I posted an AK also....
Bought this today at an estate sale with a bunch of DVD players. Check out all the capacitors added around TDA1541A and about the whole component board. There is a cable soldered in also. The problem is that it won't play music when I connect it to my amps through the RCA outputs.. Tried 2 different tube amps. I can hear what sounds like the CD spinning through the speakers, but no music comes out. The timer counts and it looks like everything is working. I have it plugged directly into the amp, so it should be playing at 100% volume. I don't have a remote. Can't wait to take the cover off the DVD players. 🙂
Bought this today at an estate sale with a bunch of DVD players. Check out all the capacitors added around TDA1541A and about the whole component board. There is a cable soldered in also. The problem is that it won't play music when I connect it to my amps through the RCA outputs.. Tried 2 different tube amps. I can hear what sounds like the CD spinning through the speakers, but no music comes out. The timer counts and it looks like everything is working. I have it plugged directly into the amp, so it should be playing at 100% volume. I don't have a remote. Can't wait to take the cover off the DVD players. 🙂
It might be due to that external cable. From what I can see in the photos, the resistors that feed power to the output stage opamps have been removed, and the wires soldered in where the opamp end was. That cable was likely connected to an external power supply, and without it you definitely won't get any sound.
There's a fair few modifications there, and they're not done in the best way mechanically. This was probably fine when it was used where this work was done, but could have easily been damaged in transit.
There's also a green section of corrosion near the center of the mainboard that will be corroded copper. It's probably because electrolyte has leaked from one of the two capacitors right above the patch. Some corrosion to the top side of this board, which is a ground screen, shouldn't cause an issue, but if its eaten through traces on the bottom layer that could be a problem.
It's got an odd selection of parts. The TDA1541A S1 is a real score if it's real. The old Roe capacitors (the brown moulded ones) are very old, not sure if they'd be that great. It looks like the output stage opamps have been upgraded to, it's hard to see what they are in the picture.
There's a fair few modifications there, and they're not done in the best way mechanically. This was probably fine when it was used where this work was done, but could have easily been damaged in transit.
There's also a green section of corrosion near the center of the mainboard that will be corroded copper. It's probably because electrolyte has leaked from one of the two capacitors right above the patch. Some corrosion to the top side of this board, which is a ground screen, shouldn't cause an issue, but if its eaten through traces on the bottom layer that could be a problem.
It's got an odd selection of parts. The TDA1541A S1 is a real score if it's real. The old Roe capacitors (the brown moulded ones) are very old, not sure if they'd be that great. It looks like the output stage opamps have been upgraded to, it's hard to see what they are in the picture.
Thank you for the keen observation.
I plugged it into a DAC before the most recent posts and got less output then before. I plugged analog out to digital in, so I didn't expect much. Who knows with this thing.
The chip should be authentic. My list shows this player as a TDA1541A device, that's why I bought the lot. What kind of power supply would I need with that type of connector? Would it be 12V?
Why all the extra capacitors around that chip and what do you think he was trying to accomplish? I'm intrigued now. Thanks
I plugged it into a DAC before the most recent posts and got less output then before. I plugged analog out to digital in, so I didn't expect much. Who knows with this thing.
The chip should be authentic. My list shows this player as a TDA1541A device, that's why I bought the lot. What kind of power supply would I need with that type of connector? Would it be 12V?
Why all the extra capacitors around that chip and what do you think he was trying to accomplish? I'm intrigued now. Thanks
No, see cct diagram - it’s (was) standard Philips setup. Opamps will need +/- 12-15v. Looking at picture, the external supply used regulated rails per channel. Can you ask the seller if they still have it? Otherwise you’ll need to build one, and check all connections carefully before powering up. I’d definitely investigate the corrosion on the board before going too much further. It also looks like the S1 isn’t socketed - makes it a bit of a nightmare if you wanted to recover the S1 itself (worth more than player if original and working).
It was an estate sale. The builder is probably no longer with us. If that chip is valuable, I should probably part this out and move on. I have a lot of projects already and this isn't really that important. I thought it was going to be a plug and play deal and I could put it with my small TDA154x collection of CD players.
If you want an easy route to get this player going again, you could replace the four resistors that were removed to provide the external power supply for the output stage opamps. Even then though, there really isn't any option that isn't a project.
The TDA1541A S1 is definitely valuable, if it's real. There are a lot of counterfeit markings out there, so it's really hard to tell.
The TDA1541A S1 is definitely valuable, if it's real. There are a lot of counterfeit markings out there, so it's really hard to tell.
Does it need the external power supply to charge all those extra capacitors? What is the intent?
Like I posted earlier,the player was built with a TDA1541A. I don't know why someone would change it with the same or similar chip. Anything is possible, though. Is this a known mod to make it some super player? Is the extra connector on back a digital in to use it as a DAC without using the cd mechanism? As you can tell, I don't know about these things. Thanks
Like I posted earlier,the player was built with a TDA1541A. I don't know why someone would change it with the same or similar chip. Anything is possible, though. Is this a known mod to make it some super player? Is the extra connector on back a digital in to use it as a DAC without using the cd mechanism? As you can tell, I don't know about these things. Thanks
No, it's not needed for those larger capacitors. The purpose of those original resistors was to form and RC filter with the following capacitors, and isolate the output stage from power supply noise elsewhere in the player. The previous owner seems to have taken this a step further, and used a separate power supply entirely.
This player almost certainly came with a plain TDA1541A. The S1 grade TDA1541As were used in only the highest cost models - the CD582 is okay, but just a lower cost, mass market CD player.
The third RCA connector on the back is the S/PDIF output - for using the CD player as a transport, not a DAC.
This player almost certainly came with a plain TDA1541A. The S1 grade TDA1541As were used in only the highest cost models - the CD582 is okay, but just a lower cost, mass market CD player.
The third RCA connector on the back is the S/PDIF output - for using the CD player as a transport, not a DAC.
Thank you so much for the explanation. I was wondering why you were questioning if it was authentic. Interesting. So the player wasn't quiet enough for him and he took it to the next level and replaced the chip to take another level up. It IS a super player! If I can get it going, it's probably pretty good. The power supply was probably at the auction with a pile of electronics, how sad. All I had were pictures to go by. I can't buy a power supply, huh? I wouldn't know how to make one. I didn't realize he was just filtering noise with all those capacitors. Probably noise that could only be seen with a scope. He just kept adding more and more filters. Is this normal? He probably made some super quiet power supply instead of the "inferior" Magnavox. seems like a pretty smart guy. In America we would say, trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Maybe it's silky.
Those caps are unique to the TDA1541/TDA1541A. The yellow caps are replacements for the original surface mount ones. It is usually a little tidier.
In answer to the edit, yes.
Whether or not the player will still work as a transport depends on how far the modifications went. If the SAA7220, the digital filter, was also removed from onboard power along with the TDA1541A then power will have be restored either by reverting the player to its original state or through an external power supply. The SAA7220 also provides the digital output. That being said, it will pretty easy to test so long as you have a dac to hand.
Whether or not the player will still work as a transport depends on how far the modifications went. If the SAA7220, the digital filter, was also removed from onboard power along with the TDA1541A then power will have be restored either by reverting the player to its original state or through an external power supply. The SAA7220 also provides the digital output. That being said, it will pretty easy to test so long as you have a dac to hand.
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