To @cyclotronguy 's point, even if you get the [dry] bit, you could likely also rent a tile saw from the local box store and use that water system. The one I got could be adapted to your purpose, the tray emptied into a 5 gallon bucket as a sump and the way it was plumbed could have been adapted to sit your plate in there (or even just re-plumbing the hoses temporarily). I might do it all in a $10 plastic kiddie pool though, it was still messy. The only issue I had was someone lost their 30A plug cheater cord, so I had to rewire an extension cord.
Thickness isn't hard as long as you don't get into a hurry and push harder, it just takes as long as it takes (and possibly more than one bit depending, I can't speak to to how long they last.
Because it's all about taking your time and keeping things aligned, I can't speak to your success with a hand drill, it might be worth a cheap drill press just to not have cramps.
On one hand you said "The hole doesn't have to be perfect. It is just for clearance.", but then later "Don't want to chain drill it even though it won't be visible." So that gives me pause, so @rif and others may have the better solution - is there a kid to haul it up the steps or possibly have another one made.
Thickness isn't hard as long as you don't get into a hurry and push harder, it just takes as long as it takes (and possibly more than one bit depending, I can't speak to to how long they last.
Because it's all about taking your time and keeping things aligned, I can't speak to your success with a hand drill, it might be worth a cheap drill press just to not have cramps.
On one hand you said "The hole doesn't have to be perfect. It is just for clearance.", but then later "Don't want to chain drill it even though it won't be visible." So that gives me pause, so @rif and others may have the better solution - is there a kid to haul it up the steps or possibly have another one made.
The surface plates are $200 each . So I'd need one. Couple of hundred more for CAD drawing and cutting I estimate.
Maybe $400.00 total
Maybe $400.00 total
The plate weighs 150 pounds so needs more than one body.
Seems like one large hole is easier than multiple overlapping holes considering the material
Seems like one large hole is easier than multiple overlapping holes considering the material
Interesting question:
I have work with granite for a quite a few years. Used it for bases on tall speakers. Made a rather large terrace outside my house and other projects I am a big fan of stone things.
It is really quite easy to cut, drill and core with a drill press. I make a "doughnut dam" from a strip of towel rolled up lengthwise then rolled again into a doughnut shape a little bigger than the hole I want to core. I use a squirt bottle full of water to keep the cutting surface of the core bit cool, the dam keeps the mud slurry from making a mess of the drill press. You do not need a lot of water just enough to keep the cutting surface cool, and the slurry fairly thin. The core bit is diamond tipped and needs to be cool so the matrix holding the diamonds does not "melt" and drop out the diamonds. I core out the hole to the desired depth plus a bit, then put a couple of slot screw drivers in the core channel and tap one of them with a hammer and while pulling toward the centre of the hole. This helps keep the energy from the hammer moving toward the centre for the breakout and tends to reduce the edge chip out on the outside of the hole. This should break the core out. It will not likely come out cleanly. I then with another bit I make a smaller hole and repeat till I get it cleaned out as best I can. Blind bottom holes are tough you may need to cut concentric rings to the desired depth and then do the screw driver break out trick. 1/2 to 3/4" spacing on the rings seems to work. Practice on a scrap so you can refine your technique. It is not really a tough challenge once you get you head around it. Check out your local granite countershop for a scrap piece to play with. A masonry supply store with sell core bits of various sizes. I also do the final cleanout with an old chisel.
I would steer away from a hammer drill as it may cause an errant fracture in the main body of the plinth material.
I hope this helps
I have work with granite for a quite a few years. Used it for bases on tall speakers. Made a rather large terrace outside my house and other projects I am a big fan of stone things.
