@electricboyo
@mooly
@ManoloMos
I soldered in the 4.7uf electrolytic I had in the right size - that made no difference.
Next I will try the pot the other way, but when I did this before, I didn't get spin up on loading, which I took to mean the current dropped so far that there was no reflection.
It will take me a little time now to source some of the correct size capacitors - bear with me until I try get and fit these. All your help is greatly appreciated.
@mooly
@ManoloMos
I soldered in the 4.7uf electrolytic I had in the right size - that made no difference.
Next I will try the pot the other way, but when I did this before, I didn't get spin up on loading, which I took to mean the current dropped so far that there was no reflection.
It will take me a little time now to source some of the correct size capacitors - bear with me until I try get and fit these. All your help is greatly appreciated.
It could be good to checking the potentiometer. In one extreme it should be 2k2, and in the other treme 0 ohms.
Unfortunately not.... It is still sitting in its box partially disassembled in the hope that a laser becomes available! I guess it's time to give up on that now
Fran - keep your eyes open for lower Sony in the range that uses the 272a laser mech - took me 3 purchases of old 339s to find a good laser, but that brought my 779 back to life…which I ultimately sold for nearly £800 to Taiwan back when I was in Dublin after comparing it to a Naim CDI I’d just repaired 😊
Ah I watched for a 339 for a long time but eBay prices were all at least 200e and at that you still wouldn't be sure of what you got. To be honest it's time to scrap it....
Don't you think it would be worth it to try to add a complete laser mechanism from the kss family but more common?
I'm sure that many people here have enough knowledge of Sony lasers to guide you and tell you if it's feasible or not.
I would be surprised if this is not possible/feasible.
I'm sure that many people here have enough knowledge of Sony lasers to guide you and tell you if it's feasible or not.
I would be surprised if this is not possible/feasible.
If there was a way of transplanting a different transport in I would love to hear about it. Honestly I parked this a while back but if there is something out there I can do, please let me know and I'll give it a go!
I don't remember seeing any such options though....
I don't remember seeing any such options though....
Not exactly the same laser but I did experiment with a KSS240A but didn't have the smarts to proceed even though it would play replacing a KSS270.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...55es-instead-of-a-kss270a.132193/post-1644469
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...55es-instead-of-a-kss270a.132193/post-1644469
Sound depends on the DAC, the laser is simply a data reader, taking data off the disk, at best resolution.
Unless you can play with the data rates, sound quality should not be affected by the laser : if it works, it works.
Unless you can play with the data rates, sound quality should not be affected by the laser : if it works, it works.
For me, sound gets bigger body and more weight as you move up the range…and so does the weight of the hardware 🙂 Nice enough, but a CDI was far better for me.
Hi
Resolder the ic's that control the laser, they get hot and cause bad connections, I repaired many Sony cd players with this problem, most of them started working correctly after the resoldering.
Cheers, Tom.
Resolder the ic's that control the laser, they get hot and cause bad connections, I repaired many Sony cd players with this problem, most of them started working correctly after the resoldering.
Cheers, Tom.
A heats ink may help, from an old computer maybe, if there is room.
A strip of aluminum, stuck with a proper material, with a few ridges or holes may also help.
Try and use something you can remove if needed.
There are adhesive tapes, and also the high temperature (mostly red) silicone compounds used for high temperature applications in cars etc.
A strip of aluminum, stuck with a proper material, with a few ridges or holes may also help.
Try and use something you can remove if needed.
There are adhesive tapes, and also the high temperature (mostly red) silicone compounds used for high temperature applications in cars etc.
Don't touch, don't resolder, don't modify before to know what is happening. First, see RF signal, after, try to know laser current. But don't do things that can worse the laser pickup.
For to adjust APC, you need a Laser Power Meter and when the laser pickup is working, adjust RF out to 1.2V. Don't touch APC if you don't have this premises.
For to adjust APC, you need a Laser Power Meter and when the laser pickup is working, adjust RF out to 1.2V. Don't touch APC if you don't have this premises.