I now have a 60 L volume enclosure and would like to install two 12 inch woofers there to get down to 10 Hz. The normally calculated volume would now be too small for this, how far can DSP help me? Someone I spoke to said he would pick two 10" woofers. Do you agree or would you stick with two 12" woofers?
Hi,
It depend of your woofer.
60l for 2x12" ( sealed) is on the limit regarding box volume but... if you look at car audio subwoofer ( entry level) you might find some that would accept to play low ( mid 20) at reasonable spl ( around 105dbspl at 1m). But the amp needed will be power hungry ( 600/800w) and Linkwitz transform mandatory ( so dsp).
Dayton might have some Rss 312 UM12 which allow that too.
It depend of your woofer.
60l for 2x12" ( sealed) is on the limit regarding box volume but... if you look at car audio subwoofer ( entry level) you might find some that would accept to play low ( mid 20) at reasonable spl ( around 105dbspl at 1m). But the amp needed will be power hungry ( 600/800w) and Linkwitz transform mandatory ( so dsp).
Dayton might have some Rss 312 UM12 which allow that too.
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10 Hz will be near to impossible...why do you think you need to go that low when there's nothing useful down there?
Two 12" drivers at 10 Hz are going to run into X max issues at anything more than a moderate listening level...it's not a realistic goal, you need a LOT more total cone area than two twelves have.
Mike
Two 12" drivers at 10 Hz are going to run into X max issues at anything more than a moderate listening level...it's not a realistic goal, you need a LOT more total cone area than two twelves have.
Mike
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high xmax drivers, DSP and a big amp might get you somewhere. A more reasonable target would be 110dB@30Hz:
as this aligns with the equal loudness contour for 80phon so would be a useful output level for music. This should be achivable with two 15mm xmax, 12" drivers, two Alpine R2-W12D4 should do it.
as this aligns with the equal loudness contour for 80phon so would be a useful output level for music. This should be achivable with two 15mm xmax, 12" drivers, two Alpine R2-W12D4 should do it.
yes you want to maximize the drivers surface area and excursion capability within the constraint the the power input the to the box does not become excessive to hit the maximum excursion of the drivers (IE you start burning the voice coils just overcoming the air spring of the box). For 60L this is achieved with two 12" drivers. What amp are you planning to use? ideally you want something capable of around 3000W into 4ohms.
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Mike, thanx for beating me to that.
But if you have 2 woofers per enclosure do take advantage of push-push loading.
dave
1 - There's no replacement for displacement
2 - Do you have any measurement gear?
You'll need a pretty serious amp, because small sealed boxes try to restrict cone movement, but what you're looking for is entirely possible.
FWIW, here's my in-room response with 4x 8" midbass drivers, sharing about 60L:
I EQ the 40Hz mountain down, leaving me essentially flat to 10Hz. ie, I didn't need any boost at all.
Chris
To finish my previous post (I was in a rush), I'd say that room acoustics play a huge part here. I'm fortunate to have a very "helpful" room, which makes it easy to get plenty of LF extension.
In an outdoor area, large open-plan space, or a room with thin walls, the acoustics will be less beneficial and more output will be needed.
Chris
In an outdoor area, large open-plan space, or a room with thin walls, the acoustics will be less beneficial and more output will be needed.
Chris
if this were the high end of the range we would be talking about magic sparkle and how a lower roll off kills the sounds only your dog can hear. Why does the low end never get the ‘you can’t hear it but it adds to the sound’ arguments made about extending frequency above 16k? I believe to be Thx certified you need to reach 15Hz, 10 is just a few shakes away. An organ goes into the 20s.
Because 10Hz in a realistic domestic setting is a rumbling mess that'll **** off the neighbours more than add useful musical content.
Personal view is that high sensitivity at 30Hz is far more fun than hitting 10Hz at lower sensitivity, if that's the trade off to be made. 20Hz is a reasonable target but personally I can't ever see myself doing a project that goes below that.
Sorry for my highly subjective post btw, couldn't resist ha.
Personal view is that high sensitivity at 30Hz is far more fun than hitting 10Hz at lower sensitivity, if that's the trade off to be made. 20Hz is a reasonable target but personally I can't ever see myself doing a project that goes below that.
Sorry for my highly subjective post btw, couldn't resist ha.