Hey there,
I have this huge 24inch speaker from fane laying around since quite a while and I always wanted to build an enclousure for it.
My main problem is that almost every design I could think of is using way more space than I am willing to sacrifice.
I‘m thinking that with a sinple closed box I‘m just not using the whole potential this driver is giving but in order to get a well playing ported box I need more than 1000l to really play below 30hz.
I would be super happy if anybody has a Idea on what enclosure is fitting this speaker the best.
My goal is to have a box with a volume around 500l total to use for watching movies and listen to some music.
I want the sub to play from mid 20hz up to at least 80hz.
The TS prameters are:
fs: 21hz
Re: 6Ohm
Qes: 0.54
Qms: 4.1
Qts: 0.48
Vas: 980l
Vd: 3.8l
Cms: 1.7MNx10^-4
BL: 17.1Tesla
Mms: 316g
Rms: 11Ohm
Thank you guys!
I have this huge 24inch speaker from fane laying around since quite a while and I always wanted to build an enclousure for it.
My main problem is that almost every design I could think of is using way more space than I am willing to sacrifice.
I‘m thinking that with a sinple closed box I‘m just not using the whole potential this driver is giving but in order to get a well playing ported box I need more than 1000l to really play below 30hz.
I would be super happy if anybody has a Idea on what enclosure is fitting this speaker the best.
My goal is to have a box with a volume around 500l total to use for watching movies and listen to some music.
I want the sub to play from mid 20hz up to at least 80hz.
The TS prameters are:
fs: 21hz
Re: 6Ohm
Qes: 0.54
Qms: 4.1
Qts: 0.48
Vas: 980l
Vd: 3.8l
Cms: 1.7MNx10^-4
BL: 17.1Tesla
Mms: 316g
Rms: 11Ohm
Thank you guys!
Attachments
woah, that’s a beast!
I am an open baffle fanatic, and with those parameters you could build an awesome OB sub. Flat baffle, U-frame or H-frame could all work. OB is not the deepest or loudest option, but has the best sound quality in my opinion. You can see one that I built for example: http://natursound.com/boom.html
Infinite baffle could also work, if you wanted to build a faux wall.
Alternatively, you could try something like the Rat Sounds super sub: a tube in a box with the four corners acting as ports. This is like a hybrid of a transmission line / band pass.
Others will probably have better suggestions.
I am an open baffle fanatic, and with those parameters you could build an awesome OB sub. Flat baffle, U-frame or H-frame could all work. OB is not the deepest or loudest option, but has the best sound quality in my opinion. You can see one that I built for example: http://natursound.com/boom.html
Infinite baffle could also work, if you wanted to build a faux wall.
Alternatively, you could try something like the Rat Sounds super sub: a tube in a box with the four corners acting as ports. This is like a hybrid of a transmission line / band pass.
Others will probably have better suggestions.
Why not sealed with a linkwitz transform. Works great with speaker/box qtc native around 1,2. From there you redefine fc and final qt as you like ( almost... driver will let you know if it isn't happy).
Thanks for the suggestion!woah, that’s a beast!
I am an open baffle fanatic, and with those parameters you could build an awesome OB sub. Flat baffle, U-frame or H-frame could all work. OB is not the deepest or loudest option, but has the best sound quality in my opinion. You can see one that I built for example: http://natursound.com/boom.html
Infinite baffle could also work, if you wanted to build a faux wall.
Alternatively, you could try something like the Rat Sounds super sub: a tube in a box with the four corners acting as ports. This is like a hybrid of a transmission line / band pass.
Others will probably have better suggestions.
I never really thought about an open baffle design because I always thought that I would be missing some of the low end.
Your speakers look great by the way! What kind of response do you get below the mid 30hz region?
The idea of an bandpass or a transmission line might also work very well but I don‘t have that much experience with these specific designs.
Thanks for your response!sealed with a linkwitz transform
That was one of my first thoughts as well. With the sealed enclosure I would be saving myself much space and it‘s the easiest to build/design.
Might be the best way to go for me but I didn‘t like the thought of having to push the speaker so much because of an inefficient box design.
I use the Colossus 24 in a Ripole subwoofer
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/21-in-a-ripole-subwoofer.377299/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...range-planars-be-used-in-a-line-array.380788/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/21-in-a-ripole-subwoofer.377299/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...range-planars-be-used-in-a-line-array.380788/
Thank you! Regarding my OB subwoofer: Listening to sine wave sweeps, I can barely hear 30hz and cannot hear anything below that. It does have a gentle rolloff starting around 60hz that is very natural sounding. With music, especially kick drum and acoustic bass, I find they sound incredibly tight, effortless and real. Zero boominess or lag. In my opinion the sub has enough thump for EDM and modern hits, but you are absolutely right that pretty much any other design will reach lower with flatter FR. Still, I wouldn’t trade it for anything, because, subjectively, it is the best sub I’ve heard. The other surprise benefit of dipole bass is that it is very even… it seems to be less affected by room modes than other designs. A downside though is that it is very inefficient, as most sound energy gets cancelled by the back wave. This also can mean scary-looking excursion that not all drivers can handle. But a 24” behemoth should be fine.I never really thought about an open baffle design because I always thought that I would be missing some of the low end.
Your speakers look great by the way! What kind of response do you get below the mid 30hz region?
I think an H-frame might be a good compromise going a bit lower than a flat baffle, but still having most of the OB goodness.
Of course, my OB subwoofer recommendations are non-conventional. The other suggestions people have made are all very good!
I just sold 2 Colossus, made for Turbosound.
Closed boxes, well braced plywood, 550 liters.
I think it's the deepest bass I've heard ever. You really don't notice how much air they are moving when playing normal volume until you get outside and the whole house is ratteling.
/Figge
Closed boxes, well braced plywood, 550 liters.
I think it's the deepest bass I've heard ever. You really don't notice how much air they are moving when playing normal volume until you get outside and the whole house is ratteling.
/Figge
Thanks for sharing your gear!I use the Colossus 24 in a Ripole subwoofer
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/21-in-a-ripole-subwoofer.377299/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...range-planars-be-used-in-a-line-array.380788/
It looks like it might be the perfect solution for me because of it‘s small appearance in comparison to other designs.
Do you have any advice on the perfect distance to the rear wall?
I guess I‘ll be trying out some variations including the ripol and the OB design with some leftover sheet.
I‘ll keep you updated 😉
It requires a distance of more than 50 cm from the rear wall.
The walls of my Ripol are not rigid enough, this causes a peak of distortion around 100 Hz. The horizontal position corrects the problem. This position also seems to improve the coupling with the part. In my system, I use a DSP to correct the speakers.
The walls of my Ripol are not rigid enough, this causes a peak of distortion around 100 Hz. The horizontal position corrects the problem. This position also seems to improve the coupling with the part. In my system, I use a DSP to correct the speakers.
I wood love to find 2 or even four of these drivers to play around with. Massive enclosures needed though 😀
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