When you want to ship overseas, you keep it strong and impact resistant obviously, but as small and as light as possible. I am soon to send a pair of tweeters across the water. The cost is astronomical as you go up in size and mass. Hmmm... nothing around the right size at home but there is some large cardboard boxes in the basement. This is what happened.
Measure what you need, lay it out and cut it up.
Figure out how you are going to protect the contents on all six sides
Go to work with your box cutter and tape.
The inner box has a pair of Aurum Cantus G3Si tweeters. Top and bottom are the foam board sandwiches and sides use cardboard rolls in the sandwich.
Bon Voyage my precious little ones.
Measure what you need, lay it out and cut it up.
Figure out how you are going to protect the contents on all six sides
Go to work with your box cutter and tape.
The inner box has a pair of Aurum Cantus G3Si tweeters. Top and bottom are the foam board sandwiches and sides use cardboard rolls in the sandwich.
Bon Voyage my precious little ones.
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So, your tweeters will have flown the nest? Let's face it, Cal, you can't keep them wrapped up in cotton wool for ever!
Making a big box into a smaller box is a great idea. I found this handy net on the 'net. 🙂
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Excellent Galu.
You can see my diy is similar but seems to have the wrap around tabs at different locations. Other than that, it's good to know your diagram is available to us all. Perhaps I should have googled, but it also looks like I did, what I should have.
Not bad for a rookie 🙂
I am pleased with my impact bumpers. I sure hope they do the job.
Tweeters are back home. After getting the postal quote, I am concerned.
Not sure why the pics seem to have come out it the order they did. I put them chronological but...
You can see my diy is similar but seems to have the wrap around tabs at different locations. Other than that, it's good to know your diagram is available to us all. Perhaps I should have googled, but it also looks like I did, what I should have.
Not bad for a rookie 🙂
I am pleased with my impact bumpers. I sure hope they do the job.
Tweeters are back home. After getting the postal quote, I am concerned.
Not sure why the pics seem to have come out it the order they did. I put them chronological but...
Strange! The pics were in a logical order when I first looked. I believe I was the first to view them.
Cal, not trying to be pedantic, but drawing on shipping of literally 1000's of boxes.
Looking at the attached, those filling parts on the sides can (and often do) move sideways with transport vibrations. So they end up in the corners and the center package then may move, with possible damage. The corner cavites should be filled to fix the side fill elements. Just my € 0.02.
But your construction is far better than many I have received ...
Jan
Looking at the attached, those filling parts on the sides can (and often do) move sideways with transport vibrations. So they end up in the corners and the center package then may move, with possible damage. The corner cavites should be filled to fix the side fill elements. Just my € 0.02.
But your construction is far better than many I have received ...
Jan
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I have done this a zillion times.
Rarely have i had to mark out such a box. I had enuff boxes so that i could choose one that could be easily modified to fit.
Lots of ways to create the space needed between item and outside world.
One of the sinister ways the contents are damaged. If the box gets dropped, it is likely to fall on a corner, i maximize corner strength. But the impact causes a concusion which can affect delicate parts. If you are packing an almico driver with a slug magnet, make sure it cannot move. And when shipping drivers mounted in encloures i short the inputs. This creates an inherent damping force to minimize cone motion if it gets banged.
https://frugal-phile.com/pack.html
I probably have lots of other tips.
dave
Cal: hope you don’t mind my adding another word tot he thread titletop make it clearer what we are taking about
Rarely have i had to mark out such a box. I had enuff boxes so that i could choose one that could be easily modified to fit.
Lots of ways to create the space needed between item and outside world.
One of the sinister ways the contents are damaged. If the box gets dropped, it is likely to fall on a corner, i maximize corner strength. But the impact causes a concusion which can affect delicate parts. If you are packing an almico driver with a slug magnet, make sure it cannot move. And when shipping drivers mounted in encloures i short the inputs. This creates an inherent damping force to minimize cone motion if it gets banged.
https://frugal-phile.com/pack.html
I probably have lots of other tips.
dave
Cal: hope you don’t mind my adding another word tot he thread titletop make it clearer what we are taking about
Dave, may I presume you would also recommend shorting the terminals of an individual driver being shipped on its own?
I'm thinking of the likes of the 12" driver I'd like to put up for sale at auction.
Double boxing, lots of bubble wrap and poly shapes (at work we call them cheesy wotsits) - the poly shapes are stuffed in tightly to make it difficult to deform the outer box. I try to make it so it could be used as a football (socker ball), as UK postmen have a "reputation" - a work colliegue had many (often very rare) CDs smashed. I like to wrap neatly in brown paper as the final layer, and sellotape over the address to make it water (rain) proof. Also stick "fragile" tape on all sides.
