My main issue is primary with dB range manufacturers of speakers use. In order for their product to look better, they choose very wide dB range. Tang Band and MarkAudio are good examples.
The record so far widest used dB scale to demonstrate how good the speakers are was -60dB to +180dB.
Seriously, post #38 two very different measurements, which one is closer to being correct/useful? 18cm distance barely satisfies radiating diameter condition and barely misses baffle width condition, so assuming 22cm isn't too different from 18cm is that chart preferred over the 1m?
OM-MF4 is a supplement to an audio magazine, and in its production article, it was measured at 18cm.
So I measured at 18cm and 100cm.
In an anechoic room, 1 meter is sufficient.
If you are not in an anechoic room, it is also effective to measure at a short distance where the effect of reflection is minimal.
Especially in the vicinity of the duct opening, it is easy to understand the sound tendency.
Flexible thinking will lead us in the right direction.
So I measured at 18cm and 100cm.
In an anechoic room, 1 meter is sufficient.
If you are not in an anechoic room, it is also effective to measure at a short distance where the effect of reflection is minimal.
Especially in the vicinity of the duct opening, it is easy to understand the sound tendency.
Flexible thinking will lead us in the right direction.
May I suggest adding another divider board at an angle to make a longer, tapered TL. (In pieces if done through the driver hole; insert then flip/rotate into position.)
I cut the pieces slightly narrow and edge them with foam gasket tape, so when inserted/flipped/rotated into position the tension will hold them securely in place. Also bracing between boards and 3-layer automotive padding on the face behind the driver.
(Search for TLonken Mark Audio Evansound, or TLonken Supravox.)
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Ok, so you mean something similar to what nandappe have sent two days ago. The one on the right in this picture
I haven't yet made nandappe's design so I can't answer. TLonken is basically a classic folded tapered/stepped TL design with quarterwave resonance (eyeballing above picture/dimensions, about 50hz).
The microphomne should be placed in the far-field (just far enuff away for the drivers to integrate) and then normalized to 1m. ref Toole (at a minimum)
dave
I have made 3 sets for OM-MF4 (CHN40): an Ontomo-Mook version of the photo, a modified version, and the original version.
What is the best for you? The best ratio quality/dimensions? I have a little space and the size is very important.
I have to connect them to a PC set on my desk, with this amplifier https://www.amazon.it/dp/B071S6ZWRQ?tag=librinewsgia-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
+ Mediamonkey software.
That amplifier is overpriced. And it's old...the micro case is no more appealing, everyone now knows the wonders of class D amps...and that one needs DC to work ...no duty taxes because it's unfinished.
For 50€ you get a used Japan amp from the '90s... search for the one with electronic switches at the input eh eh...
For 50€ you get a used Japan amp from the '90s... search for the one with electronic switches at the input eh eh...
For desktop use, I recommend HB-06F-ML, which is small but produces sufficient bass.
Drivers such as Peerless PLS-P830985, Wavecor FR070WA05, and CHN40 can be used.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...2-5-full-range-hb-06f-ml-mini-speaker.411882/