Biamp. Or a full 6 dB of baffle step compensation.
Or use A5.2/3 or largerm if you are going to try do a passive.
dave
Or use A5.2/3 or largerm if you are going to try do a passive.
dave
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/lo...rkaudio-chn-40-silver-8-ohm-78-4-95-8-mm.html
They appeared in Europe
They appeared in Europe
Also at soundimports. But that’s just a joke because not available before spring. 😂😂😂
Finally I was able to order four of them at Soundimports just a few minutes ago. I‘m really looking forward to these.
I got them today 👍 Unfortunately I can do anything with them because I‘m ill 🤒😢
Not even unpacked yet…
Good morning, I’m trying to make this loudspeakers using the wood as in this video:
I have a table saw and it would be a satisfaction to build them by myself.
May I ask you some suggestions?
1) Could you help to find the dimensions of the pieces to cut? Everything I found is only written in Japanese. Only the main dimensions and the thickness should be enough
2) I live in Italy, do you suggest to use the original Mark Audio OM-MF4 as driver or to buy something compatible?
I thank you very much for the help
May I ask you some suggestions?
1) Could you help to find the dimensions of the pieces to cut? Everything I found is only written in Japanese. Only the main dimensions and the thickness should be enough
2) I live in Italy, do you suggest to use the original Mark Audio OM-MF4 as driver or to buy something compatible?
I thank you very much for the help
Ohh Nandappe you are great! Thank you.
If the drivers are the same, so I think to buy the CHN-40 from this site: https://www.costruireaudio.com/index.php?route=checkout/checkout at the price 48,16€ shipping included. The other components (loudspeakers connection and insulation) from Amazon.
If possible I think to increase a little bit the thickness of the external panels (front and side to 12-13 mm) in order to have more wood for the router work on the front edges. I hope that leaving the internal dimensions as the project, this change will not make the sound worse.
If the drivers are the same, so I think to buy the CHN-40 from this site: https://www.costruireaudio.com/index.php?route=checkout/checkout at the price 48,16€ shipping included. The other components (loudspeakers connection and insulation) from Amazon.
If possible I think to increase a little bit the thickness of the external panels (front and side to 12-13 mm) in order to have more wood for the router work on the front edges. I hope that leaving the internal dimensions as the project, this change will not make the sound worse.
Thicker baffles and sideboards would be a good idea.
Ontomo-Mook's labyrinth bass reflex has poor bass, so you may want to boost it with an equalizer.
I made a hyper bass reflex.
Ontomo-Mook's labyrinth bass reflex has poor bass, so you may want to boost it with an equalizer.
I made a hyper bass reflex.
Very interesting. Do you suggest me to follow your improvement?. Is it a subwoofer or I have to modify the original project?
Yes the frequency is better. Perhaps a little more difficult to make because of the angle. I have to think ho to do it with my instruments.
Watch out for different dB scales. 0 to 100 dB, and -20 to 100 dB. They should make both scales -1000dB to +1000dB and they would be very flat.
Just the distance from the microphone to the speaker changes a lot.
Here is a graph of 18cm and 100cm on the OM-MF4.
The measurement microphone should be placed 1m infront of the speaker, when on axis measurements are taken.
The range on Y axis should be 50 dB.
The range on Y axis should be 50 dB.
'Should?' Jeff Bagby and John Krutke (Zaph) to name two would disagree. 😉
Except for larger loudspeakers with drivers spread over a large baffle area (or wide baffle types), 1m tends to result in excess resonances from room modes. Since farfield starts from roughly 3x-5x the effective radiating diameter away, that's usually a better point to measure from, providing it's also at least twice the baffle diameter to properly show step-loss. It doesn't provide a normalised 1m SPL value, but you can level match if necessary.
Except for larger loudspeakers with drivers spread over a large baffle area (or wide baffle types), 1m tends to result in excess resonances from room modes. Since farfield starts from roughly 3x-5x the effective radiating diameter away, that's usually a better point to measure from, providing it's also at least twice the baffle diameter to properly show step-loss. It doesn't provide a normalised 1m SPL value, but you can level match if necessary.