IRS2092 Mono board
Dual 60v power supply 600w
Hi all, I am setting out to assemble an active speaker HT system. I have shortlisted this board and power supply that I have linked above due to price vs claimed performance. I am purchasing 5 of these for full range channels as well as the 500w x 2 amp in the 1kw thread for the active sub duties
I only need around 150wrms in 4 ohms from this board and I would like to run a lower voltage power supply, but the minimum requirement is dual 58v. Would a dual 48v power supply turn this board on, and what power would it likely produce?
I also want to run a tube preamp type stage before the input of this board so that the audio signal coming to the active speaker picks up tube flavour and not sure whether to fit a stereo preamp board with channel one feeding into channel two via a pot or to instead build a mono channel from a tube headphone amp and use the output from the output transformer to feed the class D board input. I am not sure which approach would best for tube flavouring and would appreciate some help with this. I'll start a thread in tubes section about this
Lastly. I would like to flatten the frequency response of each active speaker in its room location and then impose a saved eq curve on them. Can I use DSP for this? Where do I start? I am confused about implementing a single channel DSP. Or do I have no options there and have to build passive speakers and a 5 channel HT power amp and fit a DSP board to that?
Please help with this, I have been saving up for a while for this project and finally purchasing the bigger ticket items. I would like to buy the supporting parts to before the saving are used up elsewhere
Thanks and regards
Randy
Dual 60v power supply 600w
Hi all, I am setting out to assemble an active speaker HT system. I have shortlisted this board and power supply that I have linked above due to price vs claimed performance. I am purchasing 5 of these for full range channels as well as the 500w x 2 amp in the 1kw thread for the active sub duties
I only need around 150wrms in 4 ohms from this board and I would like to run a lower voltage power supply, but the minimum requirement is dual 58v. Would a dual 48v power supply turn this board on, and what power would it likely produce?
I also want to run a tube preamp type stage before the input of this board so that the audio signal coming to the active speaker picks up tube flavour and not sure whether to fit a stereo preamp board with channel one feeding into channel two via a pot or to instead build a mono channel from a tube headphone amp and use the output from the output transformer to feed the class D board input. I am not sure which approach would best for tube flavouring and would appreciate some help with this. I'll start a thread in tubes section about this
Lastly. I would like to flatten the frequency response of each active speaker in its room location and then impose a saved eq curve on them. Can I use DSP for this? Where do I start? I am confused about implementing a single channel DSP. Or do I have no options there and have to build passive speakers and a 5 channel HT power amp and fit a DSP board to that?
Please help with this, I have been saving up for a while for this project and finally purchasing the bigger ticket items. I would like to buy the supporting parts to before the saving are used up elsewhere
Thanks and regards
Randy
I have just ordered 5 of these boards, I think it was a bargain at that combination of shipping and unit qty as it works out to AUD $14 per board including shipping. This is more than half of what that would cost from other vendors pricing structure
I hope to receive some help with picking a power supply voltage for this thanks
I hope to receive some help with picking a power supply voltage for this thanks
Irs2092s is a very good amplifier. There are few rivals in power and performance.
But it can also produce poor products. Different PCBs have different MOSFETs. Including external power supply equipment. Will have a great impact.
I personally recommend using irfi4019h MOSFET.
Use DC + - 50V voltage.
There are many 500W and 800W class D amplifiers on the network.
These things are totally ignored. They are all irresponsible products.
But it can also produce poor products. Different PCBs have different MOSFETs. Including external power supply equipment. Will have a great impact.
I personally recommend using irfi4019h MOSFET.
Use DC + - 50V voltage.
There are many 500W and 800W class D amplifiers on the network.
These things are totally ignored. They are all irresponsible products.
I have 5 boards coming in. I only need a clean 100-150w from each board so I thot to experiment, I ordered a +/- 36v 500w LLC SMPS to test a pair of boards with
The seller rated the board as dual 58 to 70v. I haven't been able to determine if my choice of low voltage will even turn the board on, so will try and see. I also will try to set up for power measurement
The seller rated the board as dual 58 to 70v. I haven't been able to determine if my choice of low voltage will even turn the board on, so will try and see. I also will try to set up for power measurement
I don't know what you said.
But I do not recommend using industrial MOSFETs. Such as 20nxx series MOSFETs.
Amp is not an induction cooker. We need good quality signals, superior to high power.
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I looked at your linked irs2092 product.
I know something about this Chinese product.
It has three problems.
1 is not an authentic irs2092 chip.
