Trichloroethylene got difficult to find here.
Isopropyl alcohol can damage Poly carbonate, do not use on CDs / DVDs. and like above, a tooth brush is adequate.
It is volatile, inflammable, bear that in mind.
If you wish, try epoxy or car paint thinner, the latter is Methylene Dichloride, do not use in a closed space. Epoxy thinner is similar.
Ordinary thinner for enamel paint is Mineral Turpentine Oil here, , and these thinners can take off the printing on boards, be very sparing in use.
Benzene and Naptha are also in the using a sledge hammer to kill an ant category. Not to be used indiscriminately. Explosively inflammable, gasoline cars are called benzin-motoren in German.
I sometimes pry off excess flux (rosin core) with a watch maker's screw driver, less iso alcohol is needed. Alcohol dissolves rosin core flux, it has to be removed as a fluid or sticky residue.
Isopropyl alcohol can damage Poly carbonate, do not use on CDs / DVDs. and like above, a tooth brush is adequate.
It is volatile, inflammable, bear that in mind.
If you wish, try epoxy or car paint thinner, the latter is Methylene Dichloride, do not use in a closed space. Epoxy thinner is similar.
Ordinary thinner for enamel paint is Mineral Turpentine Oil here, , and these thinners can take off the printing on boards, be very sparing in use.
Benzene and Naptha are also in the using a sledge hammer to kill an ant category. Not to be used indiscriminately. Explosively inflammable, gasoline cars are called benzin-motoren in German.
I sometimes pry off excess flux (rosin core) with a watch maker's screw driver, less iso alcohol is needed. Alcohol dissolves rosin core flux, it has to be removed as a fluid or sticky residue.
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I use MEK extensively at work. Not particularly 'kitchen safe', but good industrially.
I never tried to clean boards as I always assumed the silkscreen or mask would melt off. Is that not the case?
MEK is used for solvent bonding ABS, I would not use it on a PCB.
Unless very very needed, when all else fails etc.
Unless very very needed, when all else fails etc.
dangus, they sell 1007 in China ONLY. I said the seller that it would be interesting worldwide but he was not excited and don't want to sell by aliexpress. However, another similar product from UK is available worldwide Electrolube SWAS.
PS: I just tried IPA 98% to clean my coffeepot, it works too but is crazy slow and I probably should spend 100ml for the entire pot.
PS: I just tried IPA 98% to clean my coffeepot, it works too but is crazy slow and I probably should spend 100ml for the entire pot.
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As I said already: XCY-1007 affordable PCB cleaning water-based liquid, literally no smell that's critical to me cause I work at home. 10 parts of 50-70C hot water for 1 part of XCY-1007($3 for 500mL), 3-5mins in ultrasound, next wash by water, and dry with a hairdryer. A perfect result virtually for free! However, XCY-1007 is available in China only.
UK similar, and perhaps even better stuff is here https://www.macdermidalpha.com/site...07/SWAS-Electronic-Cleaning-EN-05Apr22-TB.pdf
UK similar, and perhaps even better stuff is here https://www.macdermidalpha.com/site...07/SWAS-Electronic-Cleaning-EN-05Apr22-TB.pdf
11.7 pH liquid for use in automatic soldering systems, may need rust inhibitor.
Definitely not for use in the kitchen
Definitely not for use in the kitchen
If you keep the ambient vented and all flames out, I don't see why not. I myself had already done.Kitchen safe? Do we need a title change?
I did miss the comma "How to wash your PCBs in your kitchen, safe..", but the thread name is not a directive-command to use that chemical stuff in the kitchen, it was rather a metaphor. However, I tested 1007 in my kitchen indeed 😉
I used to use commercial board wash to clean off PCBs after soldering, and the main ingredient in that mix was various isomers of hexane. It also did a good job of cleaning off any hint of magic marker from the board.
Again, anyone considering cleaning their PCBs with chlorinated solvents is courting disaster. It's a slow, unpredictable death sentence for electrolytic capacitors on the board, unless you populate the board with caps that are solvent-proof. This is explicitly mentioned by major cap vendors in their literature on care and handling of electrolytics, and the deterioration mechanism is explained in detail.
Here's an example:
https://www.chemi-con.co.jp/en/faq/detail.php?id=29BDJBJ
Here's an example:
https://www.chemi-con.co.jp/en/faq/detail.php?id=29BDJBJ
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I use alcohol too.
But instead of a toothbrush, if you take a acid brush, and cut it down so the bristles are 1/2 to 3/8 inch long, I think it works better.
After brushing, I dab with a paper towel to soak up the dirty alcohol.
I'm also leery of using chemicals with hex in the name, or that I can't pronounce.
But instead of a toothbrush, if you take a acid brush, and cut it down so the bristles are 1/2 to 3/8 inch long, I think it works better.
After brushing, I dab with a paper towel to soak up the dirty alcohol.
I'm also leery of using chemicals with hex in the name, or that I can't pronounce.
You can buy horse hair brushes with short and stiff bristles made for cleaning PCBs. I found one for a few bucks at my local parts pusher. Works great. I get some flux remover made by MG Chemicals at the same place.
I only use flux remover for rework. For the few circuits I build by hand and send to customers I use solder with water-soluble flux. That is easily removed with hot tap water (50-60 ºC).
Tom
I only use flux remover for rework. For the few circuits I build by hand and send to customers I use solder with water-soluble flux. That is easily removed with hot tap water (50-60 ºC).
Tom