Come to think of it I still have some 4.7uF /100v standard Black Gate Caps which I could use as a bypass . I just don't know which caps would be suitable to be bypassed by BGs.
The only difference between AN standard and Kaisei is a leadout connection. Copper vs standard steel which can be attached on machine. It's as pronounced difference as orange drops 715 vs 716 series. Interestingly enough I have a few Black Gate caps ( 33uf /160v ) with steel magnetic leadout as well.
The only difference between AN standard and Kaisei is a leadout connection. Copper vs standard steel which can be attached on machine. It's as pronounced difference as orange drops 715 vs 716 series. Interestingly enough I have a few Black Gate caps ( 33uf /160v ) with steel magnetic leadout as well.
Why not try some Silmic or Cerafines if you can locate any. Both seem to bypass well with film. If I was bypassing I may well be tempted to try Silmic but In think this is one of those try and see situations
My experience is that Silmic tend to dry out quickly in hot environments, and temperature was mentioned to be of concern...Why not try some Silmic or Cerafines if you can locate any. Both seem to bypass well with film. If I was bypassing I may well be tempted to try Silmic but In think this is one of those try and see situations
Interesting if you could improve the cooling if the amp runs that hot near the caps, heat sinks or convection or even a 12V quiet fan fed from a separate LPS supply so no sonic impact ? No point in toasting your BG's !
Are you sure these are original? Never seen any Black Gate capacitor with non copper lead wires not even the least expensive STD version. It was one of the key features of BG.Interestingly enough I have a few Black Gate caps ( 33uf /160v ) with steel magnetic leadout as well.
What series are these 33 µF 160V caps? I have 47 µF 160V VK series and these have tinned copper wires as always/usual. Considering BG are obsolete AND were already expensive in their heydays it is only to be expected fake/relabelled stuff is made.
BTW forget paralleling BG to anything else or vice versa.
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I'm sure JP . We went through this a few years ago and I cut one open for you. The amps in question are Audio Note P4 just like pictured but with double C Core OPTs .They still fetch around $10k on used market so cutting anything and installing fan is out of question. As you can ( barly )see the caps sit right next to 300b and hot 5687tubes .
Really? I have had many and still have many and always tinned copper.
Again, which series? The device they are in and its high price say nothing except that the margin is high. Besides that connaisseur category devices are sold many times and often to people that think they can improve them. Parts with jewelry metals and bees wax for instance. As BG sources have long dried up people may try their luck on Ebay etc. Not a quality proof anyway. There are even airplanes serviced with fake parts.
Again, which series? The device they are in and its high price say nothing except that the margin is high. Besides that connaisseur category devices are sold many times and often to people that think they can improve them. Parts with jewelry metals and bees wax for instance. As BG sources have long dried up people may try their luck on Ebay etc. Not a quality proof anyway. There are even airplanes serviced with fake parts.
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https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/black-gates.242741/#post-3653242
Time flies ekh...
Ps.
This time I'm going to ask you for that $35 bucks since I'm much poorer than 10 years ago hahaha
Time flies ekh...
Ps.
This time I'm going to ask you for that $35 bucks since I'm much poorer than 10 years ago hahaha
Same over here. Wallet gets thinner and thinner despite careful ponzi schemes to become wealthy.
That H series was completely unknown to distributors here. Same goes for the somewhat better known F series that was used in Rotel devices. F series were practically identical to STD. The difference was 2 letters less 😀
If H series has steel wires Signor Qvortrup was having a laugh when selling the devices for 10k.
If my debt is still there I can send you a pair of small value BG caps for shipping costs. No legal action then please!
That H series was completely unknown to distributors here. Same goes for the somewhat better known F series that was used in Rotel devices. F series were practically identical to STD. The difference was 2 letters less 😀
If H series has steel wires Signor Qvortrup was having a laugh when selling the devices for 10k.
If my debt is still there I can send you a pair of small value BG caps for shipping costs. No legal action then please!
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It's by design. Only chosen ones are allowed to preserve the wealth and pass it on . Regular Folk must die penniless🙂
Anyway , I see Rubycon ZL series are still available from Mouser and 220uF /100 at $1.44 is not so bad. I think I saw some bipolar 220uF in 100V or 160V variety for not that much more .
Anyway , I see Rubycon ZL series are still available from Mouser and 220uF /100 at $1.44 is not so bad. I think I saw some bipolar 220uF in 100V or 160V variety for not that much more .
If you get some 1mm Copper you could araldite a sheild to the side between the valve and the cap on the outside of the capacitor if it was raised 10-15mm higher it would help cool the cap ?View attachment 1350543
I'm sure JP . We went through this a few years ago and I cut one open for you. The amps in question are Audio Note P4 just like pictured but with double C Core OPTs .They still fetch around $10k on used market so cutting anything and installing fan is out of question. As you can ( barly )see the caps sit right next to 300b and hot 5687tubes .
Making the tile to hang on the wall as we speak.Only chosen ones are allowed to preserve the wealth and pass it on. Regular Folk must die penniless🙂
I'd go for the highest temperature rated caps you can find, so long as its a reputable brand such as Rubycon - don't get phooled into buying "audio grade", that's just marketing talk for "more expensive"...
Arrange for the lowest possible temperature (the passive way) and best possible airflow whatever the electrolytic caps you will be using.
They will have to stay where they are . Big copper coupling caps were moved to the bottom of the PCB . One of them shorted and took the tube and bypass cap. there is no place to mount those bypasses underneath . Audio Note used Panasonic NHG series in cheaper models but they are gone from suppliers as well . New Vishay blue caps have a good reputation as well.
Just a thought, not sure how important the location is regarding inductance but you could relocate the caps with a few cm of copper wire from the board. ? You can do it relatively neatly ? I use removable double sided tape or black glue glue which can be removed if necessary for support. Also it might mean a different physical size is easy to manage
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