2: An inexpensive industrial MOSFET is used. The FET dedicated to class D is not used. The distortion is relatively large.
3. Using low-cost inductors, the performance of red ring inductors is worse than that of Sagami shielded inductors.
But the price is really cheap. It doesn't matter if you don't have too high requirements.
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Induction cookers use IGBTs, not MOSFETs.
@Randy Bassinga normally the boards from online sellers have undervoltage lockout and won't work at such low voltages as +/-36V. However getting them to run at lower voltage is normally just a matter of swapping out a zener diode or two in the UV protection circuitry.
@Randy Bassinga normally the boards from online sellers have undervoltage lockout and won't work at such low voltages as +/-36V. However getting them to run at lower voltage is normally just a matter of swapping out a zener diode or two in the UV protection circuitry.
You're right. The IGBT has a larger current. Higher power.
But will it sound good when used in a power amplifier.
That's what I mean.
I really wish that you had said this when I was asking for help in choosing a board earlier in the thread. Anyway, a bit late now. I do have the option for a return and refund. I have seen some promising reviews on this board, so I am having difficulty in reconciling your statements on this board with the positive observations others are making on youtube
I will give the low voltage a go and if seems too many issues then will order a 60v supply. I can still make use of the 36v one with another board as I am interested in trialling a TDA8954TH board too
I'll ask about having this board worked on by my local phone repairer. She seems quite competent with SMD devices. My friend has a camera and screen setup for magnifying too and I have a pen soldering iron. I will try your suggestion before giving up on the 36v supply
Anyway, my process so far has been a jumble of ideas and thots. I am clearer now on the results that I am after and the approach to take. Let's scrap all the above, I'll try to organise my approach again
Thanks to all for contributing, and I hope I can look towards you folks for future interaction
Randy
The effect of irs2092s + irfi4019 is definitely much better than that of tda8954.
But the same chip. There are many products with different effects.
If you already have. Use it directly. After all, it is not expensive.
In fact, even if it is a fake irs2092s chip. Such as cs3120 made in China.
There should be no problem with the effect. It's just a matter of price.
But the MOSFET has a great influence on the effect. It is easy to damage even after a long time. Be careful.
I designed my own irs2092 amp many moons ago.
It can be made to sound good with care.
Correct decoupling, tight layout and driving mosfets correctly.
I used big smoothing caps and on power down I would get a siren type noise then an almighty bang through the speaker !
I ask IR and they said smoothing caps were too big and to use a active reset circuit to turn off 2092 if VCC got low.
That fixed it.
I used irfp4227 mosfets and the amp would cut out at high power. The gate resistors were 10 ohm which was too high causing OC fault as they didnt switch on fast enough.
I added gate driver IC's and that fixed it. Although maybe jusr 4r7 gate resistors might have fixed it.
It can be made to sound good with care.
Correct decoupling, tight layout and driving mosfets correctly.
I used big smoothing caps and on power down I would get a siren type noise then an almighty bang through the speaker !
I ask IR and they said smoothing caps were too big and to use a active reset circuit to turn off 2092 if VCC got low.
That fixed it.
I used irfp4227 mosfets and the amp would cut out at high power. The gate resistors were 10 ohm which was too high causing OC fault as they didnt switch on fast enough.
I added gate driver IC's and that fixed it. Although maybe jusr 4r7 gate resistors might have fixed it.
I have to find a good power supply for LJM's IRS2092 boards. This time it will be easier if someone knows a good value choice online that has reputable parts and solid build. So far it seems like that everything that I have chosen and inquired about in this forum has not any assistance, and after I make a very uneducated guess and purchase, then knowledgeable folks chime in to tell about all the fakes and bad design and things. Anyway, most of what I had saved up for this project is now spent on these guesses. I have ordered Erics FFA amp and that should at least be one reliable choice. That's the last of the project savings fund. Anything else from hereon will have to come out of the family budget and will take time to aquire
Hi,
I'm sorry no one answered your posts. There is a simple cause: Your choosen products are not shown in other countrys.
After clicking into "these pages are not aviable in your region" for five times, I saw no reason to answer, as I did not know what you where writing about.
Maybe these Alibaba pages are only visible from Australia or China.
There is one general advice I can give you: As you have choosen the cheapest parts on Ali, let these parts burn in for a few days, connected to replaceable speakers. Then, if they do not blow, use all these modules with good active cooling only. Usualy only some single parts get too hot, like the driver IC, power Fet and the output inductors. Do not use small inclosures and fit large, slow running fans that run permanently, not only kick in when things are to hot already. Maybe two stage, if you use loud fans.
