You could take your broken one apart to see what went wrong. That may help avoid it in the future? If it’s broken you’ve got nothing to lose…
I got a second-hand Metcal off eBay for £100. Absolutely love it, I wouldn’t go back to normal irons.
I got a second-hand Metcal off eBay for £100. Absolutely love it, I wouldn’t go back to normal irons.
I haven't got that kind of money. I do like the idea of soldering stations and i'm sure they are good but i am thinking of spending something like £100 or so on a really robust iron. Should be able to pick up something decent for that kind of money.
You could try to find a nice used one off eBay— I just had a quick look and there are Metcals and PACEs on there for about your price range. Or even cheaper Weller stations.
Worst case is they break after 2-3 months, but that seems to be par for the course. You’ll then at least know whether you want to continue in that direction or go back to the normal handheld ones.
One other advantage of the station types: they usually have some sort of auto off or low power mode, so if you forget and leave it in overnight it doesn’t just keep burning.
Worst case is they break after 2-3 months, but that seems to be par for the course. You’ll then at least know whether you want to continue in that direction or go back to the normal handheld ones.
One other advantage of the station types: they usually have some sort of auto off or low power mode, so if you forget and leave it in overnight it doesn’t just keep burning.
I hear you!
I have a small Antex 25W iron that seems todo most of what I've asked of it (for normal small joint/non-ground plane) but I was thinking of something that will cope with ground planes or chassis soldering (or soldering copper clad PCB into a box for example but also SMT air would be useful too.
As other suggested, it is very weird that your irons break so soon. Can this be some fault of your mains? Also, is there any chance that you destroy the heating element somehow? For example some people, tap the heating element on a surface (like the edge of a table) to get rid of the excess solder from the tip. Thant's a no-no!
I've been using a hakko fx888 for more than a decade (hundreds of soldering hours) and other than replacing the tips, it works fine.
I would strongly recommend an Antex soldering iron - get a temperature controlled one, either a station, or a standalone iron with the controller built-in the handle. I've been using them personally, and professionally, for decades, excellent irons - great reliability, and the bits last for years and years.
I agree with people saying the hakko fx888 is great and reliable. But have you tried the irons with integrated heating elements in the tips.
Try something like the Hakko FX951 (or clones) if you haven't already. Also the opinion that 25W is enough is not the complete truth. A 25W iron will have to be set alot higher like 375 to 400 degC + to solder large diodes etc. and with a much longer contact time to build up enough heat.
The modern irons are a step above the rest., if you have tried one and disagree I accept that, but if you haven't then I would advise you try one for yourself.
Try something like the Hakko FX951 (or clones) if you haven't already. Also the opinion that 25W is enough is not the complete truth. A 25W iron will have to be set alot higher like 375 to 400 degC + to solder large diodes etc. and with a much longer contact time to build up enough heat.
The modern irons are a step above the rest., if you have tried one and disagree I accept that, but if you haven't then I would advise you try one for yourself.
Attachments
I'm not sure Quick 303D is a copy of some more famous brand or an original iron but I saw that in multiple Chinese factories.
I use that 15 years as well: reliable, fast induction tip with a temperature sensor on the top of it. One type of Quick tips can solder 0603(for 0402 I prefer another tip yet) and a heavy transformer 20x1mm of copper. The price is around $200 as I remember.
I use that 15 years as well: reliable, fast induction tip with a temperature sensor on the top of it. One type of Quick tips can solder 0603(for 0402 I prefer another tip yet) and a heavy transformer 20x1mm of copper. The price is around $200 as I remember.
The Weller TCP and WTCP are rock solid. The one I bought in the late 1980s still works, is still on its original tip, and it's seen a lot of use. These days I use a METCAL MX-500. The in-tip heater is nice. I bought one for dimes on the dollar in the 2008-09 downturn.
The TCP/WTCP run on 24 V. I saved quite a bit by buying the hand piece as a spare part and building my own power supply for it.