It is really quite easy to cut, drill and core with a drill press. I make a "doughnut dam" from a strip of towel rolled up lengthwise then rolled again into a doughnut shape a little bigger than the hole I want to core. I use a squirt bottle full of water to keep the cutting surface of the core bit cool, the dam keeps the mud slurry from making a mess of the drill press. You do not need a lot of water just enough to keep the cutting surface cool, and the slurry fairly thin. The core bit is diamond tipped and needs to be cool so the matrix holding the diamonds does not "melt" and drop out the diamonds. I core out the hole to the desired depth plus a bit, then put a couple of slot screw drivers in the core channel and tap one of them with a hammer and while pulling toward the centre of the hole. This helps keep the energy from the hammer moving toward the centre for the breakout and tends to reduce the edge chip out on the outside of the hole. This should break the core out. It will not likely come out cleanly. I then with another bit I make a smaller hole and repeat till I get it cleaned out as best I can. Blind bottom holes are tough you may need to cut concentric rings to the desired depth and then do the screw driver break out trick. 1/2 to 3/4" spacing on the rings seems to work. Practice on a scrap so you can refine your technique. It is not really a tough challenge once you get you head around it. Check out your local granite countershop for a scrap piece to play with. A masonry supply store with sell core bits of various sizes. I also do the final cleanout with an old chisel.
I would steer away from a hammer drill as it may cause an errant fracture in the main body of the plinth material.
I hope this helps
I do not see the point of using a metro-logy grade surface plate to support a turntable.
You can use 1" ready granite slabs, after polishing, they are pretty flat, you can use a spirit level and shims to make it level.
Or a counter top, cut to size if needed. I think those are thicker.
What sort of feedback is the heater getting from the bearing base?
A thinner oil, or a different grease may make the heaters superfluous.
@SCD, he wants to work on a 3" thick plate, that is a lot more work than a 1" piece of granite.
I have a granite surface plate for inspecting molded parts, a small one.
And one of my uncles had two granite factories, he used to cut slabs from blocks and polish them for building use, so I have some idea about the difficulty of the job.
If indeed you do it, use diamond tipped tools, and if you are able to, get CBN tipped tools, much cheaper and mechanically rugged compared to diamond tips, that will be useful when going deep.
And think of dealing with the coolant, make sure you have a means to dispose of it after use, use small paint pails or similar.
Bear in mind that normal masonry bits are carbide tips brazed to the end of a shank, the shank is usually a material that will convey the material out of the hole, and withstand shock, ordinary medium carbon steel is enough for that.
You can use 1" ready granite slabs, after polishing, they are pretty flat, you can use a spirit level and shims to make it level.
Or a counter top, cut to size if needed. I think those are thicker.
What sort of feedback is the heater getting from the bearing base?
A thinner oil, or a different grease may make the heaters superfluous.
@SCD, he wants to work on a 3" thick plate, that is a lot more work than a 1" piece of granite.
I have a granite surface plate for inspecting molded parts, a small one.
And one of my uncles had two granite factories, he used to cut slabs from blocks and polish them for building use, so I have some idea about the difficulty of the job.
If indeed you do it, use diamond tipped tools, and if you are able to, get CBN tipped tools, much cheaper and mechanically rugged compared to diamond tips, that will be useful when going deep.
And think of dealing with the coolant, make sure you have a means to dispose of it after use, use small paint pails or similar.
Bear in mind that normal masonry bits are carbide tips brazed to the end of a shank, the shank is usually a material that will convey the material out of the hole, and withstand shock, ordinary medium carbon steel is enough for that.
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hello @NareshBrd and others:
The thickness of the material is less important than the depth of the hole. If it is a through hole it just takes a little longer and requires a more stable set up. As I said a drill press will work just fine. The longer core bit will be more expensive. With proper set up it is quite simple and is easy to DIY.
If the hole depth it is deep enough for clearance on the tip of the new bearing that is a different discussion and the technique I described will work just fine.
Criticism because you disagree with the concept does little to help a fellow out or to further the discussion to a possible solution.
Have a nice day, if you can
The thickness of the material is less important than the depth of the hole. If it is a through hole it just takes a little longer and requires a more stable set up. As I said a drill press will work just fine. The longer core bit will be more expensive. With proper set up it is quite simple and is easy to DIY.
If the hole depth it is deep enough for clearance on the tip of the new bearing that is a different discussion and the technique I described will work just fine.
