I thought it was all done when you posted that 🙂 and you were looking elsewhere for details.
The connections on the board did look straightforward enough though... have you tried wiring it up?
I found some instructions on another site, but my meter has 2 wires instead of 4...what do I need to do to hook them up?
I meant no one responded on the website that I purchased them from.
Now I found some instructions and I tried this...
I hooked up the red and the green in the above picture (it is the positive and the negative) to the round piece on the back of the VU Meter. I wired it as the above pictur we was for a 4 wire, but only used the positive and negative.
I then hooked up the high and ground up for one channel use (speaker use)
I tried it with no power and then tried it with a DC Volt generator and set it to 12v
Still nothing..
A simple moving coil meter will not deflect with AC voltage, they only indicate DC.
Wire it up like this.
1/ Connect a 12 to 15 volt DC supply to the two terminals marked AC10-15v. The polarity does not matter.
2/ Connect the meter to the board terminals. There are four pins per channel here so you must locate which pins to use. Could two of the four be to supply power to illumination on the meter?? You must look and figure that one out.
With the power supply ON and the meter NOT connected carefully measure and see if either the two outer or the two inner pins carry voltage for the illumination.
The meter must be connected to pins with NO DC voltage present. If you apply high DC to the meter you could damage it.
3/ Apply a line level signal here and the meter should work.
Wire it up like this.
1/ Connect a 12 to 15 volt DC supply to the two terminals marked AC10-15v. The polarity does not matter.
2/ Connect the meter to the board terminals. There are four pins per channel here so you must locate which pins to use. Could two of the four be to supply power to illumination on the meter?? You must look and figure that one out.
With the power supply ON and the meter NOT connected carefully measure and see if either the two outer or the two inner pins carry voltage for the illumination.
The meter must be connected to pins with NO DC voltage present. If you apply high DC to the meter you could damage it.
3/ Apply a line level signal here and the meter should work.
A check for a faulty driver board, that's all.
Yes, of course, through a rectifier ... Or is it possible to check the coil using a multimeter, just like we test a speaker with a small battery ?
Exactly what I meant. The meter and the board are separate things, bundled together by the seller. It is necessary that you need to find out how to use the meter without the supplied board, say using another source. Then maybe wire it to the board and see if you can retain the same function etc.
A DVM on diode range should move the meter hard over but not cause damage. So that can be used to identify the meter terminals and meter polarity.
I just got this from the vendor... I must hook up all 4 wires...2 need to be soldered. I will try this when my friend comes over to solder for me,
I read that the low is used for after a preamp and the high is for after the power amp (speaker wires). I have the wires correct for the blue terminals. I just need to get the wires on the white plugs run to the proper points and soldered. I will post pics of what works once we get them soldered. It will be awhile as I am building 6 amps and do not want to waste my friends time coming over for only 2 amps. I appreciate everyone's help very much!