• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

new to site. longtime hi-fi and tube guitar amp aficionado with questions on a vintage tube amp

new to site with questions on a 50s vintage Bell Air 6v6 amp.
 

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i will be needing to source tubes for this amp and clearly this amp calls for 6J5 and 6SL7 preamp tubes- do the replacement tubes have to be 8 pin?
and as this amp has a "can capacitor" does removing this remove residual voltage stored in the amp?

Replacement tubes have to fit the sockets.
There won't be any stored charge. It has dissipated long ago.
 
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Replacing the tubes with the proper ones is of course the best idea, major surgery would be required to change sockets for noval tubes of similar specification, and there aren't really direct replacements for all of them in noval. (9-pin)

Here's some links to the stock tubes, of course there are other sources.

https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/power-tubes/6v6

https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/preamp-tubes/6sl7

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/vacuum-tube-6j5-triode-medium-mu

https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/rectifier-tubes/5y3-5z3

The capacitor is very old and its advisable to replace it.
 
Be patient, we can be blunt and sharp! But we love is to help! You seem new to DIY culture.
Removing the cap just means it needs another cap to replace it. Form factor is unimportant to the electrons, but of great importance to aesthetics.
Still don't really know what you are after.
 
i will be needing to source tubes for this amp and clearly this amp calls for 6J5 and 6SL7 preamp tubes- do the replacement tubes have to be 8 pin?
and as this amp has a "can capacitor" does removing this remove residual voltage stored in the amp?
You'll definitely want to read thru this thread I just found. It appears to be that same amp: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/bell-air-mystery-deluxe.767062/

Take note that the main can capacitor has an octal socket. This will be virtually impossible to find as a "new" cap.

I suggest you get some local help to work on this amp.

jeff
 
Be patient, we can be blunt and sharp! But we love is to help! You seem new to DIY culture.
Removing the cap just means it needs another cap to replace it. Form factor is unimportant to the electrons, but of great importance to aesthetics.
Still don't really know what you are after.
i need to rephrase my question- while i perform other work- upgrading to a grounded plug, adding an indicator lamp and possibly replacing the tone control pot- will temporarily pulling the can cap remove any latent voltage.
 
Replacing the tubes with the proper ones is of course the best idea, major surgery would be required to change sockets for noval tubes of similar specification, and there aren't really direct replacements for all of them in noval. (9-pin)

Here's some links to the stock tubes, of course there are other sources.

https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/power-tubes/6v6

https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/preamp-tubes/6sl7

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/vacuum-tube-6j5-triode-medium-mu

https://www.tubedepot.com/t/tubes/rectifier-tubes/5y3-5z3

The capacitor is very old and its advisable to replace it.
i guess my question should have been is are all 6J5 and 6SL7 tubes the same pin wise. that is are all 6J5 the same, and likewise the 6SL7.
i figured the cap might need to be replaced- this amp had an 1/4" input added to the front panel so unsure if the last owner may have replaced any components as well.
 
will temporarily pulling the can cap remove any latent voltage.
No. If you power it on and then shut it down, the cap can remain charged. Simply pulling it from the chassis will not discharge it, you need to drain it.

Also, in case it’s helpful to state, working on the circuit with a charged cap is likely to damage any soldering equipment.

It doesn’t look like any of the other components were touched and, if they were, it was a while ago.
 
I was unable to log in anywhere to see the schematic of the amplifier.
Until I am corrected by one of you, I will assume there is no Bleeder Resistor to discharge the B+ capacitor(s).

Safety First!
What? . . . No Bleeder Resistor?
Prevent the "Surviving Spouse Syndrome"
Install a proper B+ bleeder resistor.
Just my $0.02

Have Fun with the amplifier!