Here is a thinking exercise for the FR gurus. I don't like wearing headphones, and not only because of interference with eyeglasses. I find the cut-off experience a bit unpleasant too
I am working on a project for speakers that I can place very close to the head for quiet night listening and sharing the experience with my partner. There is a thread re this in subwoofers called tiny 40hz sub. Time to sort out the satellites
Source is a headphone output, and I would like to mess with attaching some FR speakers directly to that. When I was a kid, I would buy those small stereo speaker set from the two dollar shops that have a 3.5 plug like headphones. These would be just audible when hooked up to a Walkman
I would like to plan some strategies to set up a proper version. Been looking at some mini drivers that I have access to
Visaton FRWS 5 R 2"
4x these drivers in series for total 32R per stereo channel
AIYIMA 1.5 Inch 8ohm 5W Full Range Ultra-Thin Neodymium
4x these drivers in series for total 32R per stereo channel
Hi-Res Silk Diaphragms Film Headphone Speaker Unit for AKG
8x these drivers in series and parallel gangs for total 32R per stereo channel
This is my current shortlist and approach with my limited understanding on this. Will there be a lift in system sensitivity with such an array to make the headphone output usable? Xover will be around 300hz
Any alternative approaches? Should I try to pick up the signal from the headphone out and use Class D for the stereo channels too and use a single regular FR driver?
The headphone amp is single ended tube triode 6N5P 6N5C class A
I am working on a project for speakers that I can place very close to the head for quiet night listening and sharing the experience with my partner. There is a thread re this in subwoofers called tiny 40hz sub. Time to sort out the satellites
Source is a headphone output, and I would like to mess with attaching some FR speakers directly to that. When I was a kid, I would buy those small stereo speaker set from the two dollar shops that have a 3.5 plug like headphones. These would be just audible when hooked up to a Walkman
I would like to plan some strategies to set up a proper version. Been looking at some mini drivers that I have access to
Visaton FRWS 5 R 2"
4x these drivers in series for total 32R per stereo channel
AIYIMA 1.5 Inch 8ohm 5W Full Range Ultra-Thin Neodymium
4x these drivers in series for total 32R per stereo channel
Hi-Res Silk Diaphragms Film Headphone Speaker Unit for AKG
8x these drivers in series and parallel gangs for total 32R per stereo channel
This is my current shortlist and approach with my limited understanding on this. Will there be a lift in system sensitivity with such an array to make the headphone output usable? Xover will be around 300hz
Any alternative approaches? Should I try to pick up the signal from the headphone out and use Class D for the stereo channels too and use a single regular FR driver?
The headphone amp is single ended tube triode 6N5P 6N5C class A
Not that efficient but you also posted the Aiyima 🙂 The headphone amp link is not working.
I like the Tang Band W23-1287SI 2"x3. Maybe it can be used open-baffle with the 300 crossover and low SPL?
I recorded a silly video with it and later realized the song (sample) was not the best choice. There's a sub helping.
I like the Tang Band W23-1287SI 2"x3. Maybe it can be used open-baffle with the 300 crossover and low SPL?
I recorded a silly video with it and later realized the song (sample) was not the best choice. There's a sub helping.
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Not much I guess, tpa3116d2 with 12V PSU. And moderate volume. That video was recorded with a phone 🤦♂️
Do you like the Aiyima driver? I love the looks of this one and think it will look great on the project, but don't know if it's the right type of driver for this application
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...KF3vxBXb&utparam-url=scene:search|query_from:
Looks like the headphone amp is discontinued. I already have one. The tang band looks good too. I am using brown leather look upholstery fabric on the project, and cream or brown speakers with gold will complement the scheme. Not sure if I should be looking at these regular style FR in a single stereo pair or the tiny ones ganged up
Mine is not the most qualified opinion around... but.
The Aiyima reminds me of the LY302F (maybe prettier). I like how those sound, with some EQ.
I've seen the published specs of those or similar Aiyima drivers in Youtube reviews. I haven't tried them.
I think the poster of this thread has published about enclosures for a few small drivers. I mentioned the tang band there and he compared it to other drivers.
This want took me back to memory lane,long time ago a friend and location recording engineer made some tiny boxes using some western electric intercom speakers,they were 3 inches 32 ohm alnico drivers,fairly efficient and he wired them with a headphone plug.
