WARNING: About the DUST!

My main concern would be fracturing the sheet trying to remove it. I've seen a few that were just screwed in place. But if proper procedure is followed they can be removed safely and the post removal lacquer is a good idea.
The first thing to do is to contain the particles before disturbing the whole thing.
a spray or layer of a sealer works well.
And if glued down, a spatula or wide blade putty knife is effective in carefully slicing the sheet from the wood surface.
Usually, the old glue isn't too stubborn to fight with.
A mask, eye protection, gloves, are mandatory, as is doing it in the outdoors.
You bag the nasty stuff up and best to take it to a proper facility for disposal.

As for the Cadmuim dust....
That Thorens TD 124 will require dampening of the motor shells/bearings to keep airborn dust down.
I've also got to drill out the brass rivets to do a proper job of servicing, then I use appropriate screws/nuts to replace them.
And there are traces under the chassis that show some powdering too.
Once I'm finished, she'll be back in action again and spinning pretty tunes.
I'll post pics later on.
 
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The danger with asbestos is not in handling it per se. It's the inhalation of it's dust that makes it carcinogenic for the most part. The processed sheets that were used in the past have a relatively negligible risk to health. It was a common tape seal around duct work joints applied after soaking to form a tight intimate seal. It used to be used in drywall in a fibrous form which did present a significant risk during it's installation. The really dangerous form however which I believe is still being used is a special asbestos rope seal used around the conduit of elevator communications cable in high rise structures where it passes through one concrete floor to the next. A dark grey/black furry thing that looks as though it had hair electrostatically standing on end. I remember being told to not even go near it as the technician gently set it in place around the conduit.
 
To update things....
That once crusty Thorens E50 motor is now back together, spotless clean and re-lubricated, ready to be reinstalled back in the TD124 again later tonight.
Motor runs silently, smooth as silk, as it should do.
And for those critical nitpickers, its spin-down time is over 10 seconds with no pulley.
 
Many years ago our auto-shop had an accidental release of large quantities of Phosgene gas...yep, the very same one used in WW1 ....In our 12+ "stalls" in this rather large shop, we had those in-floor vacuum systems with the large rubber hoses to evacuate fumes from the exhausts. One Mr. Gale Davis, our used car guy, didn't attach the hose to the in-floor trap-door. So Gale was trying to clean out a Carburetor with what he thought was plain old carb-cleaner...he was using aerosol brake cleaner while revving the engine ...the dense light colored foggy stuff pouring out the hose had everybody gagging trying to catch our breath, evacuating the whole shop in seconds.
I was outside when it happened & always curious me performed an experiment on myself. I grabbed a can of the stuff & sprayed onto the shop floor a dinner plate sized pool of the stuff, & then lit it with a lighter...average looking flames I thought...nothing like the super cool looking nitro-methane when flaming away. So, for a better dosage of whatever this stuff was cranking out, I stood over the flames to inhale the stuff...
For those of us who have had "the wind knocked out of you" it was oddly familiar, it was almost like a light-switch had turned off your ability to breath, the rising & falling of ones chest...the mechanics of the ability to breath.
There still are substances out there that are very very toxic, that can be released under specific circumstances. It was later that I read the fine print on the can of brake-cleaner, something about combustion of this product can create Phosgene gas ??




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
 
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Many years ago our auto-shop had an accidental release of large quantities of Phosgene gas...yep, the very same one used in WW1 ....In our 12+ "stalls" in this rather large shop, we had those in-floor vacuum systems with the large rubber hoses to evacuate fumes from the exhausts. One Mr. Gale Davis, our used car guy, didn't attach the hose to the in-floor trap-door. So Gale was trying to clean out a Carburetor with what he thought was plain old carb-cleaner...he was using aerosol brake cleaner while revving the engine ...the dense light colored foggy stuff pouring out the hose had everybody gagging trying to catch our breath, evacuating the whole shop in seconds.
I was outside when it happened & always curious me performed an experiment on myself. I grabbed a can of the stuff & sprayed onto the shop floor a dinner plate sized pool of the stuff, & then lit it with a lighter...average looking flames I thought...nothing like the super cool looking nitro-methane when flaming away. So, for a better dosage of whatever this stuff was cranking out, I stood over the flames to inhale the stuff...
For those of us who have had "the wind knocked out of you" it was oddly familiar, it was almost like a light-switch had turned off your ability to breath, the rising & falling of ones chest...the mechanics of the ability to breath.
There still are substances out there that are very very toxic, that can be released under specific circumstances. It was later that I read the fine print on the can of brake-cleaner, something about combustion of this product can create Phosgene gas ??




