Salas SSLV1.3 UltraBiB shunt regulator

An update pn my MUTEC project in case anyone has the same idea of using Ultra Bib. I am using a 200 Ah battery to power the reg/MUTEC - along with an inverter which powers my computer power supply.

Well, I was not able to get Ultra Bib to work - I am sure due to my negligence. I have not given up.

I had a Chinese regulator board using the LT1963 rated for 1.5 amps and thought I would give that a try. I had assumed more power being required. Well, it worked just fine and the small heatsink does not get more than warm.

I measured the current going to the regulator as 600 mA. Nowhere close to what I thought it would be. With its smps power supply MUTEC says it used 10 watts of power. I was thinking 2 amps would be needed. Shows what I know ...

So now I have a much better idea of what to specify for R1! And a surety that it will work just fine.

My new questions:
I have a bunch of 2SK170s in the low and midrange IDSS categories. Will either of these be good substitutes for the PF5102?

I can measure them and use the same advice you gave in that post in the 1500's if they can work.

Always a learning process.

Take care,
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Hi, K170 has DGS pinout when PF5102 has DSG. That difference becomes irrelevant if R4, R7, R8 positions will be jumpers. K170 will work at IDSS in this case. A much more economic solution is J113 which is DSG and in production. Can be degenerated to low Id at will with those resistors in-place. See the link about its IDSS range and proper resistor values near the bottom of post#1. 512-J113 is its Mouser number costing less than half a Dollar each.
 
I did it again - starting with the MUTEC off and then attaching a lead. Start up is very controlled - very slow - no peak at all to speak of. For a second or two it rose to 670 mA and then settled to 640 mA to idle. When music is playing it reads 600 mA. I would have thought more power would be consumed while playing music.

I figure with the battery not being as variable as an AC powered supply - would 160 mA be enough extra or should I go for 200 mA? The battery being incapable of outputting more than 13.5 volts at full charge and less as time goes by.

I leave the thing on at all times to keep the clock warm so the start up will occur only if something has to be changed. So 640 mA will be required more hours of the day than 600 mA.

Would 0.75 Ohms be sufficient for R1? Would you recommend more or less?

THANKS, yet, again.

Take care,
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
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Generally 100mA extra is enough for this reg to work in good spec. So 0.75Ω should be more than good. Gives 770mA even if R1 will have 0.58V in case of reference voltage tolerance in practice. 770-670=110mA worst case extra. 0.82Ω would also cover for start-up pull and leave ~100mA extra while music playing. When idle, still covered. In idle phase we just want not to current limit while not caring about better Zo spec etc.
 
I tested a +5volt ultrabib today. But I managed to put in the rectifying diodes the wrong way. So the cirquit did see -5 to -10volts for a second or two, I did the correction and i got 4,7volts out leds are lighting and I can see they light up more when I adjust pot. The output do not change with potentiometer turn. Any suggestions where to start digging?
 
Hey, it's a start. :)

Salas, a few questions.

I found I don't have IRF9530 but have IRF9630.
Can I use it or beter go to shop for IRF9530?

Can I use only trimmer to find value for exact fixed voltage and then solder same value to VRR with trimmer excluded?
But now that I think of it my transformer is not final and Pos Neg voltage could drift when I change it.
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Hi, IRF630 for M2 positive side & IRF9630 for M2 negative side should work well

Of course you can use a fixed resistor for output voltage setting instead of trimmer when you will feel confident the build is final.
In any case, drift due to different transformer should not be much. Comes from Q2's Vbe that can change a little but not greatly.