So the goal is pleasing music listening in the nearfield……..but I’m gonna pigeon hole myself into a design because I have these boxes? In essence it’s help me do the best i can in a box?
What’s the environment?…..whats the placement that it’s always 1 meter?……working desk?….up against a wall?…..in free space? Diy offers the highest potential for success when you build/design to work within a specific environment or the constraints of that environment.
What’s the environment?…..whats the placement that it’s always 1 meter?……working desk?….up against a wall?…..in free space? Diy offers the highest potential for success when you build/design to work within a specific environment or the constraints of that environment.
^Tjat should have been post #1 in this and most threads.
But to answer OP not considering above:
Get this or one of its current siblings:
Spec sheet says 1,5 liter. Ask the experts in this thread if its really the optimum volume.
Use the rest of the cabinet as "sub enclosure" -Dont go for too low extension, since a lot of subbass is likely (not guaranteed) to disturb middbass, midds and treble.
Get a 2.2 or two stereo amps and an active crossover. Dsp based would not be a bad choice.
Execute right with the help of these guys and all that is left, is to.....................Profit!😊
You will then have "Very high quality speakers for music enjoyment"
You starting out with fixed cabinets is not problematic. Just not the typical and maybe not the most efficient approach when designing loudspeakers.
Your listening environment/situation/demands as described are really not demanding. I doubt you will hear a difference between purifi, other expensive drivers and a sensible budget middwoofer.
Cheers!
But to answer OP not considering above:
Get this or one of its current siblings:
Spec sheet says 1,5 liter. Ask the experts in this thread if its really the optimum volume.
Use the rest of the cabinet as "sub enclosure" -Dont go for too low extension, since a lot of subbass is likely (not guaranteed) to disturb middbass, midds and treble.
Get a 2.2 or two stereo amps and an active crossover. Dsp based would not be a bad choice.
Execute right with the help of these guys and all that is left, is to.....................Profit!😊
You will then have "Very high quality speakers for music enjoyment"
You starting out with fixed cabinets is not problematic. Just not the typical and maybe not the most efficient approach when designing loudspeakers.
Your listening environment/situation/demands as described are really not demanding. I doubt you will hear a difference between purifi, other expensive drivers and a sensible budget middwoofer.
Cheers!
Sadly Guerilla, some of us forget to ask the ‘should I’ before the ‘could I’ question……..I’ve got a closet full of drivers, caps, coils and more than enough saw dust to remind me 🤣 …….answer the damn question.
I have to disagree a bit about a 3-way not making sense. With the requirement of a 5" driver giving lots of bass, high excursion is required, and even with an optimizer driver like the Purifi, it will increase IMD. I'd wager a 3-way with a semi optimal woofer would have less IMD in the mids than a 2-way with a Purifi.
Crossovers/lobing can be difficult for near-field application but they could also go for a coax if it fits their taste
Crossovers/lobing can be difficult for near-field application but they could also go for a coax if it fits their taste
for 1 m distance nothing beat a small single driver with no crossover ..
The Bliesmas have better xmax, and the thd doesnt rise as fast as sb26adc.
I like bliesmas fr better than sb26adc
Mostly relevant if you like to turn up the volume and or prefer lower xover.
I currently use t25a+sb15mfc in 12l@34hz, they are a couple of magnificent beasts! Opted for mfc due to kids, otherwise i would have used nbac.
Havent measured seriously how loud they go but Billie Eilish -Bad Guy did sound alright at 100db, 3m.
T25b and purifi5.25" 4ohm should be as good as it gets.
I would'nt use waveguide in this application. However I would use purifi 6.5" if i was to eq the low end in a sealed cabinet.
It will make for a brutal satellite if your requirements change
Ok, thanks everyone. To clear up a few points and summarize then
Cabinets: 10L is as big as i can fit in the space i have available. I just happen to have these particular cabinet parts that fit that. if i were building from scratch they would still be 10L, maybe with slightly different proportions to accommodate a 6". In fact i could cram a 6" in these... just hadn't considered it wise. Maybe i will research this more as for some reason purifi don't do a metal cone in 5" and i did like the sound of the seas l12rcy/p (aluminum cone) units I made many years ago so there would be some advantage in going to the metal purify 6” beyond extra low end. FWIW they will be up against a wall, positioned either side of the monitor.
Bass.. well i said "as much bass as i can reasonably get" meaning reasonably within the other constraints. perhaps that was lost in translation out of my brain 😀 I'm not looking for room pounding here, i just want something accurate and low and exists
People are divided on whether 2-way is fine, my requirements aren't that extreme, a good quality mid-woofer and some eq/dsp at 1m will get me everything i need, vs 3 way (i'm counting everything with a sub as 3 way also) is really needed to get any bass without sacrificing mids. there may be some merit to this, even the purifi drivers come in different variants for mids and bass.
Other suggestions include fullrange 1-way (thanks but no thanks, i have zero experience of them and they seem like a can of worms, plus having all the existing mentioned drawbacks of 2 way) and cheap metal stamped drivers will be fine (again, thanks but no thanks, every stamped metal driver i have listened to has been a bit crap. Also I already have that right now, this is meant to be an upgrade.)