I once heard them on his stellavox portable r2r playing a premastered version of The Beach Boys pet sounds and was blown away how good they sounded,I don't remember how loud they got I swapped some equipment and got a pair to use with my md players
They were called the 107a and this beats using multiple drivers
Now I want to go to my attic and look for them and take a picture and measure the t/s
I once heard them on his stellavox portable r2r playing a premastered version of The Beach Boys pet sounds and was blown away how good they sounded,I don't remember how loud they got I swapped some equipment and got a pair to use with my md players
They were called the 107a and this beats using multiple drivers
Now I want to go to my attic and look for them and take a picture and measure the t/s
More memories coming in
My old friend Arthur was a sonar submarine engineer and would always salvage stuff to make intriguing audio toys
From the headphone output he would wire some mic transformers 32 to 100 ohm input to 10 k output directly to the grid of some tubes,he would use tubes that ran on 120 volts without a ps on some 240v tubes he would use some uk travel adapters and inverted the voltage,he also used some car radio tubes with success
All were triodes and many output transformers were from various radios found in the dump,he ran the heaters on some 6 volt lantern batteries with a pot to adjust as the voltage dropped
Since this is a diy site I don't recommend playing with tubes directly connected to the wall but I am sure some pros can help
I miss Arthur
My old friend Arthur was a sonar submarine engineer and would always salvage stuff to make intriguing audio toys
From the headphone output he would wire some mic transformers 32 to 100 ohm input to 10 k output directly to the grid of some tubes,he would use tubes that ran on 120 volts without a ps on some 240v tubes he would use some uk travel adapters and inverted the voltage,he also used some car radio tubes with success
All were triodes and many output transformers were from various radios found in the dump,he ran the heaters on some 6 volt lantern batteries with a pot to adjust as the voltage dropped
Since this is a diy site I don't recommend playing with tubes directly connected to the wall but I am sure some pros can help
I miss Arthur
Fostex FE126NV
This looks good for picking up the stereo signal and using small class D amp instead of direct of the headphone out
This looks good for picking up the stereo signal and using small class D amp instead of direct of the headphone out
Still don't know about this, does ganging 4x 8R drivers to 32R also lift total efficiency above a single drivers e.g. 84db for the Visaton FRWS 5. What would the efficiency figure be for the speaker load presented to the amp?
Efficiency doesn't change because the impedance increases when you add the drivers.
Do you know how many volts/RMS can the amp provide for 32 ohms?
How many watts.
Do you know how many volts/RMS can the amp provide for 32 ohms?
How many watts.
Its a headphone output that I want to make audible using efficient speakers but I am limited in driver size as this is portable
I forgot to check the pro drivers, thanks for the tip
Guys, I came across this
https://blogs.qsc.com/cinema/2020/08/18/116/
The article doesn't mention series or parallel though
https://www.electronicshub.org/parallel-vs-series-speakers/
Doesn't make sense regarding the series.
How can 4x 8R 1w speakers in series at 32R have less power handling than 1x 32R 1w speaker?
Wouldn't they be able to take on 4w together?
These guys say less power handling in series and less efficient, so I take it the 3db increase due to coupling as in the first article doesn't happen with series setup
Doesn't make sense regarding the series.
How can 4x 8R 1w speakers in series at 32R have less power handling than 1x 32R 1w speaker?
Wouldn't they be able to take on 4w together?
These guys say less power handling in series and less efficient, so I take it the 3db increase due to coupling as in the first article doesn't happen with series setup
https://usspeaker.com/speaker wiring-1.htm
This much seems intuitive, that's why the other article with less power handling didn't make sense. These guys do not touch on the sensitivity side of things though
This much seems intuitive, that's why the other article with less power handling didn't make sense. These guys do not touch on the sensitivity side of things though
Yes. But you need more power. If you compare to 1. If you make each driver play with 1w, you will get more SPL.
That's a question of power handling though and the system does increase, but the main question is re sensitivity and making most of a tiny amp rated say 32R load
At only 1w
1 - The 4x 8R 90db drivers would see 1/4w each in series and total of 1w together
2 - The single 32R 90db driver will see the full watt
Which system will be louder at 1w, system 1v or 2? According to the first article, 6db increase due to coupling 4 drivers closely which is what I am after as no further increase due to increasing power also, If power was increased to total 4w then it would be 6db due to coupling 4x drivers + 6db due to giving each driver the full watt
Am I reading this exactly and correctly?
At only 1w
1 - The 4x 8R 90db drivers would see 1/4w each in series and total of 1w together
2 - The single 32R 90db driver will see the full watt
Which system will be louder at 1w, system 1v or 2? According to the first article, 6db increase due to coupling 4 drivers closely which is what I am after as no further increase due to increasing power also, If power was increased to total 4w then it would be 6db due to coupling 4x drivers + 6db due to giving each driver the full watt
Am I reading this exactly and correctly?
This is the amp, is it worth the effort? What do the transistors in the circuit do? Should I pick up the signal and use class D and regular 8R full range speakers instead?
That's a regulator on top and a capacitance multiplier circuit below.
Some people use tubes as preamps. If you use an amp you could consider class AB as well.
I prefer my cheap TDA7297 over the cheap class D I own.
Some people use tubes as preamps. If you use an amp you could consider class AB as well.
I prefer my cheap TDA7297 over the cheap class D I own.
Efficiency still goes up if the cone area increases. And the process continues until the system breaks with misaligned phase when things get too big. That's just the nature of how sound pressure works. If you have several drivers that are closely spaced and working together, it's a bit like each driver is horn loaded or "corner loaded" by invisible walls between the drivers. But the trick is that you get more output than expected. For each driver, the opposing pressure from the air reduces cone movement, so, cone velocity is lower and the internal mechanical losses are lower.