Power Amp burning smell

[Jolida]

And in what sequenced did you switch the gear off "at noon" (when it was still operational)?

Turned off the power amp first and then the preamp

 

[Jolida]

I have a question. If the problem were to be identified and required soldering, would you be able to do this? Do you have knowledge of circuitry and experience? This is not 'replace the fuse and all is well'. Something bad happened and it will be an involved measure to find the problem.
Just as important will be to find a qualified repair shop!

Yes absolutely. I have been doing a decent amount of DIY in the past. But as you said, I will try to send it to a professional and see if it can be resolved earlier

 

[Jolida]

At this point, the power amplifier needs professional servicing.

madis64 - The power amp's input may be damaged even if it is not turned on.
Ed

Oh my. I also have an SVS subwoofer which is connected via Hi level inputs (speaker cable from the power amp). But I always switch on the sibwoofer in the end. And when this happened, the sibwoofer was switched off at the wall outlet, and I did not even get to turn it on since the amp started whining at start up. Hoping that atkeast the sibwoofer is safe ????? I bought it new last week

 

[Ixnay]

I am sorry to hear of all of this trouble. That is a very good looking amp and has a good company reputation as well. I am sure that the problem can be resolved. It happens to the best of us. Good luck sir. I look forward to a positive update as well.

 

[EdGr]

The subwoofer should be okay.
Ed

 

[Jolida]

I am sorry to hear of all of this trouble. That is a very good looking amp and has a good company reputation as well. I am sure that the problem can be resolved. It happens to the best of us. Good luck sir. I look forward to a positive update as well.

Thank you sir

 

[Jolida]

Just bought a new amp and connected it to my existing B&W 805 Matrix speakers. My God. The Mid/LF driver in both the speakers are not working. Only the tweeters work. The subwoofer connected via Speaker level inputs also works

Had the whistle tone which burnt my Counterpoint amp damaged the Driver or the Network ???? Is it possible? The coil ?

How come the tweeter works then ? Please advice

 

[RM]

It doesn’t use MOSFETs. Garden variety 2SA1302/2SC3281 or its newer brethren. Quite inexpensive.

R

 

[mbrennwa]

Looking at the amount of damage, I'd say it might be best to take it to a professional repair shop or try to source a replacement module.

the power amplifier needs professional servicing.

find a qualified repair shop!

This is diyAudio, right?

Fixing the amp may not be trivial, but should be possible. To get started, find a service manual or schematic of your amplifier. Identify the broken parts on the schematic. Figure out which sections are affected, and what may be the root of the problem by staring at the schematic for a long time. Separate the different amp sections, and test them separately, step by step. Start with the power supply, then input stage, etc. Use dummy loads instead of expensive speakers. Ask here for help along the way.

Fixing your speakers: remove the drivers from the box, disconnect them from the xovers. Measure the DC resistance of the coils to determine if the fault is with the driver or the xovers. Take a good look at the voice coil former from the rear. If the drivers are fine, you should be good replacing the burnt parts on the xover (likely resistors). Otherwise, your may need a bit of support from the manufacturer to replace the drivers.

 

[Jolida]

It doesn’t use MOSFETs. Garden variety 2SA1302/2SC3281 or its newer brethren. Quite inexpensive.

R

The amp has been given to a professional for servicing. I am more worried about my speakers now.

 

[Jolida]

Fixing your speakers: remove the drivers from the box, disconnect them from the xovers. Measure the DC resistance of the coils to determine if the fault is with the driver or the xovers. Take a good look at the voice coil former from the rear. If the drivers are fine, you should be good replacing the burnt parts on the xover (likely resistors). Otherwise, your may need a bit of support from the manufacturer to replace the drivers.

Inspecting the drivers can also be done by checking the resistance on the positive and negative terminals of the driver? Say if it reads around 4 ohms, then I hope the driver if just fine and I should move to the Crossover?

I had done this a few months ago when I had a bad solder at the Crossover board of the LF driver. From what I remember, the Crossover for the LF had only one coil and one Capacitor and nothing else. As for the coil, I need to see if there is continuity from one point to its other and if it is, then it's good? Same for checking the capacitor?

 

[mbrennwa]

Inspecting the drivers can also be done by checking the resistance on the positive and negative terminals of the driver?

Yes, that's the idea. It's also a good idea to check if the DC resistance is about the same for the LF drivers.

As for the coil, I need to see if there is continuity from one point to its other and if it is, then it's good? Same for checking the capacitor?

Yes for the inductor, but not for the capacitor (which should block DC).

 

[Jolida]

Then how do i inspect if the capacitor is working fine ?
From your experience, and knowing what happened to my electronics, what do you suspect? Which is more likely to have blown (the driver, or the coil or the capacitor) ?

 

[mbrennwa]

I'd expect the cap to be fine because it does not dissipate heat. Can't predict the failure you have, but it should be easy for you to check.

 

[wg_ski]

If the tweeter didnt blow the offending signal must have been low enough frequency not to get through the high pass filter. The woofer’s coil will blow long before the crossover choke will. Nothing will happen to the 6 uF cap either, until the woofer is already smoked.

 

[Jolida]

Checked the woofers. They measure 0.2 ohms. Looks like the voice coil is cooked

 

[edbarx]

0.2 Ohms measured with an inexpensive multimeter is practically a short circuit. Unless you are using an expensive bench multimeter, the real resistance is lower than what is read. Try shorting the test leads together and you will see the reading will not be zero.

 

[wg_ski]

It should be painfully obvious that 0.2 << 8 (or any reasonable DCR value). Doesn’t even matter if the meter has ever been calibrated, you have your answer.


Painful meaning you are probably going to be stuck paying list for replacement woofers.

 

[edbarx]

Let me rephrase what I wrote: 0.2 Ohms is clearly too low a resistance for an 8 Ohm woofer. This means, the woofer has to be replaced.

 

[vukhoa]

you have a Counterpoint solid 1E power amplifier that I have and I want to restore it. I really hope you can help me with information about some components so that I can replace and buy them.
The transistor component parameters have been lost and there is no information like the transistor:
Q2; Q3; Q4; Q5; Q6; Q7; Q9; Q11; Q12; Q14; Q15; Q17; Q18; Q19; Q20; Q21; Q22; Q23; Q24
If you have information about the above transistors or the circuit diagram of the Counterpoint solid 1E power amplifier, you can send it to me.
I look forward to your help.
Thank you very much.!!!!!!!