That reminds me of the company that sold mirrors, but they kept getting broken by the delivery people, they tried more and more packaging, but nothing worked, so they asked some guy to help, he told them not to use ANY packing, and it worked; the delivery people saw that they were carrying mirrors, so they were more careful.
Edit - I was responding to the egg picture, but I guess it works equally well for the bashed fragile box....
Edit - I was responding to the egg picture, but I guess it works equally well for the bashed fragile box....
It won’t make as much difference, but you could. I usually live with the factory box, not had a failure in transit. I haven’t had a failure in transit since i discovered teh alnico thing.
dave
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Sucks for packing IME. I have recieved quite a few drivers that counted on this working, but the drivers arrived damaged. No signs of external box trauma.
It is impoirtant that the contents cannot move around inside the box..
dave
I have a buddy who is a world class glass artist. Like a mirror, glass. For shipping a triangualr box with an obvious base and the glass vertical. He has had to fix many works not properlky packaged.
dave
That's my "final inspection" test when packing something; I shake the box. Feels sold? Good to go.
Jan,
all criticism is good criticism. So many persons think negative criticism is the only kind. I say they are thin skinned. Yours is always welcome.
I know my photography skills are bad but I did only a temp attachment at the corners when loading the top, bottom and side impact units so I was able to tension it when doing the final taping. The box is actually a bloated square. I hope that helps overcome the chance of slippage and is the reason I did it this way. The reason I used the top and bottom 'crumple zone' foam core layers was because I could not achieve the same thing in the other plane.
The corner reinforcement, does have the extra layer of tab but I chose not to add anything more as it would have meant altering the lid.
Remember, I am new at this and just had a shipload of fun building a box out of something other than wood. 🙂
With heavy items with fixing points such as a speaker driver I screw it to a bit of pallet wood so that the wood is the same size as the base of the box. Some drivers may need spacers but it stops any bits of packaging getting into the cone where it may dent the dust cover.
When mail bags were shipped by train you used to be able to watch them loading and unloading the mail car.
The throw distance was the width of the platform plus the width of the mail car.
The new throw distance it the from the tail gate of a truck yo the back of the cab.
Wood survives traumatic shipping even better than the truck that is carrying it.
Deroofed!!!
When mail bags were shipped by train you used to be able to watch them loading and unloading the mail car.
The throw distance was the width of the platform plus the width of the mail car.
The new throw distance it the from the tail gate of a truck yo the back of the cab.
Wood survives traumatic shipping even better than the truck that is carrying it.
Deroofed!!!
My understanding of the word FRAGILE on a box is that it is usually translated to “break it gently” 😀.
I worked part of my way through college for a company that built custom travel crates for museum and gallery exhibitions…accounts with the Met, Guggenheim etc.
Even if we had to cut costs and only had a budget for cardboard boxes on local travel shows one thing we never used was styrofoam popcorn. All it does is shift and allow contents to be damaged.
All the fancy double boxing, space buffers and suspensions are fine, but if your idea fails and the inner structure shifts you’re most likely screwed.
Nothing beats a custom shaped interior of poly-foam. Different grades and density were used depending on the objects packed.
Minimum padding thickness are pretty much common sense (minimum of 2 inches in every direction) but increase with weight of objects obviously.
Even if you have to resort to cheap foam rug padding built up in layers from Home Depot you’re better off than using any materials that can shift or collapse.
We secured all interiors with hot glue guns. A membrane (read plastic bag and/or acid neutral paper was used against objects.
I’ve never had an item I’ve sold and packed get damaged no matter how beat up the box was.
Even if we had to cut costs and only had a budget for cardboard boxes on local travel shows one thing we never used was styrofoam popcorn. All it does is shift and allow contents to be damaged.
All the fancy double boxing, space buffers and suspensions are fine, but if your idea fails and the inner structure shifts you’re most likely screwed.
Nothing beats a custom shaped interior of poly-foam. Different grades and density were used depending on the objects packed.
Minimum padding thickness are pretty much common sense (minimum of 2 inches in every direction) but increase with weight of objects obviously.
Even if you have to resort to cheap foam rug padding built up in layers from Home Depot you’re better off than using any materials that can shift or collapse.
We secured all interiors with hot glue guns. A membrane (read plastic bag and/or acid neutral paper was used against objects.
I’ve never had an item I’ve sold and packed get damaged no matter how beat up the box was.