
I may have to DIY an holder. If I do that I'll probably make it hold two handles.
I custom built a handle with a longer cord, I was able to buy the wire in addition to a kit. It works great!
Well, most things are made in China these days, so it often doesn't matter what the name plate says.
Just don't buy something that is more complicated than is really necessary. Any part that can break down will at some point in the future.
My simple soldering iron had its heating element go kaputt after 35 years. I got a new iron that is just as simple. I am hardcore minimalist, so it lays on the table on an upside down saucer.
My simple soldering iron had its heating element go kaputt after 35 years. I got a new iron that is just as simple. I am hardcore minimalist, so it lays on the table on an upside down saucer.
Hi gijser,
Keeping the tip temperature more or less constant under varying load is critical. So is a resistive connection to ground for the tip. So those would be minimal requirements.
The least complicated design where the Weller WCP stations, but those switches often died along with heating elements. They were a very coarse bang-bang type controller, but miles better than a straight hobbyist iron without any control.
The uP controller used in today's irons are pretty simple. They use PWM control today and if made decently, will last ages. My new Chinese stations work far better and have lasted longer than my Weller WPTCN (or whatever the number is) stations ever did. I supported over 10 of these in a production environment, they were always failing. I stocked a lot of parts to keep my guys going.
The analogue controller in the Solomon (Pro'sKit) were the next stations I bought, way better in every way than the Weller (and cheaper). More reliable, adjustable temperature and current temp readout. These new Chinese stations are cheaper, far more controllable and faster heating. Compared to the ones before - no contest. They last and the features are helpful.
If your iron is two wire, you may be injecting AC current into your circuits while you solder. AC leakage currents can kill things, and that may develop at any time.
Simple is not always better or more reliable. Sure it heats and melts stuff, butt there is more to soldering than that.
Keeping the tip temperature more or less constant under varying load is critical. So is a resistive connection to ground for the tip. So those would be minimal requirements.
The least complicated design where the Weller WCP stations, but those switches often died along with heating elements. They were a very coarse bang-bang type controller, but miles better than a straight hobbyist iron without any control.
The uP controller used in today's irons are pretty simple. They use PWM control today and if made decently, will last ages. My new Chinese stations work far better and have lasted longer than my Weller WPTCN (or whatever the number is) stations ever did. I supported over 10 of these in a production environment, they were always failing. I stocked a lot of parts to keep my guys going.
The analogue controller in the Solomon (Pro'sKit) were the next stations I bought, way better in every way than the Weller (and cheaper). More reliable, adjustable temperature and current temp readout. These new Chinese stations are cheaper, far more controllable and faster heating. Compared to the ones before - no contest. They last and the features are helpful.
If your iron is two wire, you may be injecting AC current into your circuits while you solder. AC leakage currents can kill things, and that may develop at any time.
Simple is not always better or more reliable. Sure it heats and melts stuff, butt there is more to soldering than that.
I like the Thermaltronics 9000. You can get big ol' tips for soldering to Speakons, through medium tips for through-hole parts, down to skinny little guys for SMTs. It warms up in seconds, and the hot end stays hot when applied to the work.
I agree about the connection to ground. My Iron does feature that, it is actually a Weller, model ST 40. I guess very outdated.
There is no temparature control, but I have been (amateur) soldering for about 40 years without that, and bad solder joints or fried parts are never the reason for projects fails. I guess it would be nice to have that feature, but to say it is critical?
Yes, it is absolutely an important thing to be in the right temperature range.
I started with irons such as yours. I'll be honest, once going to the Weller, entirely different experience. If you work with electronics you cannot justify the use of a cheap iron. With the costs of these Chinese soldering stations, no one has any excuse at all. Everything is so cheap compared to when I started compared to your wage.
So an uncontrolled 40 watt iron will easily reach temperatures that lift copper pads and burn flux before it works. So while you can usually make good connections or remove things without too much damage, using a proper station is a game changer. You also have the ability to dial in the right temperature for the job at hand. Having different tips is also very nice.
I started with irons such as yours. I'll be honest, once going to the Weller, entirely different experience. If you work with electronics you cannot justify the use of a cheap iron. With the costs of these Chinese soldering stations, no one has any excuse at all. Everything is so cheap compared to when I started compared to your wage.
So an uncontrolled 40 watt iron will easily reach temperatures that lift copper pads and burn flux before it works. So while you can usually make good connections or remove things without too much damage, using a proper station is a game changer. You also have the ability to dial in the right temperature for the job at hand. Having different tips is also very nice.
Ksger t12 for almost 5 years now, sees the light of day at least 10 days a month for half an hour avg. each time, unless it's a bit project requiring several hours. Working as it should. Handle cord got damaged a bit, but a quick fix got it up and running. Easy one of the best 50€ ever spent. Will replace it for 200W one soon, but purely out of want/less of a need.
40w maplins unit here. On my third heating element in 12 years, the most recent is 5 years old. I only use 3mm tips, get amount 2 years out of a tip. It's built 50 + paradise phonostages plus other stuff so it's maybe seen 10,000 components. Not bad for £100 over it's lifespan.
Essentially close copies of Metcal- to the extent that I'm using a Metcal supply with a Thermatronics desoldering vacuum (which is amazing to use). My Metcals are at least 25 years old and working fine. Both are industrial surplus. Fortunately in silicon valley there are lots of startups that don't start and the leftovers are really cheap.