Dear all,
I came across this diyaudioperks video
I want to build such a passive crossover but not sure if the final output will be in correct phase.
Can analog signal experts please verify this circuit
Thanks in advance
I came across this diyaudioperks video
Can analog signal experts please verify this circuit
Thanks in advance
There is no phase inversion anywhere, so that is no worry. The question is, what do you mean by 'correct phase' .
Any analog filter that modifies the magnitude response also modifies the phase response, so there will always be phase shift.
You could throw it into LTspice and see for yourself.
Jan
Any analog filter that modifies the magnitude response also modifies the phase response, so there will always be phase shift.
You could throw it into LTspice and see for yourself.
Jan
I meant - is the final output from multiple amplifiers "in-phase".
Highs and mids uses single RC (60 degrees phase shift)
while the Bass uses 3 RC (180 degrees phase shift)
So my doubt is - will this circuit give out a flat output response, with maybe some acceptable bumps and peaks at crossover freq
Highs and mids uses single RC (60 degrees phase shift)
while the Bass uses 3 RC (180 degrees phase shift)
So my doubt is - will this circuit give out a flat output response, with maybe some acceptable bumps and peaks at crossover freq
Sorry, I'm not familiar with LT spice. But I could learn it in future
Yes, I have seen tweeter wired in reverse, such that its output is in phase with woofer. I'm just learning passive/ active crossovers.
So no problems in implementing the above circuit ?
So no problems in implementing the above circuit ?
I have no intention of watching the video or simulating your circuit.
However, my limited knowledge of circuits suggests to me that:
1 - Tweeter.
The cap blocks LF from reaching the tweeter.
The resistors are a combination of series, parallel and voltage dividers that will substantially reduce the signal.
2 - Midrange
The parallel cap will shunt high frequencies.
I doubt sub frequencies get filtered.
Resistors as above reduce the signal.
3 - Sub.
The parallel caps will shunt high and mid frequencies.
The resistors will substantially reduce the signal.
This must surely be intended for sound signal input at speaker level?
Real passive crossovers use a combination of capacitors and inductors.
I suggest if you are serious about building something along those lines you instead use a board like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176050414155?hash=item28fd6c224b:g:e5AAAOSwsQllXqbH&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8C445jjrG8erz6Fi+RrAYMyW3BdKnGoo4t6/j9G61HlqzCCoYW0KwhFvp+k7nPI3cxcPiRxE/8lmNfHpGjJadGeAijaEDpd7sdaTI0tUehsPXvKf8JpOZVuXRr6wW2h2PZmUCZiVNFF6U34I7AyrqsqF9xnlLGI4qYwMtfU+BbgyGlzFJmguXNWAg1+oVrA5zXiT8LIiPARS0sVK3rekUucZnC5+1S6jFVudKiGQPHXyBfy/jDPj+DmybIZjUYauKMvR4wakaeGSKMyZfB7jDfHuOiX8eKLLkPftFjyZ0arVAIt30kpx9pcTASEK1s3XEQ==|tkp:Bk9SR5yVr82eYw
And there are any number of 2.1 amplifier boards that would suit.
But IMHO, a sound bar is not worth DIYing. Good sound does not come from small speakers without a lot of equalisation and such that comes from the sort of development that goes into consumer electronics. And you get all the various inputs and a remote and umpteen equalisation programs.
However, my limited knowledge of circuits suggests to me that:
1 - Tweeter.
The cap blocks LF from reaching the tweeter.
The resistors are a combination of series, parallel and voltage dividers that will substantially reduce the signal.
2 - Midrange
The parallel cap will shunt high frequencies.
I doubt sub frequencies get filtered.
Resistors as above reduce the signal.
3 - Sub.
The parallel caps will shunt high and mid frequencies.
The resistors will substantially reduce the signal.
This must surely be intended for sound signal input at speaker level?
Real passive crossovers use a combination of capacitors and inductors.
I suggest if you are serious about building something along those lines you instead use a board like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176050414155?hash=item28fd6c224b:g:e5AAAOSwsQllXqbH&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8C445jjrG8erz6Fi+RrAYMyW3BdKnGoo4t6/j9G61HlqzCCoYW0KwhFvp+k7nPI3cxcPiRxE/8lmNfHpGjJadGeAijaEDpd7sdaTI0tUehsPXvKf8JpOZVuXRr6wW2h2PZmUCZiVNFF6U34I7AyrqsqF9xnlLGI4qYwMtfU+BbgyGlzFJmguXNWAg1+oVrA5zXiT8LIiPARS0sVK3rekUucZnC5+1S6jFVudKiGQPHXyBfy/jDPj+DmybIZjUYauKMvR4wakaeGSKMyZfB7jDfHuOiX8eKLLkPftFjyZ0arVAIt30kpx9pcTASEK1s3XEQ==|tkp:Bk9SR5yVr82eYw
And there are any number of 2.1 amplifier boards that would suit.
But IMHO, a sound bar is not worth DIYing. Good sound does not come from small speakers without a lot of equalisation and such that comes from the sort of development that goes into consumer electronics. And you get all the various inputs and a remote and umpteen equalisation programs.
No, this circuit is on amplifier input using only small RC combinations , unlike regular speaker crossovers which use combinations of bulky LCR.
Thus the amp and speakers are directly connected.
I'm trying my hands first on small inexpensive drivers first , before doing anything $eriou$ly expen$ive
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