The "No-Compromise Compromise" from Wilson Audio: "TuneTot" Mini Monitor - Worth to Clone ??

The retail price of Wilson Audio's smallest bookshelf speaker (already again 5 years old Wilson Audio's entry-level model) is $9800 or $10,500 per pair in the United States and in Germany 12.000€-14.000€ depending on the color selected (the five options available are new to Wilson’s repertoire of standard finishes) and selected accessories.
A friend of me have heard this model anywhere and want to build a loudspeaker in similar kind.

However, it should not be an exact clone of the original, but just a mini monitor with good sounded and reliable long live modern drivers.
The enclosure/cabinet will be double-walled (sandwich) with sand/lead shot filling.

He knows how to design good loudspeakers and crossovers (maybe one will arise a no-compromise version instead a "No-Compromise Compromise").
The question should therefore only be whether the Scan Speak drivers mentioned below (which of course are not absolutely identical to those of Wilson audio's custom made from Scan-Speak), are in general a good choice.
Maybe some members have experiences with the mentioned models from Scan Speak's Illuminator and Revelator-series:
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15wu-8741t00.pdf (~750€-800€)
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8530k00.pdf (~440€-450€)
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8531k00.pdf (~400€-450€
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/d3004-662000.pdf (~450€-500€) those under
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/d2904-710003.pdf (~560€-650€)
All listed low-midrange drivers run great as full-range drivers - properly installed. Without crossover. Tuning by spreading damping or hardening materials.
If a tweeter is desired, I would make it separately connectable. No switch. And only one voltage divider, one capacitor.

Housing I would glue together from stone or aluminum. Offers, including hole cutouts, there are on the net.

No sockets and plugs. The strings go from the driver to the amplifier.

...
 
It is highly amusing to observe how the reviewers dance on a needle to reconcile poor measurements (e.g. B&W off axis behaviour) ) and raving reviews, so at the end of the day it is easier to publish no measurements at all... After all, a measurement is..... just a measurement. Who needs science if we can have an opinion?

It looks good.
It is very expensive.
The manufacturer/importer/designer delivers it and sets is up.
It is BIG and HEAVY.
Or- it is SMALL and HEAVY.
There is a ton of pseudo technical mumbo jumbo.
The marketing department provides ad copy so that the article is 75% written.
The internal wiring is triple virgin.
There are lots of adjustments.
They company rep buys you dinner and comes to your house with good bourbon and cigars.
The company buys ads on the magazine.

Hmm... that was what HP tried NOT to do with TAS in the beginning.

+++

As I get older, it's dawning on me that simplicity is better. A nice, high efficiency, widebander with NO crossover and perhaps a little bit of gain with a low woofer and a super tweeter is all that's needed.
 
^I think cumbb was joking that when the speaker looks flashy and shiny with all kinds of smoke and mirrors, bells and whistless it must sound good because it looks good 😉 better keep measurement graphs on the back pocket and lure customer buy with emotion, by the looks, by the marketing play book.

To me buying such speaker is just (rich) consumer zombie consuming and business exploiting it happily. I would never ever want to interact with such company or their products personally. I just can't believe how shallow thinking that is, buy something like this. Same price would buy for example some Genelecs who actually make speakers for good sound, while trying to do it environmentally friendly and so on, much more healthier relationship with customer and business. Not as flashy looks though, so not appealing those who measure with eye and price tag.

It is important that these luxyry products, like loudspeakers are, look good. I just loathe the business model they seem to have, that often builds on the looks and is nothing more. For expensive loudspeakers I would expect the sound be optimized before looks, but thats just me. How about buying luxyry wrist watch you couldn't actually look time from because it can't keep it more than few hours? jewelry, nice and flashy but no other function.

But, aesthetics are different for everyone, and other values like ego boost owning products from brands give kicks to some so why not.
 
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...though he (*) hadn't considered the phisiological and inherently 'personalized' way of processing what is catched by the ears ( tymphanum), and, talking about 'shoebox size' speakers, they're great in respect to bigger speakers, so, nowadays, you've got to pay for it.
 
The strings go from the driver to the amplifier..

Perhaps Mr cucumbber should just eliminate the weakest point in the chain and attach the 'strings' directly to his.. ahem, does a virtual trollbot have any anatomy to speak of.. however, how about a ooeygooey 300B amp without a disgusting opt with tons of hb hysteresis? :::-------)
 
Thinking more about the op post: I would design the looks first and leave acoustic as after thought. Make it look as good as possibly can, to exact taste of the person who wants it. Then use good looking drivers on it, expensive ones, good looking crossover parts and connectors, the expensive ones. Add as much visual details, bells and whistles as possible. Looks before sound quality, and let the sound quality be what ever it ends up. Doesn't mean you could not optimize sound quality but don't let it define the looks in anyway. Its never going to be perfect anyway just because of the small size, SPL will be limited 😉
 
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All listed low-midrange drivers run great as full-range drivers - properly installed. Without crossover. Tuning by spreading damping or hardening materials.
If a tweeter is desired, I would make it separately connectable. No switch. And only one voltage divider, one capacitor.

