No.
Rather than double-clicking, if the Sd input box is highlighted then the Driver Parameters form can also be opened by selecting Tools > Calculate Parameter.
(Every feature available in Hornresp is documented in the Help file).
At the moment I am just trying to make sure I have the right driver parameters in there (which I mostly have a handle on now) except the auto calculated Cms if different to what is on the manufacturers spec sheet says and the Rms is different to what I calculated (but close-ish).
I have been trying to get a response using the Vrc, Lrc, Ap, Lpt boxes to start with. I am the sort of person that needs to walk before I can run. When I get an understanding of something properly, I often understand it better than most, but it takes me a lot of time to come up to speed.
I just need to play with some vent sizes now, but I am closer than I have ever been to getting a result I could actually build into a box. Once I feel like I have a good handle on the first method I will try and replicate it using the second method.
I was clicking on the label not the text box. Plus I am not 100% sure I was in edit mode before, so that might have been an issue as well.
I have tried and tried to read the help file but without pictures and the way the text is formatted, I struggle to read it. I don't have dyslexia, but it is something like that. All the words in a bunch like that just overwhelm me, and I can't take it in.
To fine tune it, should I be focusing on removing the jagged right hand side, or is there something else that is more important?
I realise that I can remove the jagger by masking it, but that is not really getting rid of it.
I realise that I can remove the jagger by masking it, but that is not really getting rid of it.
While I wait to find out what I need to fine tune. I emulated David's settings, and this seems to open up a whole new can of worms...
Before I thought I had a fundamental understanding of what was happening with the boxes (S1 - S5). To me I got the impression from previous conversations that took place that this was like a horn that just kept getting bigger, so S2 was bigger than S1, S3 was the same size as S2 because it is where those two sections join etc... But this is now breaking my head because it seems like those rules like Kansas went bye bye...
Changing the values and pressing calculate I observed what was changing in size and what was moving. Apart form wondering how it knows how big the driver is (assuming it is using the Sd to calculate the size, port is from the boxes below). This changes what I thought the core of the program did.
With all the different box types it potentially opens up numerous ways the boxes might be drawn on the screen...
If that is truly the case. We really do need an expert to do a video showing every conceivable box type to work out how to design it. OK you might guess how to draw a horn, but some designs are going to take expert knowledge to design them.
Before I thought I had a fundamental understanding of what was happening with the boxes (S1 - S5). To me I got the impression from previous conversations that took place that this was like a horn that just kept getting bigger, so S2 was bigger than S1, S3 was the same size as S2 because it is where those two sections join etc... But this is now breaking my head because it seems like those rules like Kansas went bye bye...
Changing the values and pressing calculate I observed what was changing in size and what was moving. Apart form wondering how it knows how big the driver is (assuming it is using the Sd to calculate the size, port is from the boxes below). This changes what I thought the core of the program did.
With all the different box types it potentially opens up numerous ways the boxes might be drawn on the screen...
If that is truly the case. We really do need an expert to do a video showing every conceivable box type to work out how to design it. OK you might guess how to draw a horn, but some designs are going to take expert knowledge to design them.
It looks like with 25-35hz BR's, you might need to start at 1/2 of the driver's Sd due to low tuning.
Alot of bandpass enclosures I modeled, I got away with 1/3 of the driver's Sd due to the negative flares in 20-30hz TH's or higher tuning in 50-70hz BP4's.
Thanks DMB! I will have to try that style. Hopefully, it works HR version 50.70.
I usually use Clo with the Nd function.
I prefer the driver basket in the vented chamber of a BP4 enclosure to aid voicecoil cooling.
Truthfully, you should use PAR segments in your BR models. You are not building a conical enclosure.
L12 = 22cm = the distance between the left side of the enclosure and the center of the driver.
L23 = 40cm = the distance between the center of the driver and the center of the port.
L34= 10cm = the distance between the center of the port and the right side of the enclosure.
27.5hz is the lowest note of an 88 key piano. Either increase the enclosure volume, lengthen the port, or both.
Unfortunately Thiele-Small and electro-mechanical parameter values provided by drive unit manufacturers are often not consistent. If a complete set of electro-mechanical parameters is given then use those values, otherwise use the T-S values to calculate the necessary electro-mechanical equivalents required by Hornresp.
Use the Loudspeaker Wizard and adjust the sliders to see the effect of the changes in real time. Select Tools > Loudspeaker Wizard from the Input Parameters window with the record in Edit mode.
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Focus on getting the response above the low frequency rolloff as flat as possible up to about 400 hertz.
Because the segments are not flaring, Con, Exp or Par can be used. It makes no difference which one is specified.
It is also the automatically-calculated Path length value.
You can also do this using the Loudspeaker Wizard, to see the effect of changes in real time, as mentioned earlier.
I am still trying to get my head around the box. The box David modeled seems to have the driver and port on the side of the box, so I tried to model the box so the driver is on the end because the volume of the box David modeled doesn't seem right. Adding up the volumes it is like double the size.
I manage to put the driver on the end, and the box volume is right, but I don't know how to put the port in. Any clues?
The black lines pointing to segments 1 and 2 in your marked-up schematic diagram screenprint should be swapped around 🙂.
S1 - S2 should point to segment 1 not segment 2
S2 - S3 should point to segment 2 not segment 1
I should have quit while I was ahead. Using the bottom boxes I had something that kind of worked, but now that I have tried to use the top boxes I am back to being totally confused, because I don't really know what is effecting what. Going to see if I can find another video online that shows how to use the top boxes to build a BR Box. Thanks for all the help guys but I am moving further and further away from having a clue.