The 100 Volt System is nothing I would use for high class customers, which are often used to expensive audio systems. I'm not going to discuss it any further.
For the ambient speaker, I strongly recommend active versions, with the signal delivered on a digital level. A network based system would be even better, but will not fit the bill. The advantages do not justify the extra cost in this case.
There are two main points for this system: It has to be simple/ reliable and high sound quality, even at very low (dinning) level. If a speaker fails, it will not disturb the whole system and can simply be replaced by a new one.
Active speaker take away the problem of expensive, heavy and bulky speaker cable and eliminate power amps. These need space, cooling and service, as they have to be cleaned quite regular if run all night/ all week.
For the sub woofer problem, it is often possible to hide them under stages or function tables. Flying them under the ceiling is another option.
The main DJ system should be some smaller line array. Customers are used to these PA systems as state of the art. Some small PA tops on a stick will look unprofessional and be nothing of a customer magnet.
At this point a professional would engage in some real planing, ask for material used in the building, pictures, mains situation, legal problems like certification and finally do an on site visit with some prelimary measurements. Which makes a professional, guaranteed result a little more expensive.
The thread opener has very little experience with this theme, so he will not know what advice from this forum is useful for him. If he is the owner, this may not be problematic, but if he is some employee or sub contractor, he may dive into very risky waters. You need a strong, experienced partner, not some anonymous amateur guesses from a forum.
For the ambient speaker, I strongly recommend active versions, with the signal delivered on a digital level. A network based system would be even better, but will not fit the bill. The advantages do not justify the extra cost in this case.
There are two main points for this system: It has to be simple/ reliable and high sound quality, even at very low (dinning) level. If a speaker fails, it will not disturb the whole system and can simply be replaced by a new one.
Active speaker take away the problem of expensive, heavy and bulky speaker cable and eliminate power amps. These need space, cooling and service, as they have to be cleaned quite regular if run all night/ all week.
For the sub woofer problem, it is often possible to hide them under stages or function tables. Flying them under the ceiling is another option.
The main DJ system should be some smaller line array. Customers are used to these PA systems as state of the art. Some small PA tops on a stick will look unprofessional and be nothing of a customer magnet.
At this point a professional would engage in some real planing, ask for material used in the building, pictures, mains situation, legal problems like certification and finally do an on site visit with some prelimary measurements. Which makes a professional, guaranteed result a little more expensive.
The thread opener has very little experience with this theme, so he will not know what advice from this forum is useful for him. If he is the owner, this may not be problematic, but if he is some employee or sub contractor, he may dive into very risky waters. You need a strong, experienced partner, not some anonymous amateur guesses from a forum.
..so you are saying you are judging an audio system by how expensive it is? Interesting. The JBL Control which are already in the inventory (or at least planned) most certainly are on the lower end of the quality range, just because they have a JBL badge doesn't make them any better.
Well, someone who got experience with venue PA (or PA in general) knows that amps should be in an amp rack which protects them. If there's harsh enviroment, you can get complete with semi-closed enviroment and air inflow filter, not much more expensive than a open rack. For harsh enviroments you can get them with air conditioned sealed enviroment - expensive though, and not that it's generally suggested anyway. Still, it's all more protection than you can get for active speakers, that's simply not possible. Active speakers don't need less but instead more maintenance than amps. Plus, with each replacement you're paying every time for the amp too. And you still need power cables for the same power and NF cables too. Btw, the weight doesn't matter since they will not (or very rarely) moved. At such lengths of the cables and daisy-chaining or splitting the NF cables you need symmetrical NF cables and buffer pre-amps since having that many speakers on the same NF signal will likely result in a diminished SQ. Even if you just need a handful of these, it's still multiplying the points of failure.
I'm really curious, I'm interested in what active speakers you'd suggest, that choice (I likely have not thought of) might solve a lot of issues.
Oh and btw, the already planned JBL Control 28-1 are not active: You can get them with connectors for 8 Ohm and - you probably didn't know that - a 100V audio transformer too, making it possible to mix 100V and passive (not suggested) or switch from one to the other without buying new speakers.
Small line arrays are not state of the art. Which advantage would they provide?
That's a good suggestion but that will roughly require 1,5-2x the neccessary budget.
I got the distinct feeling that because of the high planned shipping and installing costs, the initial idea to order only from the US but later accepting ordering from EU etc too, we might probably encounter another problem we didn't know about yet. I suspect the venue might be in a hot climate, probably within proximity (maybe 200km?) to the sea. The sea air moisture contains salt, which is corrosive towards electronics and diminishes the lifetime of electronics dramatically, also many metals are affected. I hope that I'm wrong about the location because that complicates the situaton a lot.
If I was designing such a system, I'd want to have volume and bass/treble tone controls for each zone. That basically means a mono amp channel per zone. I'd also seriously consider a 100V system to simplify the wiring for each zone. I guess the reason 100V gets a bad name is because a 100V amp will have an output transformer which may cause more distortion than a standard amp. But is it really that bad? As another poster pointed out, nothing is more annoying than having a speaker right above your head, blasting out music you don't like. So I'd position those ceiling speakers carefully so as not to be sited directly over tables. Another area worth considering is wall coverings (pun intended). Reflective or absorbing material? An active system has the power delivery headache and more complex wiring in the ceiling. At least with a simple string of speakers and central amp, you only have speaker wiring in the ceiling to deal with. If an amp fails, you just pull it out of the rack rather than have to work in a confined ceiling spaces. I agree with another poster that says the DJ system should be considered as a separate design. I'd be asking as many DJ's as possible what their ideal setup would be to get some advice on that one.
Modern 70 and 100 volt amplifiers are transformerless. Some even class D. Then you just need a transformer at each speaker except the DJ mains and subs, which will probably get the power assigned to a whole zone (or two). If a 70/100 V version of the loudspeaker you select is available, use it. Given the power needed in each zone you don’t need “70” or “100” volt specific amplifiers anyway. You are probably feeding each speaker 100+ watts if you want headroom for nice sound, and looking for 5800 total watts in the first place. 70V is 1200 watts at 4 ohms or 600 at 8, 100V is 1200 watts at 8 ohms, or 600 per channel into 4 (bridged mono into 8, which is still a relatively easy load). You also don’t need to load each channel/zone to full power, and that makes life easier on budget amplifiers. Sound contractors know all this and size the amplifiers appropriately. The only reason to use a “100 volt” amplifier anymore is when significantly less than 600 watts is needed or if actual galvanic isolation between the amplifier output and speakers wiring is REQUIRED. Even then a transformerless 100V 200 watt amp won’t cut it.