Housing I would glue together from stone or aluminum. Offers, including hole cutouts, there are on the net.

No sockets and plugs. The strings go from the driver to the amplifier.

...
Nice we share the same thoughts but it takes lots of experimentons, listening sessions etc means slow & time consuming Lol
 
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I don't want to dump on the original poster; that's not fair, and that's not in the collegial spirit of this forum. The vast majority of audiophiles, even the most extreme of the high-end enthusiasts, have only heard high-end audio in retail stores or hifi shows.

Very few audiophiles have heard the kind of serious DIY systems that have been built in this forum, which soar far above any commercial product you can buy, and certainly far above the $150,000 to $400,000 audiophile speakers demonstrated at hifi shows.

That's why sincere requests for a "clone" of XYZ boutique confection lands with such a loud CLANG in this forum. The serious DIY poster in this forum knows these wretched, and often quite ugly, things are cynical marketing exercises aimed at gullible consumers, foolish enough to trust magazine reviewers.

I've been in the listening rooms of well-known reviewers, often cluttered with all kinds of weird little gizmos. In one room, I nearly tripped over a set of dominoes placed in a "V" pattern on the floor. The sound in that room was so grotesque and unreal it was hard to describe. I thought, as I drove away, that the sound in my Toyota Prius (which is NOT good) had to be more musically satisfying than what I just heard in that living room. Out of morbid curiosity, I pulled over, and put the CD I had been listening to in that living room, and listened to the same track on the car stereo. Yup, the factory car stereo (in a Prius) was better.

That experience created my new yardstick for high-end audio these days ... is it worse than the factory stereo in my car? At least half the time, yes, it's actually worse. Not joking here. I'm 100% serious.

I think a lot of DIY'ers here would be shocked to hear the systems of big-name reviewers ... and not in a good way. You think the sound at shows is bad? You ain't heard nothin' yet.
 
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All listed low-midrange drivers run great as full-range drivers - properly installed. Without crossover. Tuning by spreading damping or hardening materials.
If a tweeter is desired, I would make it separately connectable. No switch. And only one voltage divider, one capacitor.


Housing I would glue together from stone or aluminum. Offers, including hole cutouts, there are on the net.

No sockets and plugs. The strings go from the driver to the amplifier.

...
Thank you for that advice - may favorite solution in general is the realize of three modes:
1) only full range without tweeter
2) only additional super tweeter in the kind of the legendary TW074 from AUDAX/POLYDAX
3) typical two-way with HP/TP that have BU-III or LR-IV character
Especially the model under
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15w-8530k00.pdf
show a good behavior in the upper roll-off.

I am looking for other loudspeaker brands and models equipped with same driver series from Scan-Speak in this size.
 
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Why copy such a deeply flawed speaker? You've seen the measurements, which are not good at all. And in my experience at hifi shows, they sound like they measure ... not flat, with strong colorations. What's the point?
I think, you are right (for this reason I have just this mentioned in post #1).
But I am quite sure, that the reason for this was not a bad choice of this Scan Speak drivers but in a 6db crossover network, which was previously favored by Dynaudio.
 
I love to rebuild the kids' Dynaudio, for example: The 15W75 also runs great without a tweeter. Their crossovers smear everything into a grey, flat, lifeless mush. So the 15W75 is braced and decoupled, coated if necessary, then the strings are connected directly and the tweeter can be switched on.
All the kids' jaws drop - assuming a good source and good amplifier;-)

I would use this Scan Speak driver, look for an appropriate enclosure size, line the enclosures, then add a bit of cloth, brace and decouple the drivers, set them up and listen. Then a little tuning work, tweeter on top if desired;-)
The stands are just as important with regard to the sound: NO wood or wooden material.
Your kids ("high-end freaks") won't be able to lift their jaws anymore;-)
 
Same price would buy for example some Genelecs who actually make speakers for good sound,
I think the TuneTots are mainly marketed for people that already own something like the Alexia or Alexx and think "I should get a small cheap speaker for my office too from these guys". They have no idea about any Genelecs.

I doubt many people would consider the TuneTots for their first/main speakers
 
What are these ramblings on the Market?
The market Is dead from Many years, and I don't know what these reviews are directed to. I get acquaintance of their existence because of the links in here, but I doubt that other than a group of 'aficionados' would get in touch with those world