Criticism because you disagree with the concept does little to help a fellow out or to further the discussion to a possible solution.
Have a nice day, if you can
I think that I did say it was a difficult job, and gave cautionary warnings, as did others.
So that the OP has some idea of the job, as the previous plinths were delivered after cutting.
I also posted tips about the tools to be used.
There are others who use fish tank heaters to keep the bearing temperature nearly constant, how much it affects the sound is very much the user's decision.
It is like a pebble in your shoe during a hike, you can bear it, or take off the shoe in the middle of a field, remove a finger tip size stone, and lace up your shoe again.
If there a simple and reliable solution, I personally use that, but you have to respect the judgement and decision of the user.
If someone does a Rube Goldberg solution, or something similarly over complicated, that person is getting a mental satisfaction that his solution was the best solution.
You have to respect that thinking, and the effort behind it.
So that the OP has some idea of the job, as the previous plinths were delivered after cutting.
I also posted tips about the tools to be used.
There are others who use fish tank heaters to keep the bearing temperature nearly constant, how much it affects the sound is very much the user's decision.
It is like a pebble in your shoe during a hike, you can bear it, or take off the shoe in the middle of a field, remove a finger tip size stone, and lace up your shoe again.
If there a simple and reliable solution, I personally use that, but you have to respect the judgement and decision of the user.
If someone does a Rube Goldberg solution, or something similarly over complicated, that person is getting a mental satisfaction that his solution was the best solution.
You have to respect that thinking, and the effort behind it.
Thanks for all the suggestions. The surface plates were surprisingly inexpensive 5 years ago when I did this. Cheaper than the countertop suppliers and much thicker at 3 inches.
The heaters just shorten the warm up time. I do not have the hearing to detect a warm vs cold bearing. The reptile tank heaters were cheap and easy. They stay on all the time and run about 90 degrees adding a little heat to the innards. Td-124s are notoriously slow to get up to a stable speed.
The heaters just shorten the warm up time. I do not have the hearing to detect a warm vs cold bearing. The reptile tank heaters were cheap and easy. They stay on all the time and run about 90 degrees adding a little heat to the innards. Td-124s are notoriously slow to get up to a stable speed.
If it's that difficult to take it to someone to cut/drill, then how did it get where it is now...........
Four boys that have since moved. Neighborhood has changed now just little kids.
Would need the assistance twice rather than the one time install.
Easier to get down a long flight of stairs than up.
Shop that did the waterjet does not take small jobs any longer.
New shop requires a CAD drawing - beyond the scope of my abilities.
I am not as limber nor as strong as I was 5 years ago and neither are my friends.
Seems easier to try and bore one hole either all the way through or a blind 1 inch deep hole than move the plate.
Would need the assistance twice rather than the one time install.
Easier to get down a long flight of stairs than up.
Shop that did the waterjet does not take small jobs any longer.
New shop requires a CAD drawing - beyond the scope of my abilities.
I am not as limber nor as strong as I was 5 years ago and neither are my friends.
Seems easier to try and bore one hole either all the way through or a blind 1 inch deep hole than move the plate.
I was wondering if you were thinking through hole or blind hole.
Looks like you've selected your course of action.
If a replacement is $400 + engineering drawings, I think I would accept the price of a $200-300 drill press and go with @SCD 's experience and method. You can always sell the drill press later.
Looks like you've selected your course of action.
If a replacement is $400 + engineering drawings, I think I would accept the price of a $200-300 drill press and go with @SCD 's experience and method. You can always sell the drill press later.
How about hiring someone to do it? I'm sure that there are countertop installers that would be willing to do it for cash.
Drive around your neighborhood looking vans that are doing work.
(it's also a great way to get excellent prices on tree removal, asphalt driveways, small mulching. the key is NOT to be the first person to hire them).
Drive around your neighborhood looking vans that are doing work.
(it's also a great way to get excellent prices on tree removal, asphalt driveways, small mulching. the key is NOT to be the first person to hire them).
I have a drill press. Throat is too shallow and moving either the drill press down to the table or vice-versa has the mentioned barriers.
