I've always defaulted to making the output jack on my headphone amp builds 1/4" and suddenly wondered whether there is a genuine reason to use up so much real estate when a 3.5mm would do the same job.
So as a headphone user, what size output jack do you prefer, and why?
So as a headphone user, what size output jack do you prefer, and why?
The key thing is to use a quality socket that makes reliable contact. Most of the smaller cheap 3.5/2.5mm sockets are intermittent in my experience as they don't have a sprung contact on the sleeve, only ring and tip.
4 pin XLR (balanced). If I am doing SE, it is 1/4", but not the Neutrik locking jack (hate those). I'd agree with Mark that the 3.5/2.5mm are absolute dreck.
1/4" almost always, occasionally a good quality 3.5 (with thread and nut to attach it to the panel) if there isn't much room for a 1/4" and I know the end user only has headphones with a 3.5 plug, but even in that case I'll try to fit a 1/4" and provide an adapter if required. You never know which headphones you'll want to buy in the future.
As for 3.5 sockets without a nut that rely solely on their solder pins for mechanical integrity, I think it's one of the dumbest ideas in the history of electronics, probably 9 in 10 Walkman / Discman / MP3 player I've fixed over the years had one of those torn off the PCB.
As for 3.5 sockets without a nut that rely solely on their solder pins for mechanical integrity, I think it's one of the dumbest ideas in the history of electronics, probably 9 in 10 Walkman / Discman / MP3 player I've fixed over the years had one of those torn off the PCB.
The output jack that correspond to my headphones. If this is 3.5mm, see cabirio's comments. Mark Tillotson, got any recommendations?
The 1/4" to 3.5mm convertors I've seen have been cr*p except for the screw-on ones supplied with modern Beyer headphones. Any recommendations for non-Beyer phones?
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For full sized audio gear, 1/4” (6.35mm). Large effective contact surfaces, and can be used with reducer adapters.
For portable audio, 1/8” (3.5mm). So many headphones use these that it’s worth continuing.
For portable audio, 1/8” (3.5mm). So many headphones use these that it’s worth continuing.
That's a good point to use the smaller jack for portable applications, and I definitely agree about the quality of jack being important for mechanical stability
I am working on an smd headphone amp at the moment, with the goal to make it as small as I can to take up as little desk space as possible. Having a bit of extra space by changing to a 3.5mm would be good to help with the layout, but not if it compromises the longevity or usability.
Hard to find the right balance with design choices!
I am working on an smd headphone amp at the moment, with the goal to make it as small as I can to take up as little desk space as possible. Having a bit of extra space by changing to a 3.5mm would be good to help with the layout, but not if it compromises the longevity or usability.
Hard to find the right balance with design choices!
A 3.5 just isn't satisfying. A 1/4 can offer a tactile experience that adds value. Even a reassuring noise, that's not just a tick. Obviously the panel adds to this, and the whole thing is just an illusion. However people spend thousands on thing that are simply nicer to own. Yet sound no better.
1/4 would hopefully be stronger, despite offering greater leverage. I have come across so many bust 3.5 jacks, I just don't find them much good for anything, except miniaturisation (of reasonable limits)
1/4 would hopefully be stronger, despite offering greater leverage. I have come across so many bust 3.5 jacks, I just don't find them much good for anything, except miniaturisation (of reasonable limits)
When I built my headphone amp, I owned a few different cans, so I chose 1/4" and 1/8" mounted below it. When the phones were connected through the 1/4" the 1/8" was automatically cut off so that there were no weird incompatibilities from using two cans with who knows what impedances.
Attachments
(Slightly off-topic, perhaps)
Might be worth considering some sort of magnetic connector if you are prepared to rewire your 'phones, giving the advantage of being much less likely to be damaged if you walk away without unplugging: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5413
With a 5 connector pinout you have the option of reversing phase too, just wire thus:
L+
R+
GND
R-
L-
Might be worth considering some sort of magnetic connector if you are prepared to rewire your 'phones, giving the advantage of being much less likely to be damaged if you walk away without unplugging: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5413
With a 5 connector pinout you have the option of reversing phase too, just wire thus:
L+
R+
GND
R-
L-
I cut the ends off the headphone cables, install a 4 pin mini XLR and install a 4 socket mini XLR on the head phone amp. BeCu or TeCu contacts depending on the OEM of the connectors. Nice solid connection for the signal path, good quality plug, not overly expensive. Limited to 26AWG wire though, some accept up to 24AWG iirc.
I don’t constantly buy and sell headphones and build my own HP amps so the “incompatibility with other equipment” issue is a moot point for me.
My 2 cents, ymmv etc etc
I don’t constantly buy and sell headphones and build my own HP amps so the “incompatibility with other equipment” issue is a moot point for me.
My 2 cents, ymmv etc etc
I think all headphone users have experienced the sudden stoppage of the head when trying to walk away whilst still attached.. and then the quick look around to see if anyone saw 😁
Those connectors look alright. Only 30mOhm and come in a 3 pin variant for non-balanced designs.
A lot of DAC;s and DAP's seem to have them these days , like the Fiio K11 I just bought.
Not easy to solder , but I like them and completely seperate L and R , "balanced" or not.