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
Yes, that was a foolish experiment on your part. You're lucky to be alive to tell about it. Many mechanics have been killed welding on metals cleaned with it. It's the brake clean containing chlorine that produces phosgene on combustion. Very deadly. It can be had with or without chlorine. If you do a brake job in your driveway and clean your brake parts on a grassy area with chlorinated brake clean you'll notice it kills the grass or anything living it falls onto and nothing will grow there for a long time. So it's deadly even when you don't burn it. (but it's more effective at removing contaminates than the non chlorinated type 🙂 )
 
The "chorinated" brake clean they sell here isn't flammable... It's also crap IMHO.
Notice there's no flame warning and the "non-flammable" in the list of features...
1662164508689.png

Unlike the one I use:
1662164537069.png
 
There was also another "chemical accident" that occurred in our shop...We would have problems with stagnant water inside AC evaporators. As many know, AC systems "extract" water out of the air inside closed spaces inside our cars...if the system is designed wrong & water is not free to drain away completely off those finely pitched radiators supplying cold air, any stagnant water can start growing mold...the stinky AC syndrome.
We has an aerosol product the vendors were hawking to "clean away all the mold & the musty smell that went with it....Well, that's all well & good, but disassembling the entire dash just to get to the evaporator, scrubbing the evaporator, new O-rings, discharging & refilling the system was prohibitively expensive & time consuming...So my service advisor said, just spray the stuff up the vents at the evaporator...I had a clear sight-line to the bulk of the finning on the evaporator. Although the can read as disassembling the car to get to the evaporator by itself, scrubbing it in a bucket, etc, etc....it also said something like can irritate the upper respiratory system. So I informed the service advisor, don't turn on the blower until it's dry, like tomorrow? So john Q. Public hops in his car minutes later & twists the blower dial full blast & got sprayed with "respiratory irritant"...of course the burning sensation had the customer dash to the local hospital & a lawsuit for a chronic condition ensued.
Never had so many problems with "miracle" products like this.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
 
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The "chorinated" brake clean they sell here isn't flammable... It's also crap IMHO.
Notice there's no flame warning and the "non-flammable" in the list of features...
View attachment 1087012
Unlike the one I use:
View attachment 1087013
It doesn't have to actually burn, just super heat. Just heating up steel with a torch after cleaning it will produce phosgene.
 
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No more cadmium dust or dried-up lube on this tank of a turntable now!
She looks like brand new again, performs absolutely fantastic, and that Grado cartridge-tonearm reveals flawless tracking and nuances from my test records.
Some minor but important modifications were done, particularly in the tonearm wiring - no hum, no noise, just music.
And the Swiss craftmanship of this machine is utterly amazing.

Listen, I've been a tech for 40+ years, and by now I'm hard-pressed to be amazed, much less impressed by the equipment I've serviced and restored.
But this 35 pound beast!...... floored me.

TD124 on bench done.JPG
 
There still are substances out there that are very very toxic, that can be released under specific circumstances. It was later that I read the fine print on the can of brake-cleaner, something about combustion of this product can create Phosgene gas ??
In my younger days I used engine vacuum to evacuate a newly repaired auto air conditioning system. That greenish cloud that comes out of the tailpipe when you do this is Phosgene gas. That was in the days when you could buy R-12 refrigerant at Walmart.
 
Ha! 🙂
the tonearm is best! (Even if not 🇨🇭)
That Grado (made in the USA) tonearm from 1964 is pretty amazing, as is the Grado cartridge on it.
Originally sold for $67.50, they're now selling for up to $500 to $800 around the 'net.

Interesting design, gun stock walnut with simple aluminum trim, the horizontal movement is by a pointed pin that looks like a highly polished nail sticking up.
Vertical movement is through a typical set of needle/cup bearings in a gimble.
Its wiring is hair-thin, bundled in a braided shield giving no hinderance to movement.
Cartridge carrier is easily removable and connects through a set of quality gold connectors.
VTA and stylus pressure are adjustable and precise.
No anti-skating unfortunately, but that cartridge tracking at 1.8 grams sounds absolutely fantastic.
For something from the early 1960's, it was ahead of its time.
 
I suppose you automotive guys are familiar with something called hexevalant chrome poisoning. When you weld or grind stainless steel and other chrome containing metal alloys, it can be released. Aside from the dust, it can vaporize, so an N95 respirator won't fully protect you. It also can can be released from torching off steel parts containing chrome, including sheet metal, spring steel, nuts and bolts. Zinc poisoning is another big one from cutting and welding galvanized metals. Aluminum is another one too. All neurotoxins, as well as bad for liver, kidneys and bone marrow.

I have life long neurological issues from hexevalent chrome poisoning. Its no fun being in pain constantly and nursing a failing liver. The people who say they are still alive after doing foolish things with these substances are lucky to have skated by with their health. I wasn't so lucky and it wasn't common knowledge that many of these substances were bad for you to this extent, back when I worked with them. That's why I pass the word whenever I can.