Do not use a fan out to drive a tube amp. These are not made for such a load. Anyway, "tube flavor" is a very subjective, questionable thing. You will get better results by not using tubes in the planned setup.
I'm sorry no one answered your posts. There is a simple cause: Your choosen products are not shown in other countrys.
After clicking into "these pages are not aviable in your region" for five times, I saw no reason to answer, as I did not know what you where writing about.
Maybe these Alibaba pages are only visible from Australia or China.
There is one general advice I can give you: As you have choosen the cheapest parts on Ali, let these parts burn in for a few days, connected to replaceable speakers. Then, if they do not blow, use all these modules with good active cooling only. Usualy only some single parts get too hot, like the driver IC, power Fet and the output inductors. Do not use small inclosures and fit large, slow running fans that run permanently, not only kick in when things are to hot already. Maybe two stage, if you use loud fans.
Do not use a fan out to drive a tube amp. These are not made for such a load. Anyway, "tube flavor" is a very subjective, questionable thing. You will get better results by not using tubes in the planned setup.
Thank you, I didn't realise about the page's thing. Will try to make the best of what's in shipping. Some cool experiments to be had anyway. Is the 500w + 500w amp visible to you? There were much cheaper options here, but I went with this to keep the PSU situation simple. If this turns out to be any good then together with Eric's amp my main and sub channels will be sorted. He also mentioned larger boards under development, so hopefully I can go away from Ali boards in the future. I don't know what to do with the fake 5x IRS2092 boards now, maybe I can return them
The rest of the tube gear will be fun to play with anyway and may turn out to work for me. Power supplies for so many different components in one chassis is proving to be a challenge
Yes,
I could see the 2x500, but don't know it. Usually these are a copy of a western design. Some industrial Amp meant for PA active subs or the like. If you are lucky, the original design was already cost optimized, so no Chinese "Developer" could thin out the design even more, use cheaper parts and save on necessary stages. If the Chinese producer did not use too fake, cheap, components, they may work just fine. The Chinese industry is build by criminals and relies on cheaper copies, faked parts, dark supply channels and bribery. There is no state quality control that can be trusted. I doubt a Chinese electronics company can be sure to build a complex product and be sure to use 100% parts that are as specified, while still making money.
See, a country where people pump oil out of the sewage system and sell it as frying oil to restaurants, hospitals, schools and kindergartens, you can see how rotten their general moral and legal system is. They do not care to sell fake parts to anyone, imagine a Chinese build airplane...
So be a bit careful with these modules you bought. You are not Apple and can not test any part from China you use.
Do not build all your components into one housing and be sure to use metal on the outside, not wood or plastic as often seen. You want an amp, not an arsonist in your house. This is for the 2x500. Do anything clean, save, solid, well dimension ed and without hum. May be difficult enough for a newbie. Do not add any kinky things. If you end up with a closed, well working amp in a case, be happy.
If you encounter problems, post here, with clean, detailed pictures and precise descriptions. You will find all the help you need. Usually not from the friendly Chinese sellers of amps. They vanish when problems arise like shadows in the sun. They are well known here.
These small amps are another stage, but may work fine. If you treat them as I proposed, with enough cooling and the lowest advised voltage. I would build a stereo pair on the fly and test it with your music in A-B test. They may sound just fine, are usually just lacking protection and are dimension ed at the lowest possible level.
Then, if you feel it worth the effort, build a 5-channel amp in a single case. No kinky add on's!
Otherwise, take them apart, make good pictures and description and sell them on eBay as usual.
You are making the typical mistake of people that are too self confident in what they do and underestimate the skills and knowledge necessary to build electronics from singel modules. If you started with a simple stereo or sub woofer amp, you could learn in a relaxed way, but you decided to build a huge system without having a clue on the basics, spend a lot of money and are under the pressure to get it working. No good start for a new hobby.
As an apprentice in wood working you do not start with the largest, baddest saw on the first day, or you will loose some fingers.
Now do a transfer to amp building and your starting point.
Again, post pictures, this will generate interest to help you. No one gets payed here for helping you, People here may not have the time to search for your problems, so make it easy for them and give information.
Reading a lot of threads would help a lot, probably some one already used your modules (amp gallery).
Hope that helps!
