I acquired a nice pair of Ruark Accolades yesterday.
Currently the passive crossovers are external as they were once converted to active ( now passive)
I do intend to put the crossovers back inside or make a nice box and keep them as external.
I have replaced the Alcap capacitors this morning with some Mundorf 5% , looking at the crossover are there any further improvements to SQ that could be made ?
Also I managed to get a schematic which shows 16uf caps at position C5 but there aren’t any on these crossovers ? ( could they be inside ? )
The wire of the 15 Ohm resistor of the voltage divider is dangerously close to the wire of the blue foil capacitor.
Those sand cast resistors typically have some residual inductance that can cause some audible sloppiness in the treble. Replacing with non-inductive double wound resistors is another simple fairly inexpensive step in the right direction.
I'd also be inclined to replace those tiny iron core inductors with some better air core...just be sure to get close to the same DCR with the same inductance. While at it, I'd re-orient their position so they're axis is directed 90 degrees from each other, and/or physically separate them as much as possible to avoid magnetic field interference. All those little things add up and let a speaker become great.
I'd also be inclined to replace those tiny iron core inductors with some better air core...just be sure to get close to the same DCR with the same inductance. While at it, I'd re-orient their position so they're axis is directed 90 degrees from each other, and/or physically separate them as much as possible to avoid magnetic field interference. All those little things add up and let a speaker become great.
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That is indeed better but since they are not in a straight line and are a bit off-set apart a bit it's not critical. But I'm not very happy about the drive-in nut ("Einschlagmutter") directly at the core inductor, there will be a screw in later on too. Keep the inductors away from iron, magnets etc.
Oh, and while we're at it, I'd suggest to fix the heavier parts with a zip tie, the hot glue might decide to part from the parts after a little bump. Best way to do that is probably to drill a hole on both sides of the parts and zip it through, bigger parts maybe on 2 spots. The board doesn't lay flat anymore then but that's not a problem, just glue some 'feet' on from a rest of a particle board onto the back of the xo, 2-3 cm are big enough. That also reduces the vibrations between the xo board and the enclosure by reducing the contact surface.
Oh, and while we're at it, I'd suggest to fix the heavier parts with a zip tie, the hot glue might decide to part from the parts after a little bump. Best way to do that is probably to drill a hole on both sides of the parts and zip it through, bigger parts maybe on 2 spots. The board doesn't lay flat anymore then but that's not a problem, just glue some 'feet' on from a rest of a particle board onto the back of the xo, 2-3 cm are big enough. That also reduces the vibrations between the xo board and the enclosure by reducing the contact surface.
In parallel, caps add. 6.6 + 9.4 is?
A lot of manufacturers use cheaper components in parallel and costlier in series.
A lot of manufacturers use cheaper components in parallel and costlier in series.
Aha !!! Sorry I forgot about the caps in parallel 😁
I bought some Jantzen 16uf 5% caps for these , is it worth changing them ?
I bought some Jantzen 16uf 5% caps for these , is it worth changing them ?
If I had them on hand, I'd definitely give them a try and see....just some added potential. If you don't do it now, it'll be tougher to gather the ambition to try them later on once you've battened down all the hatches and move on.