I sold Sonus Faber Signum and put these with Pluvia 7hd and didnt look back
I mean pointing (firing) straight-up or nearly so. See the Photo Gallery (link in my post; I've done many). This projects a floating image above and beyond the speaker(s). Alpair 10.3 is well suited due to its monster high-frequency response being off-axis attenuated (and dispersed) when placed up-firing/omni.
But -- I think everyone is perplexed by your "room" and how/where you usually listened to music. Perhaps floorplan/cabinet-layout would help.
Oops... Sonus Faber!!!! It is a great speaker. Price? Then must Pluvia 7HD be a very great driver.
Yes, great and beautiful speakers. But, I spent almost 20 years with them and other speakers and got tired to watch over them not to get damaged from dogs or flower pots. Also, there is no way to make them sing without strong and high class amp, so for holliday house this is better choise. Had enough of audiophilia. Dont get me wrong, Pluvia is not better, but I dont care any more, it has all I need and even more. At home I have few more speakers but most of the time listening to Alpair 11ms
LeifB60,
I had a pair of FH3 (among other wide-band single driver builds), and with drivers like the Alpair 7.3 or CHP-70.1 (the first gen, not the one with the shelved upper end), paired with a single ended tube amp, the sound coming from the speakers had a deep sound stage and beautiful mid-range; on certain music/tracks the system was very enjoyable.
On the other hand, a pair of Sonus Faber Auditor M speakers were with me for a couple of days; with rock music they did much better in my room, and since lot of the music I listen to is rock, metal or pop, it got me thinking again 2-ways with XO again. Eventually I shifted back to multi-way speakers.
There is no right or wrong - to each to his own. 🙂
I had a pair of FH3 (among other wide-band single driver builds), and with drivers like the Alpair 7.3 or CHP-70.1 (the first gen, not the one with the shelved upper end), paired with a single ended tube amp, the sound coming from the speakers had a deep sound stage and beautiful mid-range; on certain music/tracks the system was very enjoyable.
On the other hand, a pair of Sonus Faber Auditor M speakers were with me for a couple of days; with rock music they did much better in my room, and since lot of the music I listen to is rock, metal or pop, it got me thinking again 2-ways with XO again. Eventually I shifted back to multi-way speakers.
There is no right or wrong - to each to his own. 🙂
What fun. I also just plugged in the 11MS.
That sounds good. Open and detailed. Good dynamics.
For OP, swap meet, Nostromo kit from Logic, that is for take, everithing you need for good price
More be careful. I have touched many MA metal cone drivers. If they get crap on them, a careful use of a microFibre cloth or a Q-Tip cn be used to clean them.
But if you are really worried i would suggest a FR with a plastic cone.
dave
They are very good. But better depends on the context of the system they are being used for. The better driver is that one that suits the specifications/goals of the system.
But MAOP 10 is likely better, but at what cost?
For my kitchen i’d be looking at 4 x CHN-50 + a woofer. If the FR get too natty, they are cheap enff to just get new ones.
And they will do stuff that the Silver mains you have may well be found lacking… and then you are on a whole new journey.
dave
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They are actually copper, they have nor made gold since generartion 1. And silver not grey. Also Gen 1.A pet peeve.
dave
Cindra,
he speakers in Post 42 look lkike Bernie could have build them (a compliment). Are they solid wood? Frugel-Horn Mk3 does drag the most bottom out of the drivers.
dave
he speakers in Post 42 look lkike Bernie could have build them (a compliment). Are they solid wood? Frugel-Horn Mk3 does drag the most bottom out of the drivers.
dave
The $20k CAD Elipsa (not sure the name, there isa bigger one). Inspired these. They do m\some thing better.
dave
Thx Dave. I made them from 18mm okoume ply and finish with wallnut veneer both sides. Rounded edges are solid wallnut
I really like your computer desk up metal dome upfiring speakers, they look awesome.
Here is a thread with photos of the room in question. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/new-kitchen-setup.415463/
Here is another thread about the unfortunate behind-wine-rack- subwoofer, which long story short, didn't work well in the planned position, and will be relocated on the bookshelves as a basic sealed cabinet, possibly limiting output to mostly 50Hz and above to avoid problems with rattling, I plan to just cut it in half and put a new side on it, but that will be in a few weeks now as life is getting in the way of DIY.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...d-i-add-foam-or-something.415573/post-7751386
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Given the kitchen and dining room layout getting stereo the usual way would be hard. So once again I suggest up-firing omni mono/stereo (try BX1) and even this wall-bounce stereo console:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...from-a-single-loudspeaker.200040/post-7681165
As for your long-path sub, adding enough stuffing and bracing ought to tame it (plus automotive 3-layer padding if available). To convert it to a tapered-TL (what I call TLonken), just brute-force insert a long piece of stiff cardboard divider through the driver hole, at a slant, and form a folded tapered line (part of which being the existing Onken-like bent slot port).
By the way my first diy 7L tapered TL rattled window-pane 5ft behind, playing organ I could barely hear....
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...from-a-single-loudspeaker.200040/post-7681165
As for your long-path sub, adding enough stuffing and bracing ought to tame it (plus automotive 3-layer padding if available). To convert it to a tapered-TL (what I call TLonken), just brute-force insert a long piece of stiff cardboard divider through the driver hole, at a slant, and form a folded tapered line (part of which being the existing Onken-like bent slot port).
By the way my first diy 7L tapered TL rattled window-pane 5ft behind, playing organ I could barely hear....
I am intrigued by the images you posted. I like the idea of generating a stereo image from one point source, however in this project, since it is a very awkward positioning on the cabinets, I am going to ignore trying to expand the stereo image in favour of directing sound to the more absorbent dining room area, and just stick with the two speakers angled towards the ceiling in that direction. I ran the simple phone-mic-based 10 band peq room correction from a wiim pro yesterday (it now works with my Android pixel phone, not just iphones) and it sounded pretty good (apart from the internal dac sounding a bit rough).
I am trying to understand what this means. I've googled a bit and it seems someone else trying to understand Onken was encouraged to find 'planet10' and ask him! It seems you guys are famous all over the internet.
Someone said Onken was like a cross between sealed and ported and this is very interesting to me, but I feel like I am wasting people's time trying to understand. Should I just read through forum posts, or is there a book, webpage or video that you recommend so I can understand what is going on with these different designs... or perhaps is there an app simulation?
That said, for that sub design, I unfortunately need to cut it in half or scrap it, as it is too big to fit on the bookshelf, and sounds bad in the only place it will fit (behind the wine rack). I am tempted to try out the cardboard 'tlonken' before I cut it down, but what should I expect from it?
Also, what is 3 layer automotive padding? I saw people using butyl in their cars to block subwoofer sound, but I didn't think it should be used inside a sub? Is the idea to block the sound from coming out of some sides of the speaker, in the case of poor placement like on a cabinet or bookshelf?