I could see the 2x500, but don't know it. Usually these are a copy of a western design. Some industrial Amp meant for PA active subs or the like. If you are lucky, the original design was already cost optimized, so no Chinese "Developer" could thin out the design even more, use cheaper parts and save on necessary stages. If the Chinese producer did not use too fake, cheap, components, they may work just fine. The Chinese industry is build by criminals and relies on cheaper copies, faked parts, dark supply channels and bribery. There is no state quality control that can be trusted. I doubt a Chinese electronics company can be sure to build a complex product and be sure to use 100% parts that are as specified, while still making money.
See, a country where people pump oil out of the sewage system and sell it as frying oil to restaurants, hospitals, schools and kindergartens, you can see how rotten their general moral and legal system is. They do not care to sell fake parts to anyone, imagine a Chinese build airplane...
So be a bit careful with these modules you bought. You are not Apple and can not test any part from China you use.
Do not build all your components into one housing and be sure to use metal on the outside, not wood or plastic as often seen. You want an amp, not an arsonist in your house. This is for the 2x500. Do anything clean, save, solid, well dimension ed and without hum. May be difficult enough for a newbie. Do not add any kinky things. If you end up with a closed, well working amp in a case, be happy.
If you encounter problems, post here, with clean, detailed pictures and precise descriptions. You will find all the help you need. Usually not from the friendly Chinese sellers of amps. They vanish when problems arise like shadows in the sun. They are well known here.
These small amps are another stage, but may work fine. If you treat them as I proposed, with enough cooling and the lowest advised voltage. I would build a stereo pair on the fly and test it with your music in A-B test. They may sound just fine, are usually just lacking protection and are dimension ed at the lowest possible level.
Then, if you feel it worth the effort, build a 5-channel amp in a single case. No kinky add on's!
Otherwise, take them apart, make good pictures and description and sell them on eBay as usual.
You are making the typical mistake of people that are too self confident in what they do and underestimate the skills and knowledge necessary to build electronics from singel modules. If you started with a simple stereo or sub woofer amp, you could learn in a relaxed way, but you decided to build a huge system without having a clue on the basics, spend a lot of money and are under the pressure to get it working. No good start for a new hobby.
As an apprentice in wood working you do not start with the largest, baddest saw on the first day, or you will loose some fingers.
Now do a transfer to amp building and your starting point.
Again, post pictures, this will generate interest to help you. No one gets payed here for helping you, People here may not have the time to search for your problems, so make it easy for them and give information.
Reading a lot of threads would help a lot, probably some one already used your modules (amp gallery).
Hope that helps!
Previous project
I completed this one recently. Turned out with a gorgeous native tone...makes the bass sound like Robbie's from Sweetie come brush me
Bass Amp
Hand built using the most basic of tools and materials in a remote location
Boat build
Done a lot of Subs and PAs back in the 90s using Jaycar electronics boards
Back in 1994, I made these neons
I completed this one recently. Turned out with a gorgeous native tone...makes the bass sound like Robbie's from Sweetie come brush me
Bass Amp
Hand built using the most basic of tools and materials in a remote location
Boat build
Done a lot of Subs and PAs back in the 90s using Jaycar electronics boards
Back in 1994, I made these neons
You can buy fake goods anywhere.
This is independent of the address. It still depends on the price. And design. Material Science.
If you only buy the cheapest products. There's no way to be sure.
In fact, you can buy high-quality products in China, but they are not particularly cheap.
Decades ago. Made in Germany and made in Japan. It is also synonymous with inferior quality.
In fact, all the products I use now. They are all made in China.
Including cars and televisions. mobile phone. Most of them have been used for more than 10 years. And has never failed.
But what I bought were high-end models. They sell for more than Japanese products.
China ? buy cheap, buy twice.
I get pcb's from China with no problems.
I bought 4 Chinese power supplies and not one lasted a week.
I bought 4 Chinese power supplies from RS Components and never had a problem.
I guess thats down to RS strict quality control.
I have bought Chinese transistors and they had very low breakdown voltages compared to spec of originals.
I bought some nail scissors that wouldnt even cut paper.
I wanted some AD9201 IC's. £15+vat in UK. £1 at Ali Express and they all worked fine.
I get pcb's from China with no problems.
I bought 4 Chinese power supplies and not one lasted a week.
I bought 4 Chinese power supplies from RS Components and never had a problem.
I guess thats down to RS strict quality control.
I have bought Chinese transistors and they had very low breakdown voltages compared to spec of originals.
I bought some nail scissors that wouldnt even cut paper.
I wanted some AD9201 IC's. £15+vat in UK. £1 at Ali Express and they all worked fine.
You're right. There are many fake things in China. But they are all very cheap.
This is far below the normal price. Don't covet cheap.
China has many high-quality products. The world is the same.