Here's a diamond hole saw.
Use a hand drill, and add a lot of patience.
Since even moving the piece is difficult now, not a lot of options.
Seems like you can build a little dam around the drill area with putty or something and add a little water in the drill area to keep the bit cool.
Side note. I changed the kitchen double sink in my daughter's place this past weekend in a granite countertop. For a little while, I though I was going to have to enlarge the sink cutout on all sides, would have been a huge pain. But figured out I could remove the strips in the new sink that were causing the problem, and then glued down the new sink to keep it in place.
Randy
Use a hand drill, and add a lot of patience.
Since even moving the piece is difficult now, not a lot of options.
Seems like you can build a little dam around the drill area with putty or something and add a little water in the drill area to keep the bit cool.
Side note. I changed the kitchen double sink in my daughter's place this past weekend in a granite countertop. For a little while, I though I was going to have to enlarge the sink cutout on all sides, would have been a huge pain. But figured out I could remove the strips in the new sink that were causing the problem, and then glued down the new sink to keep it in place.
Randy
Hello again,
A few more thoughts to consider:
Are you trying to drill a through hole or a shallow hole.
If it is shallow, you could sculpt the depth out with a diamond stone saw bit on a grinder. Use a bit of water, as discussed before, to try and keep the dust down, make a criss cross pattern then chisel it out and smooth with the grinder. A little coarse but it will work. Generally dusty and rough.
If a through hole and a hand drill, use a pilot bit to keep the hole saw centred, or make jig with a peice of plywood. The cutter will skate around during start up if not controled. You may be able to drill the pilot hole first with a hammer drill then switch to slow speed. The pilot hole is really just needed to a get a good clean start and set your vertical angle. Same with a plywood jig just for a good straight clean startup.
Go part way, chisel it out then carry on. Do not try to go the full depth of the saw as it will likely bind during drilling and heat up losing temper. This will be a little tricky and likely quite dusty drilling the pilot hole. Water and a squirt bottle are your friend. Use a 1/2 inch >5amp variable speed drill with a cord on it. try not to lean on it too hard, keep the cutting edge cool with water.
I hope this helps
A few more thoughts to consider:
Are you trying to drill a through hole or a shallow hole.
If it is shallow, you could sculpt the depth out with a diamond stone saw bit on a grinder. Use a bit of water, as discussed before, to try and keep the dust down, make a criss cross pattern then chisel it out and smooth with the grinder. A little coarse but it will work. Generally dusty and rough.
If a through hole and a hand drill, use a pilot bit to keep the hole saw centred, or make jig with a peice of plywood. The cutter will skate around during start up if not controled. You may be able to drill the pilot hole first with a hammer drill then switch to slow speed. The pilot hole is really just needed to a get a good clean start and set your vertical angle. Same with a plywood jig just for a good straight clean startup.
Go part way, chisel it out then carry on. Do not try to go the full depth of the saw as it will likely bind during drilling and heat up losing temper. This will be a little tricky and likely quite dusty drilling the pilot hole. Water and a squirt bottle are your friend. Use a 1/2 inch >5amp variable speed drill with a cord on it. try not to lean on it too hard, keep the cutting edge cool with water.
I hope this helps
@WntrMute2 is your name from the AI in William Gibson's novel Neoromancer? On a whim I asked the AI ChatGPT, and pretty much got the advice everyone is giving on drilling.
Why not add a third layer of granite ( or another layer of a different material you like... doesn't have to be granite, ....experiment to your hearts content ) and bore a hole of suitable diameter into that layer and sandwich this third layer in between your two existing layers. The thickness of this third layer sandwich layer fitted in between the two existing ones would only have be the depth of the hole you would drill into your bottom plinth layer. Make this third layer in such a way that it could support your top plinth layer.... just a thought.
Well, I guessed from the pictures the slab is ~20x28 so I looked up the cost for a 10" throat drill press, which at 55 pounds seemed doable with a hand-dolly.
But if that's too much, I concede.
I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit.
It's the only way to be sure.