Bought today. Pristine condition/function , just didn't have a cartridge or stylus.
No idea if there is a 3rd party/new etc cart that will fit it but I'm totally open to that too. Just no idea where to source them.
Any info much appreciated!
Thank y'all so much
No idea if there is a 3rd party/new etc cart that will fit it but I'm totally open to that too. Just no idea where to source them.
Any info much appreciated!
Thank y'all so much
Some extra information will be helpful: Model BSR AA50/5D4 Record Changer; Cartridge EPC35TTC; Stylus EPS13TT (Saphire).
The original cartridge is a ceramic type. Does your amplifier have an input for a ceramic cartridge, or just for a magnetic one?
The original cartridge is a ceramic type. Does your amplifier have an input for a ceramic cartridge, or just for a magnetic one?
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I don't know your location, but here's a BSR ceramic cartridge which will fit the single screw cartridge fixing of your pickup arm:
https://www.gettheneedle.co.uk/bsr-sc11m-ceramic-cartridge-with-lp/33/45-only-stylus.html
https://www.gettheneedle.co.uk/bsr-sc11m-ceramic-cartridge-with-lp/33/45-only-stylus.html
Amp has both sir, thank you. Ordered. Only issue I have now is that I removed the platter and cycling gear (to remove the hardened grease that is so common with these things, apparently! And to re-lube) and I'm having some difficulty getting the cycling gear back on the spindle so I can put the retention clip on. It's not wanting to go by hand.
@Galu
Thank you sir! Got the platter/gear seating thing sorted, thanks to y'all's help, and just noticed this sporadic/non existent rotation of the idler wheel(?) It seems to be somewhat affected by the switch , if I hold the switch in a certain position it'll try to spin.
Not sure what is causing this. Thank you for your time/patience , sir.
pt. 1
pt. 2
If the stepped motor pulley is spinning steadily, then the idler wheel may simply be slipping on the rotating pulley.
As a matter of course, you should clean the stepped motor pulley and the driven surface of the idler wheel with isopropyl alcohol. Clean also the inner rim of the platter which is driven by the idler wheel.
If the driven surface of the idler wheel is very shiny, you may have to roughen it up with some fine emery paper.
Let me know how you get on with that.
As a matter of course, you should clean the stepped motor pulley and the driven surface of the idler wheel with isopropyl alcohol. Clean also the inner rim of the platter which is driven by the idler wheel.
If the driven surface of the idler wheel is very shiny, you may have to roughen it up with some fine emery paper.
Let me know how you get on with that.
Oh, and apply a drop of thin sewing machine oil on the idler wheel spindle and the top motor bearing.
I run the oil down a screwdriver blade into the motor bearing to guide it in and avoid getting oil on the working surfaces.
EDIT: Don't mess with the spring tension, but do check that the idler wheel is riding in the centre of the various 'speed steps' of the motor pulley - it appears to be doing so, but it's hard for me to be sure given the camera angle.
I run the oil down a screwdriver blade into the motor bearing to guide it in and avoid getting oil on the working surfaces.
EDIT: Don't mess with the spring tension, but do check that the idler wheel is riding in the centre of the various 'speed steps' of the motor pulley - it appears to be doing so, but it's hard for me to be sure given the camera angle.
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The service manual for that model is downloadable here and should prove to be of great help:
https://elektrotanya.com/bsr_models_aa50_turntable.pdf/download.html
https://elektrotanya.com/bsr_models_aa50_turntable.pdf/download.html
Yessir, I appreciate you! Im a bit outta my depth so I've dropped off at a respected tech/sparky for service! Thanks so much again sir!
The idler wheel needs the turntable platter in place in order for it to place enough pressure against the motor shaft.
So of course it won't spin right unloaded and free.
Too many people think shortening the spring is a FIX.
It's not.
The root cause is dirt, binding of the idler swing arm, and hardened rubber.
I'll be contradictory by saying that the idler wheel of my Garrard SP25 MkII runs smoothly on the motor pulley when the platter is removed - unlike the idler wheel in question.
It's a shame that the OP has given up on a diy solution. He would have learned much by examining how this mechanical system of gears, levers and pulleys actually works.
In all the idler-type turntables I've seen, the idler wheel and it's swing arm uses the spring to pull it into a "pinching effect" for traction between the motor pulley and the platter rim.
My statement still stands. I serviced my Garrard SP25 MkII recently and worked with platter off while adjusting the idler wheel height.
Throughout, I was able to observe the idler wheel rotating smoothly and securely as it was being driven by the motor pulley.
The mechanical/spring action in my turntable definitely holds the idler wheel firmly against the motor pulley when the platter is off.
Now, wiseoldtech, I know you will say you have serviced thousands of idler wheel turntables, but you haven't serviced mine. 😉
Throughout, I was able to observe the idler wheel rotating smoothly and securely as it was being driven by the motor pulley.
The mechanical/spring action in my turntable definitely holds the idler wheel firmly against the motor pulley when the platter is off.
Now, wiseoldtech, I know you will say you have serviced thousands of idler wheel turntables, but you haven't serviced mine. 😉
Galu, it all depends on the amount of spring tension and its linkage underneath whether or not the idler spins when ON. - withOUT a platter in place
The fact is, each machine has its own tolerences, being mass produced.
And also a fact is that the design is ulimately in positive friction engagement when driving the platter rim.
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I had a beater TT with idler wheel once and simply couldn't ever get the thing to work, it just slipped against the platter so I gave it back to the originator. I sympathize with anybody trying to get these things working !
It's not that difficult if you can diagnose and rectify the common symptoms.
After decades of doing them, I can do them blindfolded.
My neighbors Thorens TD 124 is on the bench now, just cleaned any corrosion from the mechs, and shocked me that it's got a Grado Signature Laboratory walnut tonearm mounted on it.
It's a hybrid belt and idler system of extremely high Swiss quality.
The Grado arm alone seems to be going for $500 to $800 these days!