I seem to have no sound and no resistance across my tweeter indicating a fault. I've pulled it apart but can't see any issues
Is there much, or any, difference between the NS-1000x and NS-1000m tweeters?
In the event I can't repair this I may need to buy a set from yahoo Japan but the 1000x are difficult to find vs 1000m
Would appreciate any advice!
Is there much, or any, difference between the NS-1000x and NS-1000m tweeters?
In the event I can't repair this I may need to buy a set from yahoo Japan but the 1000x are difficult to find vs 1000m
Would appreciate any advice!
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Hi gilbert-,
By "no resistance", do you mean an open or short?
I did Yamaha warranty with these. They are easy to blow because they have no voice coil former and the heat builds up very quickly. If you have a short, check where the wires cross. If open, check at the solder between the terminals and wire to the vc. Sometimes resoldering that connection can bring back an open.
By "no resistance", do you mean an open or short?
I did Yamaha warranty with these. They are easy to blow because they have no voice coil former and the heat builds up very quickly. If you have a short, check where the wires cross. If open, check at the solder between the terminals and wire to the vc. Sometimes resoldering that connection can bring back an open.
Ah, sorry to not be specific it reads open across the terminals
I've tried measuring VC the other side of where they go under the foam but I think the copper might be coated? I haven't yet tried scraping any off as I'm wary of damaging the thin wire
I imagine resoldering where the wire joins the terminals may be a simple and easy place to start, to ensure that's not a dry joint?
I've tried measuring VC the other side of where they go under the foam but I think the copper might be coated? I haven't yet tried scraping any off as I'm wary of damaging the thin wire
I imagine resoldering where the wire joins the terminals may be a simple and easy place to start, to ensure that's not a dry joint?
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I had some dome tweeters in a pair of Infinity SM40? monitors that went open. When opened the voice coils looked perfect just as yours do. I found that the wire was held down by some clear glue between the terminal and the voice coil. That stuff had apparently chemically reacted with the wire such that the wire had basically dissolved. I figured it out by scraping a tiny bit of insulation off the wire near the voice coil and testing for continuity back to the terminal. You might do the same. The wire may have failed under that foam ring. I was able to save the tweeters by installing tiny jumpers around the breaks.
The NS-1000 M is identical to the NS-1000 except the M is black. The NS-1000 X got new drivers, all of them have new mode names.
Only the woofers can be visually distinguished, the X having a carbon cone (vs paper). I don't know the difference between the tweeters.
NS-1000:
- Woifer 30cm (JA-3058A)
- Mid dome 8,8cm (JA-0801)
- Tweeter dome 3cm (JA-0513)
NS-1000 X:
- Woofer 30cm (JA-3114)
- Mid 8,8cm (JA-0803)
- Tweeter 3cm (JA-0548)
Good idea thanks O
Scratching the wire there to check continuity should be lower risk so I'll try that
What did you use to fix yours? solder or something else conductive?
You have relatively high current and the circuit has to be low resistance in the connection. I don't know if high grade silver paint would do it or not, otherwise solder.
I didn't bother to figure out what the VC wire was, I would think copper but could be wrong. Yamaha may have been so focused on low mass they used Aluminum wire. Given the terminals are soldered to the wire, I'd guess copper wire.
I didn't bother to figure out what the VC wire was, I would think copper but could be wrong. Yamaha may have been so focused on low mass they used Aluminum wire. Given the terminals are soldered to the wire, I'd guess copper wire.
No, it's aluminium if I recall correctly. I've seen a video (YT) for the tweeter repair. It's the NS-1000M though but it should be almost exactly the same for the 1000X.
Special solder, not fun. Aluminum is brittle too.
Under warranty we just replaced them, but I always had a look.
Under warranty we just replaced them, but I always had a look.
I used tiny copper magnet wire and soldered it to jump over the broken segment. It required the USB microscope to get it done as those wires are tiny. Hopefully you have steady hands.
Update, I still can't figure out where the break is in the connection! Frustrating but I may just have to source another set, unless anyone can recommend any repairers ideally in Japan (I'm in Australia but can ship them)