It looks like they're going underneath the perforated plate, headed for the filter PCB up front.
What I see is a wire from the PS board ground to the CL60, then from the CL60 to a ground screw on the base plate. Then the left channel speaker ground is connected to the ground screw.
Hello!
Speaker grounds are run back to the PSU, under the bottom plate and behind the PSU. Things connected to the ground screw are: the transformer, ground from the IEC inlet, the H9KPXG board and the PSU via a CL60. If I did it wrong (and this is perhaps more likely than not), I'd say that it's not bad wrong. It biased up very nicely and sounds dandy.
Speaker grounds are run back to the PSU, under the bottom plate and behind the PSU. Things connected to the ground screw are: the transformer, ground from the IEC inlet, the H9KPXG board and the PSU via a CL60. If I did it wrong (and this is perhaps more likely than not), I'd say that it's not bad wrong. It biased up very nicely and sounds dandy.
My eyes deceived me.
Connecting the speaker ground to the PS ground is not wrong. Some do it and as long as it is not noisy, it is fine. However I prefer to connect the speaker ground to the amplifier board as I believe that having all audio ground connections at common location on the amplifier board, at the same location as the power ground is best for lowest noise.
Connecting the speaker ground to the PS ground is not wrong. Some do it and as long as it is not noisy, it is fine. However I prefer to connect the speaker ground to the amplifier board as I believe that having all audio ground connections at common location on the amplifier board, at the same location as the power ground is best for lowest noise.
I built the Aleph J and the B1 Korg. Wow! I have upgraded my speakers to Crites "Cornscala" speakers-- somewhat similar to some of the bigger Klipsch speakers: 15" woofer, big JBL horn/driver plus tweeter. All of my digital input goes through a Topping E30 DAC. However, I've got the build-bug again. The only thing that I might wish for is a little more bass. Other than that I like everything about this set-up. So, how might I go about this? Different pre-amp? Different DAC? or ??? Please help me out here; I'm kind of looking for an excuse to build something.
it's easy regarding bass - just add fraction of Ohm resistor in line with speakers
resulting Qtc will go up, maybe you'll like it
resulting Qtc will go up, maybe you'll like it
This is coming from a non-audiophile with no technical specs or results to back this up. Also, this is just my opinion in my setup. I built both and still have both.
Try the F6. Build something new, use the same power supply and case you probably already have for the aleph j. To me, bass sounds better with the F6.
Try the F6. Build something new, use the same power supply and case you probably already have for the aleph j. To me, bass sounds better with the F6.
Well, this could be the remedy you are looking for. 🙂
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/full-range-eq.399413/
I went through similar scenario, driving my LaScala bass bins (15" eminence Kappa-15C 4Ohm) with extended reflex box, with my lovely AJ.
Really I never vibed poor bass with the AJ (yes, even with 4 Ohm woofers), but my Krell KSA80 was acting better in that region (only there).
Now using a 6-24XO and a BA3 on bass cabinet the result is excellent!
In addition to my link to the full range EQ, i have not built and tested mine yet 🙂…
… The Aleph J does not by far lack bass, to be clear, in my not so humble opinion.
But nothing wrong with wanting very lush and present bass power and juice:
So. Also test this:
Move the speakers closer to the back wall.
Add more dampening material to the bass enclosure.
Tune the bass reflex port.
Build larger boxes.
Attenuate the MF and HF.
Buy better performing, fuller sounding bass drivers.
🤘🙂🎸
… The Aleph J does not by far lack bass, to be clear, in my not so humble opinion.
But nothing wrong with wanting very lush and present bass power and juice:
So. Also test this:
Move the speakers closer to the back wall.
Add more dampening material to the bass enclosure.
Tune the bass reflex port.
Build larger boxes.
Attenuate the MF and HF.
Buy better performing, fuller sounding bass drivers.
🤘🙂🎸
And. I almost forgot… 🙂
Never EVER forget the extremely important in room threatment.
A bare, square, cold sounding echoe concretey/glassy room simply can not sound really good, for real. It is simply physically impossible. No DSP in all of the now known universe can fix a absolutely fundamentaly flawed bare, square echo room.
No matter how extremely good equipment you bring to that absolutely fundamentally bad sounding room: Boomy but lacking bass, ear screaming midrange. Cold, exaggerated treble.
Room ”treatment”? Build it. And then in addition to that, Use your imagination, lots of good ”regular room”stuff avaliable to add. More soft stuff is much better than less.
🙂🤚
Never EVER forget the extremely important in room threatment.
A bare, square, cold sounding echoe concretey/glassy room simply can not sound really good, for real. It is simply physically impossible. No DSP in all of the now known universe can fix a absolutely fundamentaly flawed bare, square echo room.
No matter how extremely good equipment you bring to that absolutely fundamentally bad sounding room: Boomy but lacking bass, ear screaming midrange. Cold, exaggerated treble.
Room ”treatment”? Build it. And then in addition to that, Use your imagination, lots of good ”regular room”stuff avaliable to add. More soft stuff is much better than less.
🙂🤚
Just finished my Aleph J last night and did my voltage adjustments. I set it at 400 mv and got my voltage across the speaker outputs to between 0 and 5 mv. I can get it a lower but it bounces around a little. I shut it down last night and fired it up this morning and started again. When I first turned it on the meters showed 472 and 467 mv and outputs showed 26 and 25 mv. It took almost an hour to settle down to the area of 400 mv, +/- 5 mv and about .6 and 1.3 mv on the speaker outputs. Temp readings on the heatsinks (4U) chassis, were 52-55c. Did a little tweaking and let it sit there for a couple of hours with the lid on and got it to stay around the 400 mv and outputs between 0-5 mv. I haven't hooked up a source and speakers yet but was wondering if the output voltages of 25/26 mv would cause any harm to the speakers on initial power up?
The Aleph J needs at least an hour to settle in to its thermal equilibrium (with typical Modushop chassis or similar), and generally sounds best after two hours or more. Just the nature of the beast.
The measurements you are getting and the behaviour are all exactly as they should be. It is time now to connect the speakers and listen. The 400mV bias may not be high enough for your taste. Also, the change in sound character from cold (470mV) to fully warmed up (400mV) is quite noticeable. You might be able to play a familiar song on repeat while monitoring the bias drop from cold, and see at what bias level/point you like the sound best. I settled at 430-440mV.
If you have a source that can mute the output by shorting the hot to ground you will be able to tell that anything + and - 30-40mV is not noticeable unless the speakers are very efficient.
My initial offest is 200mV but the C1 in my amp is bypassed. This offset is noticeable if I mute the output on my DAC, but I do not have any issue with that because within 10min the offset drops to 30mV, and then eventually settles at around 10mV after 30min or so. The final offset is around 5mV but this will largely depend on room temperature.
So I fired up the Aleph and of course there is a problem GRRRRR! One channel sounds normal, the other channel seems to be much lower volume. Any thoughts?