Hi and thank you for having me .
I am hoping to find someone who can help me with information regarding the construction of the Castle Stirling 3's.
I have bought a pair that were damaged in a flood and I am going to refurb them .
I am hoping to find someone who can help me with information regarding the construction of the Castle Stirling 3's.
I have bought a pair that were damaged in a flood and I am going to refurb them .
Just the box damaged? I’d think drivers shoud be OK.
Pictures?
Pull the drivers. Take more pictures?
Check the drivers. Except for potentially needing cleaning, Maybe some corrosion.
You may have to rebuikld the box (can be done better than the factoery box).
dave
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Hi
The drivers and crossovers are fine .
The plinths and the bottom of the boxes were seriously damaged .
I have stripped them down , sanded and filled the boxes ready for a repaint , unfortunately re veneering them was not an option , but , i have no port , no bottoms and no plinths , it is for these I need measurements .
Also there is no internal bracing ?
The drivers and crossovers are fine .
The plinths and the bottom of the boxes were seriously damaged .
I have stripped them down , sanded and filled the boxes ready for a repaint , unfortunately re veneering them was not an option , but , i have no port , no bottoms and no plinths , it is for these I need measurements .
Also there is no internal bracing ?
To be clear, the enclosure is described as a "downward firing reflex", so the port is missing along with the bottom of the enclosure.
Yes that is correct . the plinths are also missing and im not sure if there should be any internal bracing , if so that is also missing
I've been surfing!
"The new design also uses a downward firing reflex port, venting between the cabinet and the plinth, this space being variable to allow for optimum room matching and more flexible placement options."
Apparently, there were 4 screws located on the bottom of the plinth that allowed tuning by adjusting them up or down.
"The new design also uses a downward firing reflex port, venting between the cabinet and the plinth, this space being variable to allow for optimum room matching and more flexible placement options."
Apparently, there were 4 screws located on the bottom of the plinth that allowed tuning by adjusting them up or down.
Note that given the box, drivers, and vent it is an ML-TL not a reflex. Probably unintentional since it came before we really knew what an ML-TLK was.
This was the era of, “i built the tower reflex, used the modeled tuning, but when we measured it we had to change the tuning (lower always)” — because the reflex modeler couldn’t deal with the quarter-wave resonance,
dave
This was the era of, “i built the tower reflex, used the modeled tuning, but when we measured it we had to change the tuning (lower always)” — because the reflex modeler couldn’t deal with the quarter-wave resonance,
dave
The plinth is fastened to the bottom of the cab by four screws and spacers are placed between the cab and the plinth , the tuning is adjusted by removing or adding spacers .
I've spent hours and hours surfing and the only info I cant find is the info and measurements I need .
I've spent hours and hours surfing and the only info I cant find is the info and measurements I need .
Hi , I read somewhere that they were designed with quarter wave resonances in mind , but that was as informative as it got
https://www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL.../www.t-linespeakers.org/FALL/toobz/index.html
What i did here with this ML-TL (i didn’t know at that time what i was doing there). The term ML-TL hadn’t happened yet.
dave
The Stirling 3 is no longer manufactured, but there's a small chance that Castle could help you out.
https://castle.uk.com/contact/
Thank you , but , Im afraid I have already tried that .
I have emailed them 4 times now and not had a reply , in the last one I resorted to begging .
I'm thinking my only hope is to find someone who owns a pair , who will be willing to grab a screwdriver and help me .
I even tracked down the actual designer , cant remember his name now , Hes the managing director of Wharfedale now , but , I cant find any contact details for him .
I have emailed them 4 times now and not had a reply , in the last one I resorted to begging .
I'm thinking my only hope is to find someone who owns a pair , who will be willing to grab a screwdriver and help me .
I even tracked down the actual designer , cant remember his name now , Hes the managing director of Wharfedale now , but , I cant find any contact details for him .
That may be Peter Comeau, director of acoustic design at IAG which owns the brands Castle and Wharfedale amongst others.
However, I think he'd be a hard man to contact.
If you can't flush out another Stirling 3 owner then I'm sure you could coax some decent sound out of the speakers through experimentation.
May I take it that the enclosures are currently completely open at the bottom?
However, I think he'd be a hard man to contact.
If you can't flush out another Stirling 3 owner then I'm sure you could coax some decent sound out of the speakers through experimentation.
May I take it that the enclosures are currently completely open at the bottom?
Yes , at the minute , I have fashioned a piece of 25mm MDF with a 100mm hole in it and a pair of 25mm MDF plinths as a temporary measure .
I will post some more pictures later as i am now in the process of spraying them
I will post some more pictures later as i am now in the process of spraying them
Wharfedale's "distributed port design", as employed in their Diamond 11 model, gives a clue as to how to proceed.
The design has an internal tube inserted into the hole in the base, as well as a narrow gap between base and plinth.
An adjustment screw is visible at bottom right of the image below:
You could experiment with different lengths of plastic tube (110 mm is a standard outside diameter I believe).
The design has an internal tube inserted into the hole in the base, as well as a narrow gap between base and plinth.
An adjustment screw is visible at bottom right of the image below:
You could experiment with different lengths of plastic tube (110 mm is a standard outside diameter I believe).
Thankyou again , Ive just downloaded a load of transmission line design plans , not one downward firing though , going to spend a few hours reading , see if I can learn something
Please note that the Stirling 3 is not a transmission line design.
Below is a typical transmission line speaker:
The Stirling's design requires the correct diameter and length of reflex tube and a suitably narrow spacing between base and plinth.
Below is a typical transmission line speaker:
The Stirling's design requires the correct diameter and length of reflex tube and a suitably narrow spacing between base and plinth.
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Of course ?????? Thanks for the nudge there , I guess I need to take a break , completely lost track of my thoughts .
Spent hours searching for that stuff haha
Spent hours searching for that stuff haha