Hi All,
Was watching TV last night when I heard a weird noise and then the lights on my counterpoint transport just went out.
No smoke, no flames - but the strong acrid smell of a capacitor taking a dump. When something like this happens, does it normally take a few downstream components like resistors, etc with it - or could it be a simple cap replacement and move on?
The unit is old, and a full re-cap probably wouldn’t be a bad idea. These generally aren’t exotic caps, so material cost would be pretty low.
I don’t have a trusted tech nearby and wondering if a simple DIY recap is worthwhile/advisable vs finding a tech to take a look..?
Note:
I’m handy with a soldering iron, but limited to pretty much “paint by numbers” when it comes to design and real technical knowledge.
I’ve rebuilt Dynaco’s, Heathkits, etc., but had a tech friend test and double check my work before plugging it in. So I’m very comfortable w/replacing parts, just not comfortable poking around live voltages - lol.
Thanks guys!
Was watching TV last night when I heard a weird noise and then the lights on my counterpoint transport just went out.
No smoke, no flames - but the strong acrid smell of a capacitor taking a dump. When something like this happens, does it normally take a few downstream components like resistors, etc with it - or could it be a simple cap replacement and move on?
The unit is old, and a full re-cap probably wouldn’t be a bad idea. These generally aren’t exotic caps, so material cost would be pretty low.
I don’t have a trusted tech nearby and wondering if a simple DIY recap is worthwhile/advisable vs finding a tech to take a look..?
Note:
I’m handy with a soldering iron, but limited to pretty much “paint by numbers” when it comes to design and real technical knowledge.
I’ve rebuilt Dynaco’s, Heathkits, etc., but had a tech friend test and double check my work before plugging it in. So I’m very comfortable w/replacing parts, just not comfortable poking around live voltages - lol.
Thanks guys!
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Your photo suggests that the cap in question is on the original Philips PCBA. That will be a bear to get at. I will dig out the manual for you.
regards
Alan
regards
Alan
Thanks Alan! Yes, I believe you’re correct, its in the PS section.
I’m hoping once I remove the tray/mechanism to take the whole board out and replace all the caps while I’ve got it out.
I’m hoping once I remove the tray/mechanism to take the whole board out and replace all the caps while I’ve got it out.
Are those the VAM series transports Alan? I didn't see any here in Canada.
Hi Showa25,
You'll need a good soldering station, 40 + watt iron heater and a good solder sucker. The Edysen is the only good one out there, about $30 Canadian. Avoid the cheap ones as they can break the first time you use them and certainly will not last long. These are the large ones, not the small useless solder suckers. Use a large "screwdriver" tip. If you attempt this with a hobby iron (no base, 25 watt), you'll probably wreck the board. Some great stations can be had on AliExpress, the KSGER brand. Get the thermometer to set it up as well. These are fantastic, and pretty inexpensive. You can get a variety of tips, so buy a few. I use a 3mm screwdriver tip for most things, smaller ones for surface mount.
-Chris
Hi Showa25,
You'll need a good soldering station, 40 + watt iron heater and a good solder sucker. The Edysen is the only good one out there, about $30 Canadian. Avoid the cheap ones as they can break the first time you use them and certainly will not last long. These are the large ones, not the small useless solder suckers. Use a large "screwdriver" tip. If you attempt this with a hobby iron (no base, 25 watt), you'll probably wreck the board. Some great stations can be had on AliExpress, the KSGER brand. Get the thermometer to set it up as well. These are fantastic, and pretty inexpensive. You can get a variety of tips, so buy a few. I use a 3mm screwdriver tip for most things, smaller ones for surface mount.
-Chris
Thanks for the tips anatech! I have a pretty decent Hakko station that I’ve had for a while and a couple of solder suckers as well.
I’m ok at swapping/replacing components. Figuring out what’s broke is my challenge - lol. (Although in this case, the bad cap is pretty obvious- lol)
Not sure if it took some other stuff with it when it crapped out though…
I’m ok at swapping/replacing components. Figuring out what’s broke is my challenge - lol. (Although in this case, the bad cap is pretty obvious- lol)
Not sure if it took some other stuff with it when it crapped out though…
Hi Showa25,
Perfect!
Let Alan guide you here. The cap may be the only thing.
Alan was a Counterpoint distributor and is highly skilled. I was Counterpoint warranty in Canada, but am not familiar with the DA-11a.
Perfect!
Let Alan guide you here. The cap may be the only thing.
Alan was a Counterpoint distributor and is highly skilled. I was Counterpoint warranty in Canada, but am not familiar with the DA-11a.
I just checked, that’s actually what I have - lol. Although I’ve got the cheaper version. I’ve always found it to be a bit bulky, so might try one of the nicer versions!
Awesome- thanks!!
As old as this is, I’m thinking a full re-cap may be worth it. Especially if I have the board out already.
As old as this is, I’m thinking a full re-cap may be worth it. Especially if I have the board out already.
Hi Showa25,
Before we get too carried away, what do you have in the way of test tools and what are you comfortable doing?
I am thinking the minimum is a DMM for voltage measurement...
cheers
Alan
P.S. I am no looking for my inhaler after digging into the dusty archives. That thing is 30y old. So I caution that this may be an exercise that does not end well. But if you up for some fun...
Before we get too carried away, what do you have in the way of test tools and what are you comfortable doing?
I am thinking the minimum is a DMM for voltage measurement...
cheers
Alan
P.S. I am no looking for my inhaler after digging into the dusty archives. That thing is 30y old. So I caution that this may be an exercise that does not end well. But if you up for some fun...
This is the first generation DA11. Not the DA11.5. This means it is workable onable.
The DA11.5 goes straight to the skip since I value my time and mental health. That thing needed a production jig or sheer luck to repair. I have identified the donor player so we should be able to fix the obvious in the DA11
regards
Alan
Hi Alan,
I have a good soldering station and decent digital meter. In terms of skills, I am capable at taking stuff apart, replacing parts, and know enough to get cap polarity correct (if required) - lol. I’ve rebuilt some Dynaco MkII’s and HK pre-amps, but either had step by step kit instructions, or it was straight up part swapping.
Note: I did not work on those tube units while plugged in. I had a tech friend do all final testing, troubleshooting, etc.
TLDR - good making/building skills, lacking core technical skill and knowledge/understanding.
I have a good soldering station and decent digital meter. In terms of skills, I am capable at taking stuff apart, replacing parts, and know enough to get cap polarity correct (if required) - lol. I’ve rebuilt some Dynaco MkII’s and HK pre-amps, but either had step by step kit instructions, or it was straight up part swapping.
Note: I did not work on those tube units while plugged in. I had a tech friend do all final testing, troubleshooting, etc.
TLDR - good making/building skills, lacking core technical skill and knowledge/understanding.
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First step is to measure the PSU voltages - which is all the test points marked with the red circles in this schematic
You will find these marked on the PCB layout al so in red circles. All except the (-5V) are on the lower left end of the board. The (-5V) is a bit trickier to find - look for connector 1375 which is roughly in the middle of the board and the (-5V) test point is to the left of that.
Have fun and report back.
Regards
Alan
You will find these marked on the PCB layout al so in red circles. All except the (-5V) are on the lower left end of the board. The (-5V) is a bit trickier to find - look for connector 1375 which is roughly in the middle of the board and the (-5V) test point is to the left of that.
Have fun and report back.
Regards
Alan