Tweeters appear to be a personal thing. People generally agree Bliesma are good but expensive, everything else there is disagreement about. which is interesting.
I might make up some test baffles out of scrap wood and do some experimenting there before committing wince I have heard good and not so good metal domes. miniDSP makes trying out crossover points easy 😀
I may do a build thread when its complete and see if I can get some meaningful measurements off them. Data on how Tufnol cabinets perform may be interesting.
Cabinets: 10L is as big as i can fit in the space i have available. I just happen to have these particular cabinet parts that fit that. if i were building from scratch they would still be 10L, maybe with slightly different proportions to accommodate a 6". In fact i could cram a 6" in these... just hadn't considered it wise. Maybe i will research this more as for some reason purifi don't do a metal cone in 5" and i did like the sound of the seas l12rcy/p (aluminum cone) units I made many years ago so there would be some advantage in going to the metal purify 6” beyond extra low end. FWIW they will be up against a wall, positioned either side of the monitor.
Bass.. well i said "as much bass as i can reasonably get" meaning reasonably within the other constraints. perhaps that was lost in translation out of my brain 😀 I'm not looking for room pounding here, i just want something accurate and low and exists
People are divided on whether 2-way is fine, my requirements aren't that extreme, a good quality mid-woofer and some eq/dsp at 1m will get me everything i need, vs 3 way (i'm counting everything with a sub as 3 way also) is really needed to get any bass without sacrificing mids. there may be some merit to this, even the purifi drivers come in different variants for mids and bass.
Other suggestions include fullrange 1-way (thanks but no thanks, i have zero experience of them and they seem like a can of worms, plus having all the existing mentioned drawbacks of 2 way) and cheap metal stamped drivers will be fine (again, thanks but no thanks, every stamped metal driver i have listened to has been a bit crap. Also I already have that right now, this is meant to be an upgrade.)
Tweeters appear to be a personal thing. People generally agree Bliesma are good but expensive, everything else there is disagreement about. which is interesting.
I might make up some test baffles out of scrap wood and do some experimenting there before committing wince I have heard good and not so good metal domes. miniDSP makes trying out crossover points easy 😀
I may do a build thread when its complete and see if I can get some meaningful measurements off them. Data on how Tufnol cabinets perform may be interesting.
Maybe @juanitox . I like mine very much.
But full range, 2 ways of 3 ways.. Anything goes and will be fine. With my limited knowledge I believe 2 ways in one of the many designs here on diyaudio is the safest route to go. Most of ones from latter years has has been documented with measurements and everything.
Fullrange is right for you and me, but not for all I guess.
Cheers!
But full range, 2 ways of 3 ways.. Anything goes and will be fine. With my limited knowledge I believe 2 ways in one of the many designs here on diyaudio is the safest route to go. Most of ones from latter years has has been documented with measurements and everything.
Fullrange is right for you and me, but not for all I guess.
Cheers!
You will get less low end from a 6.5" driver in 10L than from a 5" or more so 4". Do some simulations with the T/S parameters.
That is, until you EQ the sh*t out of it if you have a powerful enough amp and driver enough power handling.
Metal drivers are better when small as the resonances are higher in freq. 6.5" metal in a 2-way will need more skill to implement well than a paper driver with well damped resonances.
That is, until you EQ the sh*t out of it if you have a powerful enough amp and driver enough power handling.
Metal drivers are better when small as the resonances are higher in freq. 6.5" metal in a 2-way will need more skill to implement well than a paper driver with well damped resonances.
…….and this thread will end as it should since full range drivers are worm cans and stamped steel drivers are crap……..it’s nice to know the consensus is any problem can be overcome with more money and more drivers!…..
Here is some inspiration. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...r-cnc-3d-printing.318190/page-98#post-7500706
Use your L12RCY/P assisted from ~100 hz by bass drivers on side of cabs?
I recon its a midd, so you would end up with 2.2wayish🫢. That configuration hasn't been bashed yet in this thread 😄.
JBL GTO 529 has cast chassis btw😊
Cheers!
I recon its a midd, so you would end up with 2.2wayish🫢. That configuration hasn't been bashed yet in this thread 😄.
JBL GTO 529 has cast chassis btw😊
Cheers!
There are quite a few 4” FRs that fit that size nicely. For the application i would choose Markaudio Pluvia 7HD.
And example enclosure — 9 litre. https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/CGR-dPlu-Ken7HD-0v81-240123.pdf
Probably the wrong shape but quite maleable.
dave
Quite true (in most cases — genralizations tend to break).
For instance the 4” MA Alpair 7ms goes lower than the larger 6” Alpair 11ms (in the same optimum 9 litres)
dave
I think we can conclude that @sigmatechnica will not be going fullrange with this build due to no experience. I would probably never have bought one if not circumstances let me hear a good one years ago. I also have many multiway speakers I love.
Love and peace!
Love and peace!
Looks a little like a can!…….if we wait, will the worms come out of the slot ports? 🤣
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Bottom line in as much as it PAINS me to agree with Dave, in the nearfield at 1m or less?……..I can’t make an arguement for a two way………a pair of FR cabs with small drivers and response to 100hz mated to a centralized nearfield small sealed sub……I use a pair daily for mix evaluation.