As the title insinuates I need some lessons on the difference between cap, inductors, and resistors.
I know quite a bit about circuits but I always just grab whatever spec part I happen to need off of digikey when I need something.
I see things listed as "audio grade" which I assume to be total BS considering "audio grade" resistors are only 5%ers. I can get a better resistors for $1.50 at 1% from digikey.
Couples things I do not know is what the different is between caps. For example, the difference between a non polar one and a polar one. Is one better?
The difference between the inductors I also do not know. For example, is there an audible quality difference between an air core, copper foil, or iron core inductors?
If anyone can take me school on the specifics of these differences I am all ears because I really do not know.
I know quite a bit about circuits but I always just grab whatever spec part I happen to need off of digikey when I need something.
I see things listed as "audio grade" which I assume to be total BS considering "audio grade" resistors are only 5%ers. I can get a better resistors for $1.50 at 1% from digikey.
Couples things I do not know is what the different is between caps. For example, the difference between a non polar one and a polar one. Is one better?
The difference between the inductors I also do not know. For example, is there an audible quality difference between an air core, copper foil, or iron core inductors?
If anyone can take me school on the specifics of these differences I am all ears because I really do not know.
Look for a used copy of the Art of Electronics, second edition. It goes into much detail about parts.
In my opinion, resistors intended for use at audio frequencies do not have to be of "special" construction. At radio frequencies requirements may differ.
A non-polar capacitor can be connected either way round in a circuit, whereas a polar capacitor must be connected to match the polarity of the voltage the circuit imposes upon it. For example, the plus terminal on a polar capacitor must be connected towards the positive side of the circuit. Non-polar capacitors are typically used in loudspeaker crossovers as they are subject to an alternating voltage signal. Polar capacitors can be made in the very high capacitance values required in, e.g., the linear power supply of an amplifier.
Air core coils wound with a suitable gauge of copper wire are able to perform the required electrical function. Iron core coils are used to reduce cost when the inductance value has to be large, as in the bass filter of a woofer. The downside is that some distortion may be introduced in the bass when it is played at high volume. As for foil type inductors, they may have some audible qualities that some audiophiles can distinguish. I doubt if I could!
A non-polar capacitor can be connected either way round in a circuit, whereas a polar capacitor must be connected to match the polarity of the voltage the circuit imposes upon it. For example, the plus terminal on a polar capacitor must be connected towards the positive side of the circuit. Non-polar capacitors are typically used in loudspeaker crossovers as they are subject to an alternating voltage signal. Polar capacitors can be made in the very high capacitance values required in, e.g., the linear power supply of an amplifier.
Air core coils wound with a suitable gauge of copper wire are able to perform the required electrical function. Iron core coils are used to reduce cost when the inductance value has to be large, as in the bass filter of a woofer. The downside is that some distortion may be introduced in the bass when it is played at high volume. As for foil type inductors, they may have some audible qualities that some audiophiles can distinguish. I doubt if I could!
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Well different parts for different tasks. A capacitor that's good for audio coupling would be poor at high frequency filtering.
While 'audio grade" is just marketing. Better to source from major commercial /industrial manufacturing.
While 'audio grade" is just marketing. Better to source from major commercial /industrial manufacturing.
There isn't a lot of difference. There exists so much more important aspects than the used components when it comes to system performance. Most of the differences are really frequency response deviations and these can be easily fixed by DSP equalisation. If you use active drive per speaker + DSP crossover and EQ you'd don't need one single of the components you worry about 😉
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I use audyn tri ref caps in my speaker xover.they sound fabulos and yes the sonic diff between audyn and a cheap plastic cap is night and day.if you cant hear the difference sonically then save your money. Diy audio is about your choices and there are lotts of experts out there.
Love this. At least now I know I canuse cheap caps off digikey.
Thanks for this
Love this. At least now I know I canuse cheap caps off digikey
I did see that even digikey had them separated into different categories. One of those being "audio"Well different parts for different tasks. A capacitor that's good for audio coupling would be poor at high frequency filtering.
While 'audio grade" is just marketing. Better to source from major commercial /industrial manufacturing.
There are differences in the construction of the parts that would make some parts better suited to audio than others. The differences all come down to physics.
+1 for The Art of Electronics. The first few chapters describe the nonidealities of parts pretty well.
Tom
+1 for The Art of Electronics. The first few chapters describe the nonidealities of parts pretty well.
Tom
Manufacturing with values and properties useful for typical audio circuits is not the same thing as proclaiming them to be “audio grade”.I did see that even digikey had them separated into different categories. One of those being "audio"
That book is $100There are differences in the construction of the parts that would make some parts better suited to audio than others. The differences all come down to physics.
+1 for The Art of Electronics. The first few chapters describe the nonidealities of parts pretty well.
Tom
And worth much, much more... probably the single best reference on electronics there is. Get the 3rd Ed if you are going to pay for one; the 2nd can easily be found as a free PDF.That book is $100
I hate trying to use PDFs for reference. I’d go back to a stack of data books if I could.
The $100 is better spent on a book than a capacitor. I wouldn’t spend $100 on a 22,000uF/100V soup can when one is called for.
The $100 is better spent on a book than a capacitor. I wouldn’t spend $100 on a 22,000uF/100V soup can when one is called for.
Personally, I think one of the best features of the AoE is that it addresses what happens in real world applications, not just the perfect theoretical models that tend to get taught in classes. A typical EE course will teach you what should happen - AoE will teach you why it doesn't and what to do about it.
Many library systems could locate a copy of The Art of Electronics for you.
And editions of this book are decades old. Look for used copies.
And editions of this book are decades old. Look for used copies.
Which are wholly subjective results - which apply only to the imagination of the one doing the reporting and are therefore completely useless to anyone else. I'm fairly sure the OP was looking for practical, objective differences between components, not floobydust (RIP: RAP)
Free PDF is more my styleAnd worth much, much more... probably the single best reference on electronics there is. Get the 3rd Ed if you are going to pay for one; the 2nd can easily be found as a free PDF.
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