The best way to ensure a long life for a long-life tip is to keep it tinned and to turn off the soldering iron when you don't use it for a period of time. I'd consider putting a 30-minute or 60-minute wind-up timer on it. You can find such timers at your local home improvement box store.
Tom
+1 for temperature controlled soldering irons, by the way. The temperature does not need to be variable. For example both the Weller TCP/WTCP and METCAL MX-500 are temperature controlled but not variable. You change the temperature by changing the tip.
I use 700 ºF (380 ºC) for leaded solder and 800 ºF (425 ºC) for lead-free.
For stubborn joints, such as direct connections to ground planes, use a larger tip - not a hotter one. You want higher thermal mass, not temperature.
Tom
I use 700 ºF (380 ºC) for leaded solder and 800 ºF (425 ºC) for lead-free.
For stubborn joints, such as direct connections to ground planes, use a larger tip - not a hotter one. You want higher thermal mass, not temperature.
Tom
My setup is going on 10 years. When we do a production of my automotive circuits it runs 8+ hours a day.
Its abused. At most I land up replacing the T12 rod. I mean I have replaced one rod in 10 years. More like I wanted a larger tip so I got it.
This is backo T12 setup from China. It was so so good that I ordered a backup. Cant imagine my life without this puppy.
The problem I see your having is what I used to have with my old dumb setups.
Ever since I switched to this T12 setup I have had zero issues.
Features you want to look for
1. It plugs into the mains.
2. It allows you to set the temp
3. It allows you to set a boost temp.
4. It allows you to set a sleep timer. (i.e. if you dont touch the machine for X minutes it goes to sleep. And rests at 40c. The second you touch it it ramps up to operating temps in a few seconds. ).
5. The firmware should be upgradeable.
90% of all failures can be traced to user error.
1. They leave it on at high temp for hours. This oxidises any tip and ruins it.
2. They dont maintain their tips.
My first unit was
Its abused. At most I land up replacing the T12 rod. I mean I have replaced one rod in 10 years. More like I wanted a larger tip so I got it.
This is backo T12 setup from China. It was so so good that I ordered a backup. Cant imagine my life without this puppy.
The problem I see your having is what I used to have with my old dumb setups.
Ever since I switched to this T12 setup I have had zero issues.
Features you want to look for
1. It plugs into the mains.
2. It allows you to set the temp
3. It allows you to set a boost temp.
4. It allows you to set a sleep timer. (i.e. if you dont touch the machine for X minutes it goes to sleep. And rests at 40c. The second you touch it it ramps up to operating temps in a few seconds. ).
5. The firmware should be upgradeable.
90% of all failures can be traced to user error.
1. They leave it on at high temp for hours. This oxidises any tip and ruins it.
2. They dont maintain their tips.
My first unit was
- BAKON 950D 75W Electric Soldering Iron Temperature Adjustable Portable Digital Soldering Station Welding Tools T12.
My 2nd was
KSGER STM32 V3.1S T12 Soldering Station OLED
Soldron, India.
A few dollars.
Or Chinese with ceramic tips, they don't get eaten up (copy of Western model).
A few dollars.
Or Chinese with ceramic tips, they don't get eaten up (copy of Western model).
I can easily recommend the Aixun T3A (or T3B for finer work). Around 100 USD. Since I got one my Metcal gets very little use.
I'm using an Antex TC50 temperature controlled iron, but I built my own controller, mainly for interest but also reduced the cost (should be well within your budget, details here if you're interested, there's even a PCB for it now).
On ebay, what do you think?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23477837...BlNXLHszTt8b++BtZsA8CaDoE=|tkp:Bk9SR-SW49GOYQ
eBay is a pain for stuff like this, since you’re almost guaranteed to be sniped at the last minute. They’re around £120 brand new.
If you want to try and get it cheaper, put in a max bid and maybe you get lucky, but I’ve had my hopes dashed way too many times on eBay auctions that I have a policy of never depending on it for anything I actually need.
If you want to try and get it cheaper, put in a max bid and maybe you get lucky, but I’ve had my hopes dashed way too many times on eBay auctions that I have a policy of never depending on it for anything I actually need.