Yes, I see you haven't turned on phase.
In the last one, what is the purpose of C1, L1, R1, R6 and R7?
In the last one, what is the purpose of C1, L1, R1, R6 and R7?
R3/4/5 really are doing a disservice. It's that your woofer is your lowest sensitivity, and you are reducing it further.
The notch out front is likely compensating the Fs spike on the woofer so that the lowpass is not causing a peak in the woofer response. Honestly, a smaller gauge coil or a 50 ohm across the woofer will do the same thing less expensively. Try to keep the resistor above 40ohm if used and 25W minimum. This will keep current lower, and not sacrifice much sensitivity.
The notch out front is likely compensating the Fs spike on the woofer so that the lowpass is not causing a peak in the woofer response. Honestly, a smaller gauge coil or a 50 ohm across the woofer will do the same thing less expensively. Try to keep the resistor above 40ohm if used and 25W minimum. This will keep current lower, and not sacrifice much sensitivity.
stick to parallel, series is a bit more tricky to get right beyond 1st order
Re:'why I see a mess of resistors in expensive crossovers' - because the designer is inexperienced
Re:'why I see a mess of resistors in expensive crossovers' - because the designer is inexperienced
In all reality, you should not need more than 10 resistors serving different functions- ever. You can likely use 5 to 6 count at most, most of the time.
Impedance chart with that circuit:
And yes, I am very, very inexperienced. I saw this style and the original had only one resistor where I have 3 (R1-R6-R7 & R3-R4-R5). One 20W resistor can't dissipate the heat at 100 watts. So, I change the resistance and add a few more to spread out the load to maintain the same affect.
R3/4/5 Are attenuating the woofers as shown in this chart with those resistors.
You won't. It only increases the current the amp supplies that isn't related to the speaker. You're best leaving them out
Well, if you're using a Tube amplifier with transformer output, it could indeed be a good thing.Notice how the impedance level stays above 8 ohms. Is that a good thing?
However, designing a Xover with the prime intent to keep everything above 8 ohms can introduce
unwanted compromises as I found years ago pursuing that 8 ohm minimum.
With good quality transistor amplifiers, you shouldn't fear or worry about impedances dropping to 4 ohms.
The worst crossover from all presented until now.
I hope that you will not use these on the final speaker. With this crossover more than 50% you will transform in heat, maybe even more than 60%.
Attach the archive with the project on the forum.
So you should decrease the padding on the mid and tweeter then f compensate when leaving the woofer resistors out. You are wasting power into heat.
Ok. I went through and made some changes to this series idea. The frequency response changed only minutely, but the impedance is raised across the board. And wolf-teeth said I was wasting power into heat. Just for ***** and giggles I'll show my work.
I reckon this idea is destined for the trash bin. At least I learned that this XO style isn't suited for my design.
I want to thank everyone for your input, this is a learning process for me.
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You can get any result you want with either series or conventional crossover, so suitability isn't an absolute. The reason series is popular is that it gives a range of fortunate properties to well selected drivers for few components.. ie value for money. One example is the way it gives partial automatic impedance compensation.
Back to the matter at hand. I wasn't going to mention the resistor but it may be working against your baffle step compensation. You don't appear to have modified your plots to include the effects (correct me if that's not the case). Removing the resistor may mostly attend to the issue by increasing bass output.
A radius won't do this. It will mitigate the diffraction issue at middle and higher frequencies but it won't attend to your baffle step.
Just off hand - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...overs-without-measurement.189847/post-2587232
Of course it's a big topic and difficult to cover in one article. Were you asking anything in particular?
Of course it's a big topic and difficult to cover in one article. Were you asking anything in particular?
Many people on the forum told you that series resistors are not allowed with the woofers. It's like you're pretending that you don't understand this, that it's not allowed to have resistors in series with the bass speakers.
A simple calculation: 8Ω speakers (equivalent) and 10Ω series resistance and only 40% of the voltage reaches the speakers. So you lose a lot of power to the resistance, simultaneously with a significant reduction in speaker sensitivity.
On another note, a friend told me that a speaker will never have too much bass, at most the rest of the speakers don't have enough sensitivity.
You must remember that between 40 and 60% of the output power of the amplifier reaches the woofer in the case of music.
In the end, you will get an energy (music) to heat converter, a converter that will also generate some sounds.
If you try to correct different irregularities in the response of the bass speakers in this way, you should know that the ear cannot detect those irregularities unless they are very, very large, otherwise you will not feel anything.
A simple calculation: 8Ω speakers (equivalent) and 10Ω series resistance and only 40% of the voltage reaches the speakers. So you lose a lot of power to the resistance, simultaneously with a significant reduction in speaker sensitivity.
On another note, a friend told me that a speaker will never have too much bass, at most the rest of the speakers don't have enough sensitivity.
You must remember that between 40 and 60% of the output power of the amplifier reaches the woofer in the case of music.
In the end, you will get an energy (music) to heat converter, a converter that will also generate some sounds.
If you try to correct different irregularities in the response of the bass speakers in this way, you should know that the ear cannot detect those irregularities unless they are very, very large, otherwise you will not feel anything.
If I wanted to use a resistor on a woofer, I would do it assuming it was the best way I could think to solve a problem. I'm just not sure OP should be aiming for a flat response in this case..?
Years ago, when I re-built my Yamaha NS-50T's,
using a rear 10" - "Actively Assisted Radiator", I found in 'fine tuning' the need to
introduce 2 ohms of resistance to the input of the crossover.
This not only 'tamed' a low point of impedance, but also gave slight boost in bass.
However, I really don't recommend more than 1 or 2 ohms of resistance driving woofers.
One real consequence is that you loose your amplifiers damping factor upon the woofer.
using a rear 10" - "Actively Assisted Radiator", I found in 'fine tuning' the need to
introduce 2 ohms of resistance to the input of the crossover.
This not only 'tamed' a low point of impedance, but also gave slight boost in bass.
However, I really don't recommend more than 1 or 2 ohms of resistance driving woofers.
One real consequence is that you loose your amplifiers damping factor upon the woofer.