As you said,
"It plays fine on "Main in" (there is a split between pre and main (4 RCA)) - so problem must be in pre/line section"
So please do not do anything to the power amplifier section, since it is fine.
You could easily cause a new problem that you don't have now, and that would be unfortunate.
"It plays fine on "Main in" (there is a split between pre and main (4 RCA)) - so problem must be in pre/line section"
So please do not do anything to the power amplifier section, since it is fine.
You could easily cause a new problem that you don't have now, and that would be unfortunate.
Find an insulin syringe, use it to spray a match head of front fork oil, sewing machine oil or clock oil into the mechanism.
Those oils are long lasting, should act as lube.
Poor substitute for CRC or Deoxit.
Best would be transformer oil, but that is sold by the barrel.
Ideal if you can find a small quantity.
Those oils are long lasting, should act as lube.
Poor substitute for CRC or Deoxit.
Best would be transformer oil, but that is sold by the barrel.
Ideal if you can find a small quantity.
WD-40 is basically hydro treated naptha...transformer oil.
Hydraulic oils last for years without spoiling, provided they are low on moisture.
Clock oil and sewing machine oil do contain less than 10% lubricant, but a tiny match head quantity, the excess of which will drip down, should be safe.
Safer than iso-propyl alcohol, which can damage some plastics.
Easier than sitting around waiting for the can to arrive, or not...depends on you.
Hydraulic oils last for years without spoiling, provided they are low on moisture.
Clock oil and sewing machine oil do contain less than 10% lubricant, but a tiny match head quantity, the excess of which will drip down, should be safe.
Safer than iso-propyl alcohol, which can damage some plastics.
Easier than sitting around waiting for the can to arrive, or not...depends on you.
See post #23.
Or perhaps those giving bad advice, will pay for the repairs which may be necessary
after following said advice.
I have been using DeoxIT D5 for nearly 50 years, and would never use anything else.
This has never failed to clean dirty electronic controls well, and restore normal performance.
One can of this lasts many years, so there is no reason for worry about cost, which is a few cents per use.
Of course it cannot repair mechanically worn contacts, which must be replaced rather than cleaned.
Or perhaps those giving bad advice, will pay for the repairs which may be necessary
after following said advice.
I have been using DeoxIT D5 for nearly 50 years, and would never use anything else.
This has never failed to clean dirty electronic controls well, and restore normal performance.
One can of this lasts many years, so there is no reason for worry about cost, which is a few cents per use.
Of course it cannot repair mechanically worn contacts, which must be replaced rather than cleaned.
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However one more thing I noticed - I set the input selector to Phono with open inputs - I have hum. Inserting blind plugs, I assume there is a short in the plug - stoped the hum. Is this normal behaviour for a MM input?
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In my experience, lube oil is made by adding additives to base oil.
Engine and transmission oils, intended to be changed regularly, have detergents and heat stabilizing agents added to clean up the works, and withstand heat.
Hydraulic oils have anti wear additives, and are intended for max. 80C temperature, 50 is high for normal use.
Hydraulic oil also sells in 20 liter and larger packages, and front fork oil is really hydraulic oil, and is sold here in 250 ml / 8 oz. packs, much handier.
But it is an emergency / stopgap / poor substitute solution, like I said above.
I normally have a can of CRC 2-26 handy, very good on contactors, increases life many times.
I used it revive dirty pots on my Kenwood set, so I will vouch for it, never seen DeoxIT sold here in India. So I cannot give a comparison.
WD-40, silicon mold release spray, and iso alcohol are also fixtures at work.
Have to get chloroform, acetone and PEK (Carbon Tetra chloride substitute as contact cleaner.)
Engine and transmission oils, intended to be changed regularly, have detergents and heat stabilizing agents added to clean up the works, and withstand heat.
Hydraulic oils have anti wear additives, and are intended for max. 80C temperature, 50 is high for normal use.
Hydraulic oil also sells in 20 liter and larger packages, and front fork oil is really hydraulic oil, and is sold here in 250 ml / 8 oz. packs, much handier.
But it is an emergency / stopgap / poor substitute solution, like I said above.
I normally have a can of CRC 2-26 handy, very good on contactors, increases life many times.
I used it revive dirty pots on my Kenwood set, so I will vouch for it, never seen DeoxIT sold here in India. So I cannot give a comparison.
WD-40, silicon mold release spray, and iso alcohol are also fixtures at work.
Have to get chloroform, acetone and PEK (Carbon Tetra chloride substitute as contact cleaner.)
I think you said all that already ;-D
So - I'm glad, amp works, thanks all who contributed with good advise!
Case closed.... 🙂
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So - I'm glad, amp works, thanks all who contributed with good advise!
Case closed.... 🙂
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https://www2.atmos.umd.edu/~russ/MSDS/deoxIT.pdf
It uses naptha as the carrier, it seems that 75% is naptha, 20% propane / isobutane and 5% is proprietary stuff, which is not disclosed.
It uses naptha as the carrier, it seems that 75% is naptha, 20% propane / isobutane and 5% is proprietary stuff, which is not disclosed.